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2004 crf250x will not start! HELP!

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Hi guys,

I searched and could not find my answer so I started anew thread, sorry if it is repetitive, but couldnt find it.

My 04 250x will not start except by bump starting. I just bought this off a guy a few weeks ago and it would only bump start then. I thought it was just me at the time and him not knowing what to do either.

the e-start will not turn the engine over at all just tries and tries till runs battery down, nor will kick starting the sh!t out of it either. I have a fully charged battery and have taken the carb off and clean it very good and it will now idle but will only bump start.

Also coolant blows out of the engine casing after i let it idle today for about 10 minutes. The radiator has a crack and needs to be replaced, will that cause that blowing out problem.

What suggestions do you guys have for me look for to get this thing running. I have replaced old gas with new ethanol free gas.

I'm in need of help!! i have about exceeded my little bit of knowledge of dirt bikes and these engines. I can do alot of things this is just new to me now.

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Step #1. STOP RUNNING THE ENGINE! STOP ALLOWING THE ENGINE TO IDLE FOR SO LONG! The engine is over-heating & purging excess coolant out of the over-flow. It is normal for this to happen and the way to avoid it happening is to NOT LET THE BIKE SIT & IDLE. If you have not already done so, replace the lost coolant from the cooling system or it will keep over-heating.

Step #2. You need to check the valve clearances. Check them now. Do not do anything else to the bike until you have checked them. Here's a video to help you:

Post back AFTER you have checked the valve clearances and let us know what you find. If you can't do this yourself, it's time to take the bike to a shop and have them check the valves for you. Do not continue to ride the bike until you have checked the valve clearances as you could be doing further damage to the engine running it the way it is. If you need a manual, they are available for free on-line. If you can't find it, let me know & I'll refer you to the link that was given to me.

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Ok I will check the valve clearances. I have not run the bike but one time. Thanks for the help! I will post back with results. (Maybe be a week or 2)

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I would almost guarantee it is a valve issue. I also have an '04. Had the valves adjusted several times. It would last awhile then all of a sudden be hard to almost impossible to start.

Bit the bullet and got new intake valves (stainless steel. Honda is known for having sh!tty valves. Also went ahead with new piston, rings & cam chain). Starts, and runs like a champ now!

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My bike had the same issue. I got new steel valves and a new top end. I recommend the top end. Also check the compression. But if kick does not work either then it's valves.

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"better" is a matter or personal opinion. There are no facts to support that one material is "better" than the other. If you are a hard core rider pushing for every ounce of power the engine has to offer then the titanium (stock) is for you. If you are a beginner to intermediate rider, or one who rarely races, the stainless would be a better choice as they tend to last a little longer. This is all my opinion though. Me personally, I went back with all 4 stainless valves as I'm not a professional racer.

 

As to where to buy them-do a google search for Kibblewhite stainless valves and go from there. Honda Toledo is another good place to check. Whatever you do-DO NOT LET THE SHOP THAT IS CUTTING THE VALVE SEATS SUPPLY THE VALVES. I recently shipped a head out to a very well known head rebuilder and they stuck it to me at $75 PER VALVE. Buy your valves yourself, and send them with the head and let them cut the seats, and install your valves. Most places will cut the seats for between $100-150 or so. If you need guides, and/or valve guide seals, that is going to be extra. I spent $600 on a brand new head ready to install with stainless valves already installed.

 

Don't forget if you go stainless you will have to get the spring kit that works with the stainless valves. Since the stainless is a little heavier, you have to have stronger springs to keep them from floating at high rpm. The titanium springs would probably work with the stainless valves if you never wring the motor out.. But we all know at some point we twist that throttle and let it rev to the moon so get the right springs.

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