Marzocchi shiver 48 shims stack...need help !

Hi guys...just a quick introduction of myself then the question...I'm Max from Rome, Italy, love enduro and I have this new Marzocchi shiver 48 absolutely too stiff for enduro. I think this fork it's really well made, a sort of Kayaba, but need help with the shims stack. I just change the main spring, original was 5.0 now is 4.6, and oil but it doesn't works. It's really hard to drive on the rocks..the front tyre just jumps on the side and my arms are really suffering. Now the problem it's that I have good skill in mechanic but nothing on hydraulic tuning so I need your help. You will see now the actual shims configuration and I would like to have some help from you guys. That's the configuration:


A : 11 2.45

B: 11 0.2

C: 11 0.2

D: 14 0.15

E: 17 0.1

F: 20 0.1

G: 20 0.1

H: 20 0.1

I: 12 0.15

then piston

L: 18 0.15

M: 16 0.15

N: 15 0.15

O: 11 0.20

P: 20 0.10

Q: 20 0.10

R: 20 0.10

S: 12 0.15


A: 32 0.30

then piston

B: 28 0.10

C: 12 0.10

D: 32 0.15

E: 32 0.15

F: 32 0.15

G: 14 0.1

H: 24 0.1

I: 22 0.1

L: 20 0.1

M: 18 0.1

N: 11 0.2

I don't know the top little spring rate but the diameter of the iron is 4.00 mm....I also attach a couple of pics to explain better the configuration.

so guys thanks for your help...





I dont like the stiff springs which zokki uses on the mid.

I would try to get a softer spring, I used the showa spring on zokki 45 forks. This one looks quite higher.

Anyway, the setup is strange as zokki always is.

It would be nice to know the float of the midvalve. Thats the amount which the shims can lift before they start to bend. You can either calculate or use a feeler gauge to measure it.

Does the 28mm faceshim on the basevalve cover the ports of the piston?

Throw the zokes away and get some KYB's...

the setup it's really strange...u right Vietze !!! The 28 shim doesn't covers exactly...I think for a faster start but not so expert to bet on !!! Please lemme know more about the float of the midvalve..are u referring to the top part of the piston or to the spring side ???

thanks for help...

so...any new idea ???? :p

Throw the zokes away and get some KYB's...

bleh why would you do that for enduro use

bleh why would you do that for enduro use

Why wouldn't you? We did it with great results on a 11' GG 250 but it only had 45mm zokes stock.

no thanks, I love my 45mm zokes, once they are revalved

midvalve float:

its the spring side of the piston.

You have to assemble the piston and you will notice that the shimstack can move a certain distance. Thats the float.

Could you do a picture of the basevalve piston which shows the ports?

What diameter is the pistonrod?

Does the 18.15 rebound faceshim cover the ports?

Is there a bleedhole in the rebound piston? If yes, what size?

will measure and will post all details today............thanks a lot Vietze !!!!

ciao max

by the way can I measure the float as I disassemble the piston from the fork ??? I mean with a valve feeler gauge ???


Its better to have the valving assembly tightened with the nut to make the float measurement.



11 0.20

11 0.20

14 0.15

17 0.10

20 0.10

20 0.10

20 0.10

12 0.15


12 0.15

20 0.10

20 0.10

20 0.10

20 0.10

11 0.20

11 0.20

15 0.15

16 0.15

18 0.15


32 0.30 (check plate)

28 0.10

12 0.10

32 0.15

32 0.15

32 0.15

14 0.10

24 0.10

22 0.10

20 0.10

18 0.10

11 0.20

11 0.20

Actually looks like there's no float according the gauge even if there's a shim 20x0.15 before the big 20x0.10 shim that covers the face of the piston...maybe it deflects and looks like there's no gap. There's no bleeding hole in the piston and the diameter road is 12mm.

Attached a pics of the basevalve piston that shows the ports.


Sorry...I made a misunderstanding for the float...will remeasure and post later...Vietze can u make a draw of the float so I can measure it correctly ???

thanks... :rolleyes:

Edited by contemax

Just an idea. I reckon it's blowing through the stroke and smashing into the mid.

So on the compression valve, maybe try something a little more conventional.















That is a nasty mid. I'd be tempted to create some float and lose 2 of the 20 and 1 of the 11. It's like the 15, 18 and 16 are there just to take up space.

I think this is not real mid at all as zokki uses this design in all forks so far...

Thats why I want to know the float.

But I also think that its blowing through. The reasons are the two 12.15 bleedshims on both sides of the reb piston. The base has bleed, which is a good thing for the kind of riding Max does. But when the stack deflects more it hits a wall of damping...

The reb is also very "easy minded"...

Hard to get it right on the first revalve.

Many people like the calculate the float distance but since the zokki usually doenst use a collar it can get pretty difficult.

Here is a pic I found on the forum:

Just see what thickness of feeler gauge fits between the piston face and the faceshim.

I guess its around 1mm-1.5mm :-D

I have measured something :banghead: ...could it be 0.40 mm ???? Basically I have measured the gap beetwen the last shim 18x0.15 and the base where it lands !!! It is correct ???



P.S. Sorry guys to trouble you but actually looks like this is the only forum in which I can be helped....nothing here in italy and I'm really tired to spend 400 dollars everytime I get a new bike to tune the fork and also most of the time I'm not satisfied !!!!! And a lt of people like me.....

Doublecheck your measurement.

You can also insert the gauge between two 20.1 shims. You have to push the shims/spring down till it hits the bigger diameter of the valving holder.

Zucco Suspension is down there in the middle of Italy. He is also on the forum and one of the best tuners I know.

is the float A or B ??? If A there is no gap beetwen the shim and the face of the piston....B is 0.4


ok it should be A holding down the spring...I go to measure...will be back in a while....

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