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Check Jetting on DRZ400SM with FMF and 3x3

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Hi,

I recently bought an 06 DRZ400SM and have already made a few posts about it.

It has a full FMF exhaust with "powerbomb" header as well as 3x3 airbox mod, both installed/done by the previous owner. When I bought it, I asked him if it was re-jetted to account for these modifications and he said yes. I am interested in possibly checking the jets anyways especially because I think the bike/exhaust gets really hot. Is it normal for DRZ to seem really hot from street riding?

What are the proper jets for me to use with these mods? Elevation of Milwaukee WI is ~600 feet.

Also, is there a possibility I need to change rad fluid? I asked a guy at the Suzuki dealer and he said no, but the service manual says to change every 2 years.

Sorry for all of the questions in one post.

Thanks,

Matt

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I would replace all fluids anytime you purchase a used bike. It also wouldn't hurt to check your valve clearances, what jets and needle are installed in the carb, check the wheel bearings for any slop/grittyness, and pack the swingarm, linkage and stem bearings with grease.

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I'm at 850 altitude with a '09 S with stock exhaust.95 degrees the last few weeks.

Saturday I did the airbox mod and used the JD kit with Kientec fuel screw.

Anyway I used the blue needle,clip in the 3rd(middle groove) 155 main,25 pilot and the fuel screw 2-5/8 turns out.

Bike runs way better than stock, more responsive (power wheelies 2nd&3rd gear with ease) pulls much harder but is just a touch fat on the big end, going to drop to 150 main to clean that up later this afternoon.

Very happy with the JD kit verses the dynojet kits I've used in the past.

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The guy I bought it from was the second owner. He said it was already jetted when he bought it and does not know what it is. Say I buy a JD jet kit, what settings for that would I use?

Since the bike seems like it is running fine, with the exception of some backfiring, should I even bother taking off the carb and checking it out?

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One thing though, when I am holding in the clutch and chop the throttle, the bike will die when not COMPLETELY warmed up.

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if its backfiring a lot, turn the fuel screw out 1/2 a turn or so, and see how it does,

does it have the extended fuel screw?

One thing you can do, is remove the carb, and see what is in there now, then Craigo will be able to tell you if you should change it or leave it.

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It does not have the extended fuel screw. What are the benefits of this?

I am planning on removing the carb sometime in the near future, but from what I read it's kind of a pain in the ass?

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One thing though, when I am holding in the clutch and chop the throttle, the bike will die when not COMPLETELY warmed up.

You can't expect an engine to perform well when cold

It does not have the extended fuel screw. What are the benefits of this?

I am planning on removing the carb sometime in the near future, but from what I read it's kind of a pain in the ass?

an extended fuel screw makes for easier adjustment when fine tuning..

if its backfiring a lot, turn the fuel screw out 1/2 a turn or so, and see how it does,

One thing you can do, is remove the carb, and see what is in there now, then Craigo will be able to tell you if you should change it or leave it.

popping on decel is normal

Set the fuel screw to where you think it should be by using this procedure...http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=327405 ...then turn it out another 1/8 th turn to help calm the pop .....

without physically checking we are dealing with an unknown quantity..the needle is removed via the top of the carb..

however if you think your engine is performing ok without surging or stumbling you might want to not do anything at this stage....it's your call

Check this vid ...

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Jumping in on this thread, I have a similar setup and I'm feeling some surging when I open it up wide. It stumbles and then goes, feels like the engine is holding back a bit. But for the most part it idles and runs fine. I just bought the bike, the previous owner bought it used from a dealership and he barely rode it, old guy rode it on a dirt road to work. Anyway...

 

It's a 2006s

FMF powerbomb

FMF titanium 4 can

K&N filter

3x3 mod

 

I have no idea what it was jetted at, there is no extended mixture screw. I think i'm going to go ahead and just get the JD jet kit and make sure it's done proper, but I would love a jetting recommendation. I live in central Texas which is sea level-2000 feet, specifically my local area is 1000 feet sea level.

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Jumping in on this thread, I have a similar setup and I'm feeling some surging when I open it up wide. It stumbles and then goes, feels like the engine is holding back a bit. But for the most part it idles and runs fine. I just bought the bike, the previous owner bought it used from a dealership and he barely rode it, old guy rode it on a dirt road to work. Anyway...

 

It's a 2006s

FMF powerbomb

FMF titanium 4 can

K&N filter

3x3 mod

 

I have no idea what it was jetted at, there is no extended mixture screw. I think i'm going to go ahead and just get the JD jet kit and make sure it's done proper, but I would love a jetting recommendation. I live in central Texas which is sea level-2000 feet, specifically my local area is 1000 feet sea level.

 

Main Jet: 160 (open pipe)   155 (corked pipe)

Needle: Blue on clip 4

Pilot Jet: 22.5 (w/ extended fuel screw)   25 (w/ stock fuel screw)

Fuel Screw: 2.75 turns out to begin with then fine tune using this https://thumpertalk.com/topic/271735-how-to-confirm-your-pilot-circuit-setting/

 

That set up is for the JD jet kit 

https://thumpertalk.com/shop/JD-Jetting-Jet-Kit-DR-Z400S-SM-p2006766373.html

And here is a link for the extended fuel screw, I would recommend you get one because it makes adjusting the fuel screw super easy

https://thumpertalk.com/shop/ThumperTalk-DRZ400S-SM-Extended-Fuel-Mixture-Screw-p2006766350.html

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Main Jet: 160 (open pipe)   155 (corked pipe)

Needle: Blue on clip 4

Pilot Jet: 22.5 (w/ extended fuel screw)   25 (w/ stock fuel screw)

Fuel Screw: 2.75 turns out to begin with then fine tune using this https://thumpertalk.com/topic/271735-how-to-confirm-your-pilot-circuit-setting/

 

That set up is for the JD jet kit 

https://thumpertalk.com/shop/JD-Jetting-Jet-Kit-DR-Z400S-SM-p2006766373.html

And here is a link for the extended fuel screw, I would recommend you get one because it makes adjusting the fuel screw super easy

https://thumpertalk.com/shop/ThumperTalk-DRZ400S-SM-Extended-Fuel-Mixture-Screw-p2006766350.html

 

 

Thanks for the reply, I was just about to order the jet kit but I figured I better double check the carb, as it turns it out it's a Mikuni carb, not sure what size, but I thought the 2006 DRZ s came with a Keihin FCR... I'm assuming this jet kit will not work:

https://thumpertalk.com/shop/JD-Jetting-Jet-Kit-DR-Z400S-SM-p2006766373.html

 

or will it?

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Thanks for the reply, I was just about to order the jet kit but I figured I better double check the carb, as it turns it out it's a Mikuni carb, not sure what size, but I thought the 2006 DRZ s came with a Keihin FCR... I'm assuming this jet kit will not work:

https://thumpertalk.com/shop/JD-Jetting-Jet-Kit-DR-Z400S-SM-p2006766373.html

 

or will it?

 

All DRZ400 S's and SM's came from the factory with the Mikuni BSR 36mm carburetor, E models come with the slant style FCR carb. 

 

So unless your carb has been swapped for the FCR the jet kit linked above will work for you. It will not work for an FCR carb.

 

Also jet kits are a waste of money for the FCR anyways, Keihin jets and needles work best and are usually cheaper than buying a jet kit.

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Thanks for the reply, I was just about to order the jet kit but I figured I better double check the carb, as it turns it out it's a Mikuni carb, not sure what size, but I thought the 2006 DRZ s came with a Keihin FCR... I'm assuming this jet kit will not work:

https://thumpertalk.com/shop/JD-Jetting-Jet-Kit-DR-Z400S-SM-p2006766373.html

 

or will it?

 

Yes it is the correct jet kit for the mikuni carb....

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