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Odometer not working!

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My odometer stopped working a few months ago and I never really used it so I didn't worry about it. But now its annoying me when I want to actually see my mileage, so does anyone know what could be wrong with it? My knowledge of the inner workings of an odometer are close to none, so could anyone explain to me how it works/how I could make it work again? And before you say anything, yes the nob on the left is pushed in, so it SHOULD be working.

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Throw that POS away and get a Trailtech computer. Ken at crfsonly.com can help with the trailtech and the wheel spacer. Or you could use a dedicated GPS (eTrex or the like) or your smartphone to track your distance covered.

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And before you say anything, yes the nob on the left is pushed in, so it SHOULD be working.

Well that would be the simple answer wouldn't it? But just to cover the bases, pull the knob out and push it back in if you haven't already done so.

It's a pretty simple setup really. If it's still not working, then the next guess would be that you didn't get the locking tabs in the correct spot when putting the front wheel on, which means it's crushed together and can't turn. Take the front wheel off and check. This is a very common mistake.

Next is the cable; it may be snapped. Last would be the unit itself.

and a Trail Tech computer would not be a bad idea.

Jim.

Edited by JimDettman

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BTW, you can check that without even taking the wheel off. Here's a pic:

IMG_0356_notes_zps104709ff.jpg

If the black piece is out to the left more then the hub (when looking from the front of the bike), you didn't get the tabs lined up.

Jim.

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I'm not going to be home until tonight, but could you tell me how I would line up the tabs / get them seated correctly if that was the issue?

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In the picture, under the black piece, there is a white gear with two tabs on it. On the hub side, there are two slots the tabs fit into.

It's really simple and harder to explain.

What's hard though is keeping the black piece seated right and getting it all back on the bike and the spacers and axel in.

Jim.

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As Jim states there are two slots inside the black plastic drive gear housing that mate up with 2 tabs that are part of the hub. It can be difficult to keep the black plastic piece in the right position while positioning the wheel for the axle. What I did was pack the inside of the black plastic drive gear housing full of water-proof grease so that it was stuck on the hub and would not come off unless you grabbed it and pulled it pretty hard. The grease works well enough that you don't have to worry about it moving while you are focusing on lining everything else up.

If you find that is not your problem, twist the cable where it comes out of the sheath with your fingers and check to see if the odo registers. I'm not sure which way to twist the cable so you better twist it both directions. If the odo does not register after twisting the cable, then the cable may be broken inside the sheath, or the odo itself may be the issue.

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I know I haven't posted here in a long time (I'm very tied up with schoolwork and marching band) but one of my fork seals started leaking so I was cleaning them out. And to reach one of the screws to remove the suspension guards, I had to unscrew the odometer cap. I saw this and I wanted to know if it was supposed to look like that. Or is my odo broken?

1379376129378.jpg

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Alright, heres an update: It does need to be replaced. I'm guessing that some gunk got up into the wire and caused it to bunch up and get twisted. I'm buying a new interior wire and it should be here in a few days!

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I really want to post something smart a** but yeah, that cable is done.

Hahahaha, I was writing these from my phone as I worked, but I should've just kept the phone in my pocket! I ended up figuring it out 😛

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