Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Thinking of 250x for dualsport, Q's..

Recommended Posts

Thinking of getting a 250x for dualsport use. I've rode a xr250 dualsport a bunch and it can barely go 60 it seems. Will use this bike on some hardcore singletrack, building trail and dualsport rides that are mainly dirt roads so not much real road riding, 10 to 20 miles here and there on pavement.. I'd be buying a older model, staying under $2500. I've thought about a 450x but don't want the weight for the trail and they seem to cost about 1k more then the 250's. It won't see a lot of use as I have a 250 and 450 that I race so this would be a third bike for evening rips, camping and grocery getting. I'm also considering a drz400 but I think the 250x would be a better bike for riding trail. I wouldn't be against maybe doing a harescramble or two on it.

How do these bikes do with a plate?

Can they do hwy speed with the stock gearing?

Can they do slow trail work without boiling?

Fuel range on stock tank?

Are they electric start?

Can I convert the motor to R compents without hurting reliability?

Edited by TommyB 754

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thinking of getting a 250x for dualsport use. I've rode a xr250 dualsport a bunch and it can barely go 60 it seems. Will use this bike on some hardcore singletrack, building trail and dualsport rides that are mainly dirt roads so not much real road riding, 10 to 20 miles here and there on pavement.. I'd be buying a older model, staying under $2500. I've thought about a 450x but don't want the weight for the trail and they seem to cost about 1k more then the 250's. It won't see a lot of use as I have a 250 and 450 that I race so this would be a third bike for evening rips, camping and grocery getting. I'm also considering a drz400 but I think the 250x would be a better bike for riding trail. I wouldn't be against maybe doing a harescramble or two on it.

How do these bikes do with a plate?

Can they do hwy speed with the stock gearing?

Can they do slow trail work without boiling?

Fuel range on stock tank?

Are they electric start?

Can I convert the motor to R compents without hurting reliability?

My brother Bob and I each bought a new 2005 CRF250x back in August, 2005. I retired from my job at the end of that month, and licensed my 250x in November, 2005. Paperwork went right thru immediately, and I was issued a plate on the spot. (DMV didn't even want to check my bike for street-legal stuff, said it was "between you and the police to make sure it was legal).

Picture124.jpg

Picture256.jpg

Poor brother Bob. He waited until March, 2006 to try to license his 250x, and was denied due to the Oregon law change Jan. 1, 2006 that requires the bike owner to sign a form saying the bike has been tested and complies with DEQ emission standards, before a plate can be issued (a federal felony if proven you've lied on the form). He'd already added all the street-legal stuff to his bike, and tried everything he could to get it plated, with no luck. His bike still only has less than 500 miles total, and is still like new. My 250x has 14,000+ miles (I ride it an average 2000 miles a year), and is getting pretty beat up from alot of use, but still runs good. Luckily, my 250x has been "grandfathered in", and has continued to be re-tagged every two years, and is still licensed.

Having said all that, I'll answer your questions as if you can get lucky and somehow get past the red tape and plate one...

My 2005 CRF250x has been most excellent with it's plate.

I do most of my 250x riding off-road, so I have the stock gearing on my bike now, and it likes to cruise down the hwy at 55 mph. I do sometime cruise at 60 mph, and have done some freeway riding at 65 mph with the stock gearing, but not alot of that, lately. When i first plated it, I geared it up with a 14/49 gearing, and could cruise all day at 75 mph, and it hit the rev limiter at 82 mph. That was sweet gearing for the road, but not so much for the trail, with a stock motor.

The 250x can do alot of slow trail riding as it has an overflow tank that catches any spewage, and it gets sucked back into the radiators when it cools back down. In all the years I've been riding my 250x, I haven't lost one bit of coolant yet (and it still has all the original coolant in it now).

I get about a hundred miles per tank, on average.

Yes, the 250x is electric start, and mine has been flawless, so far. I did go thru about a battery per year, until this year when I got a lithium battery for it.

Many people have modified their 250x to 250R specs, but mine is still stock. I also have a 2006 250R. Both bikes have their own place in my heart. I think if you'd modify a 250x for more power, it would stress it a little more, reducing reliability, but have no personal experience with that.

Randy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The 450x is a featherweight compared to a DRZ and twice the bike so I am not sure why you are discounting it yet still considering a DRZ for "hard core single track". I sold my DRZ and moved to a 250x and plan to put a dual sport kit on it eventually. The DRZ is an ideal bike for 50/50 use but it's weight really hinders your ability and endurance on hard single track and is miles away from the 250x or 450x capability. It is a great paved and gravel road cruiser though and capable enough to let you hit anything you want. It is also very low maintenance compared to the CRF if that makes any difference to you.

My 250x with stock gearing hits 70 mph but not comfortably. With my desert gearing 14/49 I can push it to 80 mph. The 250x really isn't a road cruiser but if 80/20 is what you are looking for it will get it done for the 20% and pay you back big time on the 80%. I also don't feel any real power loss going from the DRZ to the 250x. That may be partly due to the huge weight loss but the 250x motor puts out a lot more hp per cc than the DRZ.

Go with a CRF and don't look back. PS: get a Rekluse clutch and you can get away with a little taller gearing in the tight stuff but regardless, get an extra sprocket option or two so you can dial it in to the type of riding you plan to do that day. I run my desert gearing (14/49) in single track when I am too lazy to switch it and it does fine but stock is much better for the tight stuff but again, the Rekluse gives you a big advantage.

On my DRZ I could get 80 to 100 miles per tank offroad. My 250x is closer to 60 to 80 miles of hard use.

As far as R mods someone else will have to chime in on that. I have done the common mods on the x but not added any R components yet.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replys guys. Soon as my spare car sells I think I'm going to buy one. The ability to cruise at 65mph is just fine. Where I live in Oregon we do not have to go through DEQ.

Stator rewinds, who does it cheapest or is it best to buy a different stator? Need atleast 100watts

What is the suspension like? What springs does it come with? I'm assuming its valved really soft also.

Edited by TommyB 754

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As far as I know, living in an area where vehicles have to comply with DEQ testing doesn't have anything to do with the 2006 law that requires the bike to have been tested for federal emission compliance before they can be licensed. Better check with your local DMV office before buying that bike, if you NEED it to be plated...

Trail Tech can rewind your stator.

The CRF250x is suspended relatively soft. Perfect for most trail and street use. Can handle anything but full motocross.

Randy

Edited by CRF2eR

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I know of many plated X's here, all were plated after 2006. I've even gone to DMV and been told I couldn't plate a bike before and drove directly to another dmv and walked out with a plate, it really depends on the dmv agent. The 250x from what I've read in the magazines is 100% deq legal stock? So I'm not sweating it and if for some reason I can't plate it I'll just sell it no biggie. But yes, plate is a must it's the main reason I want one because I already have two bikes that sole duties are offroad and mx.

Do you know how much wattage you get from a TT rewind?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've owned and '06 for about four years now. I've been happy with it for dual sport, with most of that being trail.

Figure on about 40mpg. Some years it had 2.6 gallong tank, others year just 1.9. So, you will have either 105 or 75 mile range.

If you are buying used, be aware the weakest point on the 250X is the valves. Specifically the titanium intake valves that can easily get out of spec. Many owners (me too) have had them replaced with stainless steel which makes it a much more reliable bike.

Below is a link with lots of info on the bike

http://www.rickramsey.net/CRF250X.htm

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I got my '04 to do the 80% dirt 20% street,but had to have work on my starter and found out I need engine work so I'm kinda stalled out(no pun intended)right now deciding what to do.

You seem to be getting pretty positive responses,I kept getting told its not the bike to DS.But like you I dont plan on going more than 5-10 miles on surface streets.

Only good thing about it is,I've had a bunch of personal/health issues come up and I just never had the time to get it all legalled.If I would have,the engine would be complete toast.

Hopefully you can get a 250x up and DS w/ minimal problems.

My street kit is a TUSK(kinda cheap,but gets you legal),it just plugs directly to the battery.Super easy,and no stator rewind is needed.If your riding dirt,just turn it off.Probably a good idea to keep it on a battery tender tho.Has the brake light,hydrolic brake switch,turn signals,relay,horn,mirror,controls and a super easy wiring harness everything plugs into that goes directly to the battery.

Goodluck and keep us posted if you go thru w/ it.

Edited by Bonefrost

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another thing is you need to wire in a key because these bikes have no on/off switch.The light kit will,but the bike will still start.

I plan on wiring in a key before the start button and a hidden toggle,so if they break the key,or hot wire it,they'll be looking forever to find the on/off hidden toggle hillbilly lo-jack.Plus I plan on getting a decent lock as 2 dudes could easily throw the bike in a truck/van and be gone in 10sec.

But as said its for light transpo close to home,it would never be sitting in a parking lot somewhere for 8hrs.Still gonna do all that stuff tho,it only takes a few seconds.I learned my lesson w/ my nice BMX bike as a kid not locking it.

I still think it'd be rad to have a street legal CRF250X.Seen a couple done up supermoto style and those are wayyyy cool.

I bought mine specificlly to street legal,but have to address the engine problems first.

Edited by Bonefrost

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

where did you get your battery ? how much was it ? Does it charge in the bike while running ?

I bought it at a Honda dealer in Ukiah, CA, while visiting inlaws there. It's a shorai lithium, and weighs less than a pound. Yes, it does charge while riding. Spins the motor over way faster than the original lead-acid battery too. Less weight and more power, a win-win. Cost about $125, I think.

Randy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've got a sweet set up and some very important info on the CRF- X's and their dual sport set-up. I will leave you a response I sent to another inquirer and the link to some pics.   I've been getting several responses each week about my CRF 250X Light Kit.  I've put together a response and here it is: I will send you the link below to where you can open a file and download all the pics.  Used the Tusk Kit ($160) on the internet, saw the pics when I googled "Thumperjockey". Rocky Mountain ATV web sill has the Kit. Good Kit with good instuctions.  Trail Tech Speedo was my own idea ($97) and also easy to do. Has speed, time, ODO, Head temp gauge...Not bad!!  Some of the pics show the tail light on then w/ the brake light.  I have another set of rims (stock)  that have my MX tires and a different chain (RK 520) to make this conversion a 30 min switch-out from desert to road or back.  I have a 13 tooth primary and a 46 tooth rear.  Kenda Tire's (so so) see pics. Used a 510 rear tire to keep the rev's down at 55mph.   I teach automotive technology (Automotive Engineering Degree, really no big deal) but I see some real strange ideas tossed around the internet,  and have way too much to talk about.  Jeff I'm going to give you my 10 cents here so hang in there. I am posting this to share with those who really like their CRF's. I suppose you might be one of them.  Many guys grenade their CRFX's when converted to the road. Here some very important things that will give you the greatest success doing this conversion.  Besides the fairly obvious in wiring this is your own project and takes about 4 hours to make it really clean and a few more (2hrs) to mount the Trail Tech. I bought a aftermarket CRFX rear fender to modify and make a clean look which came with the three wires necessary to include the stock light as a running and brake light. The LEDs are very bright and look awesome!

 
 One thing you should know is that if you do these changes for street use is: you might want to put in some slightly stiffer clutch springs in (15 min job) run a good 10/40 oil (non synthetic) in your clutch/bottom side (brake side of cases) and use the best possible oil in the top end (shifter side of cases),  full synthetic with a moly additive and even a zinc compound too.  Zinc is used in race applications only and is a awesome lubricant used for flat tappet automotive apps and all levels of racing. Why do motor oils not use zinc anymore?  It will shorten the life of Cats in the post 1972+ cars so away it went.  All the good stuff I use is still available at O'Reilly's.  Here is my magic formula for my CRF250X.  (Converted to dual use in 6/2013)     CRF's 250X    Top End side:  Lucas Zinc Break-in Oil Additive TB Zinc Plus 16oz ($18)  Add................... . 2oz.
Lucas Oil Stabilizer $$ ?...............................................................................   4oz.
Valvoline Full Syn  10/30w or Castrol Syntec 10/40w....................................10oz.
Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil 50w     (great for High RPM's non foaming)............10oz.
 
TOTAL ........................26oz  
 
With filter Change on the 250X:   26oz will bring the oil  3/4 of the way up between the fill marks on the dip stick.
                           Note: All fluid changes should be checked with bike in the vertical position
 
NOTE:  CRF's have a split crankcase which is different than most every other motor cycle made, even other Hondas.  This split makes for a smaller capacity in each chamber, thus more sensitive care necessary for CRF's.
 
The oil for the clutch side is not so critical as long as you don't use Synthetics. See owner's manual.  
 
Jeff,  If you want to talk, feel free to call me at 760 489-7003
I will be out of town and unavailable from now till 5/8,  but Thurs on is good!
 
This is my first time using this link below...please let me know (email) if you were able to open up the link w/ pics!!!!!
 
 
If you want to have a discussion about getting these street legal you will have to call me.
 
 

   

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks

Good info on oil blending.

 

I wouldn't risk using any car oil in the clutch/tranny side, now most have additives for fuel efficiiency that can cause clutch slippage, been there done that on other Honda clutches.  Motorcycle or other oils are much safer.  Honda does however recommend a synthetic gear oil for the Montesa clutches, which use CR250R clutch plates.  The oil is expensive and difficult to find in the US so I switched to Valvoline synthetic Dextron VI ATF, just slightly thicker than the ELF oil and much smoother clutch action, and no slip.  ATF is a gear oil for wet clutches.

 

I have a plated 250X running 14/48 gearing to make road work a little easier on the engine revs, but makes first gear almost like second on the trails.  Another thread here is running 14/40 gearing and claims plenty of power. But as others have said if you go too far away from stock gearing off road ability suffers. I can regear close to stock by using a 13 counter shaft sprocket, or put on the  53T rear spocket.

Edited by Chuck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×