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Finally bought the perfect XR250R, now what does it need?


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Hey gang. New guy here. Long time listener first time caller. I live out in Western Montana, Missoula to be specific...in the rockies, its all woods rinding here..3300 feet at valley floor, 11000 feet when we stop for lunch. I have previously been on a KDX200 and my boring 4WD ATV. I finally just found and bought a 1997 Honda XR250R. It is literally mint. 1 owner, always garaged, never ridden, perfectly maintained, bone stock, owned by a wealthy 60 year old computer engineer. Not a scratch on it, and the original tires still have the blue ink line along the tread. Anyway, enough of my barn find bragging. I am looking for advice about the smartest modifications, maintenence musts and must nots, best add ons, and any other tips or advice you may have. I am 6'3, 220 lbs. Somewhat experienced trail rider, but also a father of two, not a racer, just a guy who loves to go in the woods. Thanks for any advice you have. Keep in mind the only bike I have known is the KDX, so I dont even know what oil to buy or how often to change it yet. LOL. Still have to get used to not mixing oil in my fuel. LOL

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I bought an 03 just a while back, same story. Never ridden, garage kept for the most part, also had the original tires, chain, etc. I went over every inch of the bike before hitting the trail. I would put dielectric grease on all connections before everything gets dirty, regrease the headset bearings, both axles and the rear shock linkage because the factory never puts enough there in the first place. I would also change the oil if the bike has been sitting for that long. While you have everything off to take care of the electrical connections I would check the valves. As far as added items or mods I pulled the snorkel from the air box, added a uni filter and jetted for my area. I also added a skid plate and handguards because a busted case or broken lever can end a ride quick in "Rocksylvania". I would also take a look at the "Gordons mods" post, stickied on 1st page of topics.

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Bark busters are a must in the woods in my opinion. Saved my brake and clutch levers countless times. And if your riding over fallen trees then a bash plates are nice. I've also got a staintune slip on exhaust which helps it a bit. And removing the airbox snorkel helps it breathe a lot better too.

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I'm just across the ID border; same type of terrain. Buy the fullest-wrapping skid plate you can get, and any other kind of stick-on case savers you can find. Bark busters are a must. Some lifting straps will make it a little easier to pick up/reposition. This is probably a lot heavier than the KDX, so find an open field and practice your pivot turns. Much easier than getting off and repositioning once you get the hang of it. If you have the carb apart, you might want to re-jet it so it runs a little lean in the valleys so it doesn't cough and die in the clouds (start with the air box and exhaust mods without rejetting... this worked perfectly for me). And you might be a bit heavy for the front springs, but if you aren't riding too aggressively, you may not notice. No less than 20/50 full synthetic IMO, and change it shortly after shifting is no longer smooth, but there are endless other threads for that debate. If you have the money to throw at it, get a Trail Tech Vapor, at least to monitor the engine temp (Voyager if you have the dough). Congrats on the purchase, and if you ever make it out this way, I ride just off I-90, 10-20 miles from the MT state line. :ride:

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I second the use of synthetic oil. Air-cooled shared-sump wet clutch engines are hard on oil. In your summer I would run 20w50 or 15w50. When you need to start the bike in cold weather, people are liking Rotella T6 5w40.

This is how you can measure the performance of your oil:

https://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1016719-fully-synthetic-oil-in-xr400r/page__st__80#entry10819909

Removing the snorkel and installing a free flowing exhaust will require jetting which is tricky given your broad elevation differences. With the right pilot jet, you can adjust the fuel screw to help compensate for altitude. If the bike sat with fuel in it, you likely have carb issues.

Carry a spare clutch lever, spark plug, and tools.

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At your weight you will definitely want to put beefier springs in it. For riding The Rockies you need to put some protection on that thing too. For the bike you need a good aluminum skid plate and a shark fin for that rear brake rotor just for starters. For your hands, get a set of bark busters. Read the sticky at the top of this forum about the Gordon Mods. It's written for the XR400, but much of it applies to the 250 as well. It's all cheap or free things you can do to improve the performance of your bike.

Nice find by the way. Enjoy it.

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Other than jetting and shim stacks on the suspension, almost everything posted about the XR400 applies to the XR250. I'd add the protection and ride it a bit. Put money into what is needed.

Uncork

Protect

Adjust the suspension.

Do Gordon's mods. The 96-97 were jetted for "race conditions", assuming the owner would remove the intake and quiet core. In other words, the bike is factory jetted for being uncorked. The header does not need to be ground down either. Remove the snorkel and put in a UniFilter or TwinAir with cage. . The bike is too loud with the quiet core removed for public lands.

See how the jetting feels. How to tell a bike that is jetted too rich? Ride the bike, warm it, put the choke on half. That is a way rich bike. Don't ride far like that, just get the feel.

Add Handguards, fork leg protectors, and a skid plate.

Several companies sell Utah Sports skid plate as their own. It looks like a big snow shovel. It will reflect noise back up and makes the bike sound louder.

Unless you really find the power inadequate, put money into Revalving and respringigng the suspension before buying a pipe.

Edited by Kev_XR
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One other area I gave special attention to was the lack of frame drain holes on my XR. Not sure if all XR's have this issue but mine did. I think I just got lucky the PO didn't leave it outside for all the years it sat. Anyways here is the link that helped clarify everything for me. Before I drilled the holes I put the bike on my bike stand, not the kickstand. I then sprayed WD-40 on the frame rails and let the fluid fall to the lowest point. I figured if thats where the fluid will drip down then any moisture that collects in the frame will drain out from that same point. I also make it a point to spray out the holes with WD-40 after every ride, it's cheap insurance. I've found that the holes can clog up with junk pretty quick after a muddy ride. Anyways hope this helps.

https://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/960276-rusted-frames/page__st__20

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Yours looks awesome mate ! ?

Just got mine a few weeks ago 90' 250R

Had more hits than Elvis.

Needed full choke first 2 minutes :banghead:

Checked airbox to discover a rat had made a home in it using lawn clippings

that it scavenged off the ride on mower that parked beside the bike and

some stickers he chewed off the plastics. :devil:

He also tried to eat the oil foam filter but mustn't have liked the taste

(fussy bugger hey!)

But in a few short weeks and some basic cheap parts I've come to love this bike

for what it is " BULLET PROOF" :ride:

Ps: He gained access due to the snorkel removal mod

Edited by Fishin Scott
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I have now done done good hard trail riding on my new old xr. What a great bike. I plan to start with adjusting my front and rear suspension to firm both up. Looks like I will have to disassemble quite a few things to gain access to my rear shock to increase my pre load and tighten that spring down. Am I going to regret trying to do this on my own? Lol.

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Hey gang. New guy here. Long time listener first time caller. I live out in Western Montana, Missoula to be specific...in the rockies, its all woods rinding here..3300 feet at valley floor, 11000 feet when we stop for lunch. I have previously been on a KDX200 and my boring 4WD ATV. I finally just found and bought a 1997 Honda XR250R. It is literally mint. 1 owner, always garaged, never ridden, perfectly maintained, bone stock, owned by a wealthy 60 year old computer engineer. Not a scratch on it, and the original tires still have the blue ink line along the tread. Anyway, enough of my barn find bragging. I am looking for advice about the smartest modifications, maintenence musts and must nots, best add ons, and any other tips or advice you may have. I am 6'3, 220 lbs. Somewhat experienced trail rider, but also a father of two, not a racer, just a guy who loves to go in the woods. Thanks for any advice you have. Keep in mind the only bike I have known is the KDX, so I dont even know what oil to buy or how often to change it yet. LOL. Still have to get used to not mixing oil in my fuel. LOL

If its perfect, doesn't that by definition mean that it needs nothing?

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Have to chime in...

... Lived in Helena 1979 to 1988, rode every cross country and enduro in MT and ID, was a LOT of fun.

Live in Nevada now, desert, sand, rocks, rarely a water crossing.

I've owned several XR250s, bought one brand new 2003, all others I bought with very little use.

XR 250 can be a deadly race bike. I'm 53 now, expert level, A line, whatever.

All my XR250s were 100% stock with the air box snorkel and that small baffle removed, sprocket changes as necessary. I'd install short spacers on top of the fork springs to firm up a little.

I'd consistently placed top 20 overall. XR250 is pretty fast top end, will out run most bikes except a KTM 450 - 525 6 speed. Our courses can include a dry lake bed 4 to 5 miles long.

XR250 darn fast down a gnarly, rocky down hill.

Oil... I had XR250s that I never changed the oil, like 2 years of racing, others I'd change every other race, I have no idea why I did either, just my mindset I guess.

I've had and raced a LOT of bikes, KTM 450-525, CRF450x, CR500, YZ490(GREAT bikes but they get a bad rap), YZ250, RM250, KX500, all fun bikes but XR250s are SO easy and fun to ride fast or slow, and can be very inexpensive, the 2003 I bought new was $3900?? otd, the used bikes I paid from $1500 to $600.

Post just above... I did buy stiffer fork springs for 1 XR250, I just kept and re-used from bike to bike.

Edited by arthur6
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I didn't read all the responses, but here are my suggestions from experience with a friend who had one and was your size. He quickly got tired of revving the piss out of it so first thing was a pipe and jetting, that helped a little so he did a flat slide carb, he said that helped a LOT but later still wanted more, especially bottom end, so he did the (I think) 300cc kit. When he had the motor apart he also did a cam which was suggested for the 300 kit. He put it back together and said it was ngiht and day different and almost as fast as his XR400R that had a pipe on it. I don't know how fast you NEED to make it or if it even needs mods for the riding you do but the point is, you CAN pump the heck out of them and they stay pretty reliable!

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