2005 CR250R Eric Gorr 265 Review

[displaynamerequired]

After a LONG couple of months I finally got my CR back together. Brand new bottom end with a EG265 kit with Mid-Top porting, head cut for Pump gas.

When I originally sent my cylinder out there was a nasty scratch near the exhaust bridge on the cylinder. EG did a wonderful job fixing it and porting. Everything was done the way it was suppose to be done. The top end kit from Wossner is top notch. Love it. ONLY thing I can say is when Eric sent me the cylinder back, he didn't put the PV shaft in right. It was a half turn off from where it was suppose to be. I took the bracket off, slid the PV shaft out, turned it, and put it back in. It slid in fine, like its suppose to, but I have no idea if thats the "proper" way of doing it. If anyone can give me some input on it it would be awesome.... Bc this bike is now a mid-top MONSTER with no low end, at all (Could be PV?? Idk)...

This is all with stock 13/49 gearing. PC pipe and 304 silencer. V-force 3 reeds. JD jet kit, standard settings for sea level warm temps.

First start it was a little bit of a pain bc I had the carb for some reason flooding it self (prob from sitting 2 months). But once it started it was awesome. You can even hear how much crisper this thing runs, its unreal. I did 3 heat cycles.

1. 10 mins of idle/just above idle RPM. then 20 min cool down.

2. 10 mins of riding around the farm opening up to about 3/4 throttle, short shifting gears. 20 min cool down after.

3. 10-20 mins of light riding on the track. Riding like normal (jumping and stuff) just not race pace. 20 min cool down.

4. 1 hour of riding. Normal to hard (hard meaning race pace). 1 hour cool down.

5. 2 hours of race pace (this is when she REALLY opened up).

6. Break in done

The last hour of break in is when this thing really started to shine. Idling started to level off, starting was very easy (was never a problem after the first start up though), and power started really coming in its own.

As far as the powerband goes... this thing is truly a mid-top bike now. Like in the beginning of this, I dont know if its the power valve (how I turned the shaft and slid it right back in bc Eric sent it back wrong bc cable holder would not fit. ANY INSIGHT WOULD HELP ME)....it doesnt have a "flooding" bog feel. Just a no low end bog feel, like a 125 has....

I would NOT AT ALL recommend this set up for anyone less then a fast B class rider. Stock had more (felt more) bottom end then it does now. But once you hit the mid-top, you dont even care about bottom end ( I know I dont). It hit hard, but not arm ripping out hard. Its predictable and progressive. I can run a gear lower on straights not having to shift now. I just rev the poo out of it and it never falls flat hard like stock does. Its such a solid mid-top end power band now. Its smooth, but firm. Its a true racers power band. MX racer that is. I would HATE this for woods.

Now I know this isnt the greatest review, but its what I got lol. If anyone can help me with how the PV thing is itd be awesome. Im going to try and see if running a 13/50 gearing will be better or not later this week. Let me know if anyone else wants more details on this thing!

[dirtracker]

After a LONG couple of months I finally got my CR back together. Brand new bottom end with a EG265 kit with Mid-Top porting, head cut for Pump gas.

When I originally sent my cylinder out there was a nasty scratch near the exhaust bridge on the cylinder. EG did a wonderful job fixing it and porting. Everything was done the way it was suppose to be done. The top end kit from Wossner is top notch. Love it. ONLY thing I can say is when Eric sent me the cylinder back, he didn't put the PV shaft in right. It was a half turn off from where it was suppose to be. I took the bracket off, slid the PV shaft out, turned it, and put it back in. It slid in fine, like its suppose to, but I have no idea if thats the "proper" way of doing it. If anyone can give me some input on it it would be awesome.... Bc this bike is now a mid-top MONSTER with no low end, at all (Could be PV?? Idk)...

This is all with stock 13/49 gearing. PC pipe and 304 silencer. V-force 3 reeds. JD jet kit, standard settings for sea level warm temps.

First start it was a little bit of a pain bc I had the carb for some reason flooding it self (prob from sitting 2 months). But once it started it was awesome. You can even hear how much crisper this thing runs, its unreal. I did 3 heat cycles.

1. 10 mins of idle/just above idle RPM. then 20 min cool down.

2. 10 mins of riding around the farm opening up to about 3/4 throttle, short shifting gears. 20 min cool down after.

3. 10-20 mins of light riding on the track. Riding like normal (jumping and stuff) just not race pace. 20 min cool down.

4. 1 hour of riding. Normal to hard (hard meaning race pace). 1 hour cool down.

5. 2 hours of race pace (this is when she REALLY opened up).

6. Break in done

The last hour of break in is when this thing really started to shine. Idling started to level off, starting was very easy (was never a problem after the first start up though), and power started really coming in its own.

As far as the powerband goes... this thing is truly a mid-top bike now. Like in the beginning of this, I dont know if its the power valve (how I turned the shaft and slid it right back in bc Eric sent it back wrong bc cable holder would not fit. ANY INSIGHT WOULD HELP ME)....it doesnt have a "flooding" bog feel. Just a no low end bog feel, like a 125 has....

I would NOT AT ALL recommend this set up for anyone less then a fast B class rider. Stock had more (felt more) bottom end then it does now. But once you hit the mid-top, you dont even care about bottom end ( I know I dont). It hit hard, but not arm ripping out hard. Its predictable and progressive. I can run a gear lower on straights not having to shift now. I just rev the poo out of it and it never falls flat hard like stock does. Its such a solid mid-top end power band now. Its smooth, but firm. Its a true racers power band. MX racer that is. I would HATE this for woods.

Now I know this isnt the greatest review, but its what I got lol. If anyone can help me with how the PV thing is itd be awesome. Im going to try and see if running a 13/50 gearing will be better or not later this week. Let me know if anyone else wants more details on this thing!

d

After a LONG couple of months I finally got my CR back together. Brand new bottom end with a EG265 kit with Mid-Top porting, head cut for Pump gas.

When I originally sent my cylinder out there was a nasty scratch near the exhaust bridge on the cylinder. EG did a wonderful job fixing it and porting. Everything was done the way it was suppose to be done. The top end kit from Wossner is top notch. Love it. ONLY thing I can say is when Eric sent me the cylinder back, he didn't put the PV shaft in right. It was a half turn off from where it was suppose to be. I took the bracket off, slid the PV shaft out, turned it, and put it back in. It slid in fine, like its suppose to, but I have no idea if thats the "proper" way of doing it. If anyone can give me some input on it it would be awesome.... Bc this bike is now a mid-top MONSTER with no low end, at all (Could be PV?? Idk)...

This is all with stock 13/49 gearing. PC pipe and 304 silencer. V-force 3 reeds. JD jet kit, standard settings for sea level warm temps.

First start it was a little bit of a pain bc I had the carb for some reason flooding it self (prob from sitting 2 months). But once it started it was awesome. You can even hear how much crisper this thing runs, its unreal. I did 3 heat cycles.

1. 10 mins of idle/just above idle RPM. then 20 min cool down.

2. 10 mins of riding around the farm opening up to about 3/4 throttle, short shifting gears. 20 min cool down after.

3. 10-20 mins of light riding on the track. Riding like normal (jumping and stuff) just not race pace. 20 min cool down.

4. 1 hour of riding. Normal to hard (hard meaning race pace). 1 hour cool down.

5. 2 hours of race pace (this is when she REALLY opened up).

6. Break in done

The last hour of break in is when this thing really started to shine. Idling started to level off, starting was very easy (was never a problem after the first start up though), and power started really coming in its own.

As far as the powerband goes... this thing is truly a mid-top bike now. Like in the beginning of this, I dont know if its the power valve (how I turned the shaft and slid it right back in bc Eric sent it back wrong bc cable holder would not fit. ANY INSIGHT WOULD HELP ME)....it doesnt have a "flooding" bog feel. Just a no low end bog feel, like a 125 has....

I would NOT AT ALL recommend this set up for anyone less then a fast B class rider. Stock had more (felt more) bottom end then it does now. But once you hit the mid-top, you dont even care about bottom end ( I know I dont). It hit hard, but not arm ripping out hard. Its predictable and progressive. I can run a gear lower on straights not having to shift now. I just rev the poo out of it and it never falls flat hard like stock does. Its such a solid mid-top end power band now. Its smooth, but firm. Its a true racers power band. MX racer that is. I would HATE this for woods.

Now I know this isnt the greatest review, but its what I got lol. If anyone can help me with how the PV thing is itd be awesome. Im going to try and see if running a 13/50 gearing will be better or not later this week. Let me know if anyone else wants more details on this thing!

Do you still have the stock carb in there? What jets are you running?

[Hans Schmid]

Its the powervalve, it isn't working....

I just did 200 topend and didn't align the powervalve properly. The bike had ZERO bottom-end then hit like a SOB.....so I know the feeling....

Edited July 9, 2013 by originalmonk

[adam8781]

Something is wrong if you have zero bottom. Hopefully someone will chime in with the pv. The extra 15cc would give much more bottom than stock even with top porting.

[displaynamerequired]

d

Do you still have the stock carb in there? What jets are you running?

Stock carb with Standard JD jetting. If you read the post you wouldnt have needed to ask lol

[displaynamerequired]

Something is wrong if you have zero bottom. Hopefully someone will chime in with the pv. The extra 15cc would give much more bottom than stock even with top porting.

This is exactly what I was thinking. The shaft can only fit in curtain ways every 90 degrees. The way Eric had it there was NO way it went like that. I could not get the bracket at all on. I turned it 90 degrees and it slipped right in. When I did put the shaft in, the power valve was down. Is the proper way of putting the shaft in is, holding the power valve open, then installing the shaft?? the manual has NOTHING on this. Just says slide it in.

[CamP]

Pull the cover, start the bike and watch for proper powervalve operation.

[displaynamerequired]

Called Eric for some insight... he said theres a very high chance that its the power valve being offset. He said push the PV up in the open position, then slide the PV shaft in. My PV was down when I put it back in. simple fix. Everything is just Open the entire RPM range. Funny, Im happy with the bike and its not even running properly hahaha

[adam8781]

Called Eric for some insight... he said theres a very high chance that its the power valve being offset. He said push the PV up in the open position, then slide the PV shaft in. My PV was down when I put it back in. simple fix. Everything is just Open the entire RPM range. Funny, Im happy with the bike and its not even running properly hahaha

saweet, yes with it locked open, you would have nothing down low, then a big punch in the face on the topend. Log some seat time with it fixxed and report back.

[Austesus]

Hahaha, that's hilarious that you loved it and it wasn't even running right... I bet you really love it now!

[displaynamerequired]

saweet, yes with it locked open, you would have nothing down low, then a big punch in the face on the topend. Log some seat time with it fixxed and report back.

Ok. so today I took a look at the PV. It was opening and closing properly, just a little too soon. Before the PV started to open around 3500 RPM, with a small adjustment on the cables its now starting to open around 5000ish and fully opens at 7500ish (from what I read, this is correct). So my PV cables were just a little tight.

It still has a massive hit from bottom to mid. But its more of a "proper" bog and not a bog that always happens unless youre ringing its neck. This thing is just not a bottom end bike at all. Its an aggressive MX machine, just like I wanted it to be. I might throw a leaner main jet in bc Eric did say the 265 kit should need a leaner setting, plus its summer weather with 85+ degrees everyday and Im still running the bone stock JD Jet kit settings. Maybe this will clean me up even more.

BTW, the way I adjusted the PV cables was:

Rear cable: All the way down, nut to the cylinder like the book says.

Front cable: Turned the PV Fully OPEN (Counter Clock wise). Tightened the cable so the cable is snug. Snug as in if I push the cable to the front, trying to touch the cylinder with it, it doesnt. But it does give a little. Firm but not loose.

Hope I adjusted the PV right hahaha. Seems to run better

[H4L]

Ok. so today I took a look at the PV. It was opening and closing properly, just a little too soon. Before the PV started to open around 3500 RPM, with a small adjustment on the cables its now starting to open around 5000ish and fully opens at 7500ish (from what I read, this is correct). So my PV cables were just a little tight.

It still has a massive hit from bottom to mid. But its more of a "proper" bog and not a bog that always happens unless youre ringing its neck. This thing is just not a bottom end bike at all. Its an aggressive MX machine, just like I wanted it to be. I might throw a leaner main jet in bc Eric did say the 265 kit should need a leaner setting, plus its summer weather with 85+ degrees everyday and Im still running the bone stock JD Jet kit settings. Maybe this will clean me up even more.

BTW, the way I adjusted the PV cables was:

Rear cable: All the way down, nut to the cylinder like the book says.

Front cable: Turned the PV Fully OPEN (Counter Clock wise). Tightened the cable so the cable is snug. Snug as in if I push the cable to the front, trying to touch the cylinder with it, it doesnt. But it does give a little. Firm but not loose.

Hope I adjusted the PV right hahaha. Seems to run better

According to my 02-03 CR250r service manual the RC valve should be operating between 3K - 8K RPM. I couldn't find my 07 owners manual to confirm, but believe the 02-07 electronic RC valve works the same. I think you were closer before with it opening up at 3,500 rpm.

[displaynamerequired]

According to my 02-03 CR250r service manual the RC valve should be operating between 3K - 8K RPM. I couldn't find my 07 owners manual to confirm, but believe the 02-07 electronic RC valve works the same. I think you were closer before with it opening up at 3,500 rpm.

So how would it be closer as long as the PV is opening between 3-8000? lol. Just saying, it operated in that range for both adjustments. Just my last adjustment feels better. The cable is tight, but has give/play. From what I understand this is more proper then what I had, a tight cable with no give. who knows. I hate this RC PV hahaha

[H4L]

So how would it be closer as long as the PV is opening between 3-8000? lol. Just saying, it operated in that range for both adjustments. Just my last adjustment feels better. The cable is tight, but has give/play. From what I understand this is more proper then what I had, a tight cable with no give. who knows. I hate this RC PV hahaha

You mentioned the RC valve opened up around 5K rpm after your adj. & 3,500rpm before. If it's opening up around 5K that means your port timing is off with the RC valve. It should open up at 3K & gradually open till 8K otherwise your port timing will be off. With the powervalve closed till 5K it could feel flat since it's not running optimun port timing & then have a spike in power when it opens up. Do you have a tack/ hr meter to check the RC valve operation ?

[farfromhome63]

This is intresting, I woulda thought you might pickup some lowend just because the increase in displacement. so its a freaking animal huh!

[Piney Woods]

It is very obvious something is not right. Why would you do this much work on an engine and spend so many $$$ WITHOUT having a $50 Service Manual? Tell me why?

[adam8781]

This is intresting, I woulda thought you might pickup some lowend just because the increase in displacement. so its a freaking animal huh!

Your thoughts are right, even with topend porting the 265 would have more lowend than stock.

It is very obvious something is not right. Why would you do this much work on an engine and spend so many $$$ WITHOUT having a $50 Service Manual? Tell me why?

I agree, something is wrong, no matter what there should be more bottom end than stock.

[displaynamerequired]

It is very obvious something is not right. Why would you do this much work on an engine and spend so many $$$ WITHOUT having a $50 Service Manual? Tell me why?

Who said I didnt have one? The book is very unclear on this topic.

[DesertCR]

I hope you can figure it out because including myself i bet there are quite a few people that would like to know how it runs properly setup. Ive only seen the mop betta porting reports from him and am very interested in the mid/top port job. Good luck

[displaynamerequired]

I hope you can figure it out because including myself i bet there are quite a few people that would like to know how it runs properly setup. Ive only seen the mop betta porting reports from him and am very interested in the mid/top port job. Good luck

Im thinking its more of a wetting issue then anything. I pulled my plug earlier today. It was a little tan, but wet. Im thinking the main might need to be leaned? (JD Jet Kit)