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So I got wiggy about my cheap on off switch...

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The one I added to turn my lights off and on after I installed my rectifier regulator a couple days ago. I bought a nice handlebar switch from the local Cycle Gear last eve and stck it on late last night after the kids went to bed. It is so much nicer than digging in behind the front plate to turn the lights on and off now. Which run off the battery and rec reg now. Nice. Plus, my system is charging the battery too, I tested it and it is putting out right at 13.8vdc at above 2K rpm. Should be good.

Edited by KevinsXR

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Somewhere I read that when you turn the light off, the extra power from the stator exits through the reg/rec in the form of heat. i.e. the reg/rec runs hotter where normally the power exits through the lamp in the form of heat. I wonder if it matters or if it's even true.

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With no light on the regulator on my bike puts out about 17v :excuseme:

That sounds like a fried regulator. 13.8 is great. Repair before more expensive parts are fried as well.

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Somewhere I read that when you turn the light off, the extra power from the stator exits through the reg/rec in the form of heat. i.e. the reg/rec runs hotter where normally the power exits through the lamp in the form of heat. I wonder if it matters or if it's even true.

Doesn't matter, I don't turn the lights off for riding, just when I park it. They run off the battery and rec reg now so they would stay on all the time if I didn't do the switch.

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With no light on the regulator on my bike puts out about 17v :excuseme:

That is way too high. It should not be over 14.2vdc ever....you might see if your rec reg is adjustable.....turn it down! it'll fry your battery, BUT it will be great for the lights!

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That is way too high. It should not be over 14.2vdc ever....you might see if your rec reg is adjustable.....turn it down! it'll fry your battery, BUT it will be great for the lights!

I would be worried that it could fry the CDI when the headlight gets a loose connection, ground fault, burned bulb, etc.

Are those voltage readings with the engine revved?

Edited by Baja Rambler

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My headlight is on AC with a 55/60w bulb with a small rectifier hooked to a battery for my led tail and horn.

P.S. the 17v was with all the lights off which the bike was not designed for, however with the head light on it was running about 13.6v.

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I had it at a high idle.

Not good. If you rev it with a fried reg., the voltage will likely go up into the danger zone. One bad electrical component can have a domino effect on others..

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I would be worried that it could fry the CDI when the headlight gets a loose connection, ground fault, burned bulb, etc.

Are those voltage readings with the engine revved?

Since the stator and pulse coil is seperated completely from the lighting part of the stator, that has nothing to do with one another. Unless the wiring smoked from overvolts, it would never affect each other.
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My headlight is on AC with a 55/60w bulb with a small rectifier hooked to a battery for my led tail and horn.

P.S. the 17v was with all the lights off which the bike was not designed for, however with the head light on it was running about 13.6v.

That is AC voltage. Since you don't have a rectifrie regulator and are running AC only no biggie.

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Since the stator and pulse coil is seperated completely from the lighting part of the stator, that has nothing to do with one another. Unless the wiring smoked from overvolts, it would never affect each other.

Ok, then I would check the voltage going to the CDI unit with engine revved to be sure. I agree that increased voltage to a separate lighting system is not a problem.

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13.6 with lights on is fine. Once it goes through the switch and the small gauge wires it will be down around 12.5 - 12.8 like it should be. Gotta take a reading at the light itself, with it on.

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