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XR250/400 Wiring help needed badly!

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Hey guys,

First of all, AWESOME site! I've spent way too much time on here lurking and getting ideas.

I'm obviously new to this forum and in need of some assistance. I've searched for hours over many days and I'm still relatively lost! I'm totally re-doing my 2003 XR400 from the ground up. So far, I'm in the process of a motard conversion using Katana wheels and I'm attempting to piece together my own street legal "dualsport kit". Most of the parts are either in my possession or are on their way, so simply buying a Tusk or Baja Designs kit is out of the question at this point. I decided to go rogue because I don't like the lighting that comes with the those kits. I’ve searched a TON in various forums and have found some good information, but none pertaining to my exact goal.

I basically want to have a keyed ignition (no starter, just a kill switch) that disables the AC spark to the plug, but also cuts power to the DC side of the bike that controls the LED lights. Is this possible?

That said, I have a 200w ElectroSport G442 stator that I want to split. 100w AC to a Polisport Halo H4 headlight and 100w DC to the LED turn signals, brake light, LED license plate light, and my Trail Tech Vapor.. I believe this setup is almost typical among the XR community, but these are the questions I have..

  1. My stator indicates that 2 wires supply 100w of DC power. Is this correct or am I reading the directions wrong? Does the DC current need to be regulated somehow before being wired to the LED turn signals? 100w seems like a lot of juice!
  2. Is it necessary to have a battery or capacitor in order for the LED’s to work or can they work using the DC power generated by the stator?
  3. I understand a 2-wire keyed kill switch (like the XR70 has) can be used to disable the bike, but what disables the battery? Can I use the same ignition or do I need something different? How can I use one key switch to cut AC and DC power from the battery?

I have a very basic wire diagram that I’m using as a guide if it helps. I apologize for the elementary looking drawing. I’m using my wife’s laptop and the new MS paint (absolute crap). Hell, if any of you can complete this diagram and it works, I’ll send you $10 via paypal! I may be over-thinking this so please correct me if I can go about this in an easier way.

Thank you!!!

Stator

stator_wiring.jpg

New_wiring.gif

New wiring.gif

stator wiring.jpg

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All alternators produce AC, if DC is needed the AC goes thru a rectifier resulting in pulsing DC. A regulator limits the peak voltage and battery or capacitor smooths out the pulses. Honda like to use AC for lights to avoid the power loss of a rectifier, so many of their bikes have AC for lights, and DC for battery charging and DC loads like a horn or turn signals. Some bike also have 3 phase alternators like a car so use a different type of rectifier/regulator.

You can connect the orange & yellow wires to a rectifier/regulator for DC power, often needed for a horn and turn signals. Racetech use to have a 5 wire rectifier/regulator that was good for this application because it could be used with a small capacity battery.

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To disable battery power using the same key switch, you'd probably use a relay.

Like Chuck said, you're stator may make 200w split between 2 lines, but it's AC. It's not DC until you run it thru a rectifier/regulator. It would be best to run your DC thru a small battery to stabilize and clean up the current. All DC operated components would be fed from the battery, not the DC feed coming from the rec/reg.

Most LEDs prefer DC because they flow electricity in one direction only. That's why they don't play well with AC(alternating current). It would be best to regulate the current they see by connecting them to battery output.

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Thanks for the responses! I'm slowly making sense of things as I'm not used to working with AC circuits, especially when combined with DC current.

On a bike without a key switch and once the A/C to DC regulator/rectifier is wired to the battery to help stabilize the voltage, what turns off the power to the DC lights if the battery is wired on the same circuit as the turn signals and other lights? Using the below diagram as a reference, I don't understand what cuts the power from the battery when the bike is off. There's most likely a simple explanation that I'm totally missing due to my lack of knowledge about this system.

XR400wiringDC.jpg

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I don't have time to do up a wiring diagram for you right now, but assuming you just want to run some LED indicators and a horn this can be done using a bridge rectifier, capacitor and an LED flasher module, total cost should be about $20. I'll try and get a diagram up early next week if you don't have an answer by then.

A key is also simple to add. I've fitted a key to mine but I've also converted to full DC using a 3 phase stator so I have 200W+ available to keep the battery charged for electric start :)

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The CDI charging coil and pulse generator/exciter coil are separate to the lighting coils, so yes no worries there. I've had mine running on both an XR400 and 400EX cdi, no problems. I'm using an Electrosport G443 stator and a Honda CBR600F4 mosfet-style regulator and an 8 cell Anti-Gravity battery mounted opposite the exhaust off the subframe. Battery weighs 710 grams/1lb 9oz :thumbsup:

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The XR250L, like most street bikes, has a 200 watt three phase stator with everything running off the 12v battery while it is charged by the stator through the Reg./Rec.

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Thanks guys. I'm working with an electronics guru at work to come up with a key switch solution to power down the DC side, but I still have yet to come up with something. I'm probably going to use a CRF50 or CRF70 key switch to replace my stock kill switch and then wire in a relay SOMEWHERE to kill the DC power (coming from the battery) when the bike shuts down. The big question is, where can I wire that relay?

Also, are there any affordable (under $50) AC to DC reg/rectifiers out there that are dependable? Right now, I'm looking at a Trail Tech and Baja Designs unit.

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If you want to run a battery,get a rectifyer.(DC)...if you want to use the stator,get a voltage regulater.(AC)..both limit the output to 12v...

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Correct me if i'm wrong... I need a reg/rectifier (like the one Rickystator posted) connected to the 100w AC wires coming from the Stator and then the reg/rectifier can provide DC current to the battery?

I need a damn diagram!

My project is on hold until I get my wheels fitted. If anyone has time to complete my poor attempt at a wire diagram, my paypal offer still stands. I'm convinced I'm a electrical retard.

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Honda likes to use the same wire colors for the same circuits on all of their bike; so green is always ground, etc.

from memory:

Blu= head light or hi beam

black/red power f/ alternator to CDI

black/white= coil and kill switch

white = low beam headlight

white w/ yellow = power for lights

blue = high beam

brown=tail light

pink= alternator output, AC for DC rectifier input

yellow=alternator output, AC for DC rectifier input

blue= alternator output for internally grounded alternators, used for AC lights.

white/yellow = headlight power

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