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Need Help With Hot Idle Stalling XR650L

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Hi, new member here. I bought a 1993 xr650l a month ago, got it licensed and started riding. It ran great for the first 3 weeks, now it will start perfectly when cold, ride well when hot, but it wont idle when hot. When I come to a stop the rpm slowly drops until it stalls. I can keep it alive with the throttle. If it does stall, it needs a fair bit of throttle to fire, otherwise it will just crank and crank.

To my knowledge it is stock other than having the valves and top end done by the previous owner.

I have set the valve clearance, changed the plug, put new fuel in it, and done an oil change since I bought it.

How can I get it to run better and not stall constantly when its hot?

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Hi, new member here. I bought a 1993 xr650l a month ago, got it licensed and started riding. It ran great for the first 3 weeks, now it will start perfectly when cold, ride well when hot, but it wont idle when hot. When I come to a stop the rpm slowly drops until it stalls. I can keep it alive with the throttle. If it does stall, it needs a fair bit of throttle to fire, otherwise it will just crank and crank.

To my knowledge it is stock other than having the valves and top end done by the previous owner.

I have set the valve clearance, changed the plug, put new fuel in it, and done an oil change since I bought it.

How can I get it to run better and not stall constantly when its hot?

Sounds like its too rich if it gets worse when hot, choke cable sticking? Other than that you might want to screw in the pilot screw 1/4-1/2 turn to see if that helps.

Edited by D0T-C0M
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You might also consider raising the idle a little bit. My 2001 XR650L has a knob on the left side that I can turn, even with gloves on, to increase or decrease the idle. I turned mine up little by little until I had no more stalling problems. I don't know what the idle speed is right now, but it's still lower than the correct idle speed of my KTM.

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Thanks for the replies but unfortunately I'm a complete noob. Can you post pictures of this idle knob and the idle screw? I don't think the choke cable is the problem because as I move it through its range the rpms do change accordingly. Thanks

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Bit of an update. Its still stalling. I must have not warmed it up enough when I tested it. I have to have the idle screw maxed for it to stay running, and it backfires a lot. Must be rich.

Any tips on getting the pilot screw turned a bit. Its a really weird angle, and I can't get it to turn. Am I missing something?

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I had to open my pilot screw quite a bit to alleviate this issue.  I opened it up a little at a time until the issue was resolved.  In the end, it was a full turn open from where it was at when I bought it used.  You may not be able to go a full turn as there is a limiter cap placed on the pilot screw.  This may require a modification.  See Dave's Mods in this forum or take the bike to your local shop.

 

The shop manual indicates that the starting point for adjustment is to lightly seat (Screw the pilot screw all the way in lightly.  DO NOT torque it even with finger pressure as torque may cause damage the carburetor.) then unscrew the pilot 2 and 1/4 turns out for frame serial numbers PM-000001 to PM-000958 or 2 and 3/4 turns out for frame serial numbers larger than PM-000958.  (This is for non-California models.)  This is the initial adjustment.  After initial adjustment, @ ~1300 rpm's (adjusted with the idle stop screw.) you slowly unscrew the pilot screw until you achieve the highest engine speed.  (It should go up and then eventually drop.  Once it drops, screw it back in slowly until it reaches the peak engine speed again.)  After the pilot screw is adjusted, re-adjust the idle stop screw to achieve ~1300 rpm's.  This applies to operating altitudes under 2000 ft.

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