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Shorty Levers for XL600R or XR650L?

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I rode a bike once with shorty levers and I really liked them. I've been searching for some ever since but it doesn't look like anyone makes ones that work on the pigs. I'm willing to swap out the master cylinder from my XL6 if I find something that can work. Seen a couple threads on here from the past but don't lead anywhere but to cutting the stock levers short. ASV makes a nice universal set with a replacement clutch perch assembly but it doesn't look like the brake lever has a tab to activate the brake light switch. Anyone ever find a set that will work with the brake switch?

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No one makes shorty levers for the XRL that will trip the switch...........

The only way arround this is change the perches and put a bajo bolt type brake switch in at the master cylinder..

B

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Ive always been tempted to cut mine since I only use a few fingers.

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Bork, that's exactly what I did - like them a lot and the benefit is that when (if) you drop the bike the lever has less chance of being caught and bent.

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Bork, that's exactly what I did - like them a lot and the benefit is that when (if) you drop the bike the lever has less chance of being caught and bent.

Put some decent guards on and it should be virtually impossible to damage a lever. I have these on mine:

CYCRACRM.jpg

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Bork, that's exactly what I did - like them a lot and the benefit is that when (if) you drop the bike the lever has less chance of being caught and bent.

Thanks! Time to get cuttin! How short do you guys cut? My thinking is, if two fingers are used to pull(index&middle) the outer two fingers, block lever from touching grip. So I was thinking of cutting just outside of middle finger. Is this where you guys cut?

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Scot -if I wasn't such a cheapskate I would use those - as it is I'm an old age pensioner and the pension doesn't run to those and Jim Beam.....lol

Bork, trial and error - cut a little off, if its right then there you go - if not chop off a bit more - personal preference is the thing - what's right for you is the way to go

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I cut off about 3/4 of an inch inside of the rounded ball at the end. I'm running handguards too and the levers were too long to fit nicely inside the guards. I can still get 4 fingers on them if I need to, but I always ride with just 2 fingers on each lever at all times.

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Another note... If your brake levers are not adjustable, you can use XR600R levers that are adjustable. You have to remove a small "bump" on the inside of the lever. About five minutes with a dremel or hacksaw.

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I wish I could afford those nice busters also, but use the cheaper plastic acerbis with the metal mounts. They are surprisingly tough. And they aren't that cheap either, about $40. I also, wish I could afford the real nice ones with the fold out mirror !

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Another note... If your brake levers are not adjustable, you can use XR600R levers that are adjustable. You have to remove a small "bump" on the inside of the lever. About five minutes with a dremel or hacksaw.

Can you expand on the "bump" you have to remove? I have been wanting to get a adjustable front brake lever since I got the bike and just to be clear that adjustment, is it for the piston or the levers distance from the bar? I was under the assumption that it adjusted the piston.

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Can you expand on the "bump" you have to remove? I have been wanting to get a adjustable front brake lever since I got the bike and just to be clear that adjustment, is it for the piston or the levers distance from the bar? I was under the assumption that it adjusted the piston.

The adjustment is at the piston. The arrow is where the bit on the XR6R lever has to be removed.

1f532c11-81ec-4a36-99bf-3ec2b563dff2_zps11923ddb.jpg

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The adjustment is at the piston. The arrow is where the bit on the XR6R lever has to be removed.

Nice! :ride: thank you very much! looks like I am going to be doing some XR600R front brake lever shopping.

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Well, ThumpNRed I had a different experience with the XR600R lever,

 

this is just a side by side picture with the bump that needs to be removed on the XR600R lever next to the stock lever.:

IMG_0933.jpg

 

You can see the two different contact points: bolt on XR6 lever and masking tape on the stock lever.:

IMG_0990.jpg

 

The adjustable bolt pushes the rubber "curtain?" around the piston on compression and the bolt is just catching the edge of the piston.:

IMG_0967.jpg

IMG_0995.jpg

 

If you back the adjustable bolt out you can have it center on the piston a little better but then you have no adjustment.:

IMG_0998.jpg

 

I'm just going to throw the XR6 lever in my backpack as a spare lever in case of emergency and maybe catch a sale on some adjustable levers down the road?

 

I'm assuming that you are still using the stock XRL master cylinder? I was trying to remember If you are running upside down forks and maybe switched master cylinders to the brake system that came with the upside down forks?

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Mine does not hit the button on the master cylinder in the center, but it works fine. I am running USDs, but use the XRL master cylinder.

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All the Honda cylinders have 1/2" bores as far as I can tell and lever ratios seem to be better on the new stuff anyway. Just change to late CR/CRF master cyl & clutch perch and get one of the banjo brake line pressure switches to handle the brake light as brianhare suggested.  With those you have an assortment of modern shorties available and replacements aren't the issue old XR/XL levers, perches and masters can be. Original CR/CRF stuff can be found cheap and plentiful with all the upgrades riders do nowdays. No self respecting racer wants to be caught with stock parts.

Edited by valvesrule

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I took a honda switch from a 250l and pit it on my xr6. I jb welded a small metal tab that hung down to activate the switch. Just a finger dab, let it dry a bit before putting it on and just depress lever a bit, position the tab over the switch and close the lever on it. Make sure no jb weld oozes out and bonds everything together. The switch doesn't take much pressure to close so it wont brake off. I wired positive to my headlight and the switch interrupted the negative wire. Ill post pics tomorrow.

Oh and i had stock levers and wanted to put some acerbis guards on, i had to cut an inch or so off. I like it, just make sure you file it smooth or itll scrape knuckles

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