shock spring cross over

I searched the pinned crossover thread but didnt find any mention of the shock spring, it must share its size with another dirtbike, anyone got an easy answer,

Have a few handling issues at slow speed stuf, 2nd 3rd gear on/off power tecnical riding & the only thing i can put it down to is the bike is riding low on the rear causing the front to be too light and lifting out of ruts etc.

As there is no spring rate guide i wanted to try out a few heavier springs before buying one.

Or of course if anyone has a few suggestions.

Ta!

2013 250 rr.

Reduce the sag 10-15mm? Turning up your low speed compression? Speed up the rebound?

Slow the rebound on the forks keeping the fork lower in the stroke?

Moving the forks up in the clamps?

Edited by weantright

I dont think i can reduce the sag any more, its at 95 mm race sag & 20 mm static, those numbers are low al lready

The bike felt too soft in its original state so i started clicking, currently at

fork c 10

fork r 10

shock ls 12

shock hs 20

shock r 16

tried it last weekend on faster smother trails and it was fine, raced the weekend in a 40 mile lap / rut and it was poor, the rear jumped around entering smooth corners, the front was a bus to turn, in 2nd gear easy on the power corners the front was trying to ride up and out of the ruts.. duno now, my head is fried.

Oh and shook its head over crests on acceleration..

If you can't get correct sag numbers with 10 to 15mm of preload on the rear spring, change it out. At 175lbs without gear I had to put a 5.2 out the back with 12mm preload and .40 in the front.

They seem to be over sprung in the front and under sprung in the rear. With the stock .42 I could only get 50mm of front sag.

It is very hard to get an accurate fork sag reading. What you did is the same as what I posted, raising the rear and lowering the front. He can adjust the settings while he finds another spring (s).

Drop the rear sag to 85-90mm, 1/4 turn slower on rebound and see what happens. Also when the rear is kicking up on low speeds (2nd gear) tells me you need a bit more low speed compression. Remember to do one of these adjustments at a time. Report back.

I have nearly 25mm of preload on the spring, it wont actualy close any further so further reducing the race sag cant be done, the factory said the standard spring would be fine for a 82kg rider (me) but that just cant be right.

@hammer, has the 5.2 cured any issue you were having? I am 180lb with gear on so we would be similar weights.

If i lower the front of the bike (raise the clamps) wont that promote more headshake?

Yes in most cases you will have more headshake. Re-mount your front wheel, forks and checking the alignment between clamps/wheel. Fork action (sticking) is reduced causing headshake when these parts are out of alignment. Do you know how to correctly set the front wheel?

Yes in most cases you will have more headshake. Re-mount your front wheel, forks and checking the alignment between clamps/wheel. Fork action (sticking) is reduced causing headshake when these parts are out of alignment. Do you know how to correctly set the front wheel?

Everything is 100% straight & inline, yep, I know how to correctly fit the front wheel.

It has to be the shock spring, ill whip mine out and measure it up, there has to be a cross over part from another more common bike. i can then get a 5.2 & check if its my snake oil!

Husqvarna uses that same shock pre 2010 on several TE models (2010 TE310, 2008-2009 TE250, 2009-2010 TE450/511).

It is very hard to get an accurate fork sag reading. What you did is the same as what I posted, raising the rear and lowering the front.(s).

It is no less accurate than the rear and cranking down a spring to get less rider sag is not even close to the same thing as installing the correct springs for your weight.

@hammer, has the 5.2 cured any issue you were having? I am 180lb with gear on so we would be similar weights.

Yes. You have to get both ends to work together. Unlike a lot of bikes I have set up this Beta seems almost over sensitive to suspension changes so it is important to get it correct. Once you get it right it pays off big.

If it works for you great, I just never seen a consistent fork sag measurements. Playing with the clickers and adjusting the rear sag is free and can be done now.

Stock springs are

.42, 175-190lbs forks

4.8, 170-185lbs rear

Go to the BYOB and in the suspension option click on the springs for recommended rider weights.

Edited by weantright

I dont think i can reduce the sag any more, its at 95 mm race sag & 20 mm static, those numbers are low al lready

The bike felt too soft in its original state so i started clicking, currently at

fork c 10

fork r 10

shock ls 12

shock hs 20

shock r 16

tried it last weekend on faster smother trails and it was fine, raced the weekend in a 40 mile lap / rut and it was poor, the rear jumped around entering smooth corners, the front was a bus to turn, in 2nd gear easy on the power corners the front was trying to ride up and out of the ruts.. duno now, my head is fried.

Oh and shook its head over crests on acceleration..

That kind of setup will give the bike a 'dead' feeling. Some like that (the bike doesn't moves around), others don't (like me) since there is no feedback.

This is why it is ok at higher speeds but a handfull on slower (and perhaps choppy) parts.

In my opinion, you should take out both comp and reb damping at the front (most probably you have lots of understeer) and go back close to std settings.

Maybe you need .44s in the front but what I would suggest is to put some fresh oil (definitely NOT Silkolene) with a viscosity of around 15cSt and maybe increase oil level gradually (10mm at a time).

Definitely I disagree with hammer regarding the balance. .42 is the norm for a bike of such weight but it seems that some times miss the fact that SACHS suspenders need more time to break in and start to work more freely (in contrast with current KTM-manufactured WPs).

I think that you should do more precise than drastic changes because you upset a quite balanced chassis.

Are you sure .44?? This would rake the bike more and create deflection and climb out in corners. Headshake will be less.

That kind of setup will give the bike a 'dead' feeling. Some like that (the bike doesn't moves around), others don't (like me) since there is no feedback.

This is why it is ok at higher speeds but a handfull on slower (and perhaps choppy) parts.

In my opinion, you should take out both comp and reb damping at the front (most probably you have lots of understeer) and go back close to std settings.

Maybe you need .44s in the front but what I would suggest is to put some fresh oil (definitely NOT Silkolene) with a viscosity of around 15cSt and maybe increase oil level gradually (10mm at a time).

Definitely I disagree with hammer regarding the balance. .42 is the norm for a bike of such weight but it seems that some times miss the fact that SACHS suspenders need more time to break in and start to work more freely (in contrast with current KTM-manufactured WPs).

I think that you should do more precise than drastic changes because you upset a quite balanced chassis.

He is complaining of understeer and you are going to have him put heavier springs in the front witch in turn will have the fork sitting higher in the stroke. Do you really think that is going to solve an understeering problem?

He is complaining of understeer and you are going to have him put heavier springs in the front witch in turn will have the fork sitting higher in the stroke. Do you really think that is going to solve an understeering problem?

If you believe that thats the summary of what I wrote, then yes.

That kind of setup will give the bike a 'dead' feeling. Some like that (the bike doesn't moves around), others don't (like me) since there is no feedback.

This is why it is ok at higher speeds but a handfull on slower (and perhaps choppy) parts.

In my opinion, you should take out both comp and reb damping at the front (most probably you have lots of understeer) and go back close to std settings.

Maybe you need .44s in the front but what I would suggest is to put some fresh oil (definitely NOT Silkolene) with a viscosity of around 15cSt and maybe increase oil level gradually (10mm at a time).

Definitely I disagree with hammer regarding the balance. .42 is the norm for a bike of such weight but it seems that some times miss the fact that SACHS suspenders need more time to break in and start to work more freely (in contrast with current KTM-manufactured WPs).

I think that you should do more precise than drastic changes because you upset a quite balanced chassis.

You have hit the nail on the head with the description "bike will feel dead" and there is loads of understeer, the thing turns like a bus.

I have just had it apart in the garage and back together- preloaded spring is now 250mm and there is 35mm static & i have 110mm race, I have set the clickers back to stock and ill try again the weekend.

Ijust checked out the BYOB site, i didnt realise there was so much scope!

Went from 95mm race sag to 110? What are you thinking will change with the bike?

You can increase rear sag a little (closer to 30-105) to help rear squat when coming out of 2nd (and maybe 3rd gear turns) hard on the gas.

I had this problem on wet (but hard) ruts but I guess I am quite heavier at 107kg. Nevrtheless try to adjust rear end more with rebound than compression.

Some times you'll may notice that when increasing HS comp the rear tends to ride higher.

You have hit the nail on the head with the description "bike will feel dead" and there is loads of understeer, the thing turns like a bus.

I have just had it apart in the garage and back together- preloaded spring is now 250mm and there is 35mm static & i have 110mm race, I have set the clickers back to stock and ill try again the weekend.

Ijust checked out the BYOB site, i didnt realise there was so much scope!

And this says incorrect spring to me.

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