OK, since we get 5-10 new threads every week on "What oil should I use" or "What Mixture should I run". Well, here's the general consensus. There's a right way and a wrong way...all based on the individual you're talking to. So, yes, it's an OPINION. I'm not going to post my personal usage or results because they are mine and others may not agree. So, I'm not here to debate, just state the facts. Oil debates explained; Engine: Some say Dino oil (conventional) is better or just as good as synthetic. Synthetic is a waste of money. I like this or I like that, etc. etc. So, in proven tests & results, Synthetic is far superior to dino oils. Synthetics are less prone to fouling plugs even when a richer mixture is run, lubricate 100x better, prolong the life of internal parts & burn much cleaner. On that note, a dino oil should never be run leaner the 36:1. Synthetics have been known to run as high as 200:1 with proper engine building and proper fuels used. Your typical ratio for a synthetic will be 50:1. For dino oils, 32:1. Awhile back, a very knowledgeable and respected member (Chokey) on here, did a small write-up in a thread that explained how much oil your internal parts actually see when based on certain mix ratios. In endstate, it was very, very little, even at 32:1. It was very informative and accurate. So, a good oil is a must if you want an engine to last more than 5 hours. Spooge & Mixture: Spooge has Nothing to do with your mix ratio! Unless you mix at 10:1 and some how it manages to run like that. Spooge is a jetting issue! Fuels: Mixtures willalso vary based on what type of fuel you use. Higher octane fuels are less prone to detonation and also have a better cooling effect on the piston that helps in the lubrication of the topend. Heat creates a higher chance of friction because it's burning off the oil, then friction creates more heat which causes wear and eventual failure. Also remember all your typical "Pump" fuels have 10% Ethanol, or more. In a general sense, you can say water. Basically not good!!! [richer jetting is required for high octane fuels] Transmission oils: This is where the biggest debate is. Here's what you generally hear, read, etc. ATF Type F, Rotella T, Amsoil, Walmart 10-40, yada-yada-yada. Everyone has their own opinions. Some swear by one where others totally disagree. Some general insight, All Euro bike companies (who are still running strong with 2 strokes) recommend Motorex oils. FYI, Motorex "ATF Super" is identical to ATF. The thing to remember is you transmission is no different internally than an automatic tranmission in a car. I has gears & clutch plates. So you should see where I'm getting at. Just know that Dex III / Mercon andDex VI have many more detergents in them that is really not intended for a bikes clutches. So the Type F dates back into the 1960's and is a great oil for a 2T application. As is any quality 10-40. NOT synthetic oils though. It needs to be a conventional oil. Sythetics are made to reduce friction. Your clutch requires friction to operate. On a side note*** Please do not ask, "how much oil does my bike take?" It's on your bike. Somewhere on the right sidecase will be a casting that will refer to something like .850L or 850ml. What ever it says, that's what it holds. If you're wandering how to measure out the corrcect amount, well, do you know that thing you used to measure the oil for your fuel mixture, it probably has ml measurements on it too. The typical "Ratio-rite" cup measure 500ml. So, pour in the 500, the fill cup to 350 and, voila', 850ml (referencing a KX250). Just clean it out well before you put 2T oil back in it.