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Making the 2013 turn better

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What could I do to make the 2013 take tight corners better and settle into ruts better??

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Are the springs correct for your weight? I weigh about 165lbs w/o gear and race Vet expert. I went one notch softer on springs. Initially, I kept trying to slide forks up in clamps and only run about 95 mm sag hoping it would turn in better but it still seemed to not settle in. It might turn or just want to stand up and climb out of rut. I was getting frustrated. My buddy, who's son is a national level pro, suggested I try more sag. We ended up at 103mm sag with forks in stock position and what a difference. It turns so much better with or without a rut. When I put a new chain on I left one additional link on extending the axle rearward. I think that helped too. I'm actually quite surprised how good it turns....

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I'm about 150 lbs and the sag was at 100mm stock for me and we bumped it up to 105 and it feels like the springs are good, it's just the valving. I had the same problem on my '11

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I'm seriously needing help.. I don't want to go trade my bike In for a Honda, but It honestly handles like shit.. It doesn't lean over good, it feel out of control and I feel like all it wants to do is go in a straight line. I've got about $400 in stuff for the bike, so I don't want to have to switch brands

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Are you really fast? At 150# unless you're crushing it you're probably a full two spring rates too stiff with the stock stuff. Even if you race the A class you may look into softer springs just due to the sheer weight disparity. I was super surprised at the OEM specs, at 185# I was thinking I would have to go up since I always do. I checked race tech's spring calculator and read stock was about right for me... after riding the bike I think I agree, it felt good. Unfortunately I don't have a silver bullet to solve your woes, but would recommend you try as many setting as possible to include proper springs for your weight and/or seeking professional help with valving.

Still, here are some options:

-Have you already tried moving your forks up in the triple clamps? I think it comes from the factory 5mm up, 10mm will yield a very noticeable difference. Since you said it goes straight great, this is probably a really good option. Play with that and you should see a noticeable improvement in how quick she turns.

-I'm not sure if the PC linkage link (or copycat equivalent) is longer than the OEM for 2013, if so, it will drop seat height but also firm things up in the beginning of the travel. A lot of guys swear by these things, but I would make sure that kawi hasn't copied PC's design for 2013 before shelling out $220. It should give you a more positive feel and remove some of the vagueness.

I really think the main issue is you're simply too light for the stock suspension, and you won't be 100% until that is addressed, but trying the above and experimenting with the clickers and oil level may provide an interim fix. My 2013 handles like a dream for me, so there's hope.

Edited by Slow250

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How much free sag do you have to get 105mm race sag. I think it's just too stiff and won't settle in. Also, I would think it would be kicking you all over the place.

I'd call so some reputable suspension shops and ask them before throwing in the towel. This bike will turn well when set up.

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I'm seriously needing help.. I don't want to go trade my bike In for a Honda, but It honestly handles like shit.. It doesn't lean over good, it feel out of control and I feel like all it wants to do is go in a straight line. I've got about $400 in stuff for the bike, so I don't want to have to switch brands

I met someone at the track today who is involved with Lanes Kawasaki UK race team when asking him about the handling he said to move the forks up to the second line . 5 mins later after the adjustment it was like riding a different bike, it now turns into tight corners excellent and stays there. Also the track I was at has a few hills about 200ft plus and the stability was fine hope this helps as it has for me

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