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tore the bike apart a little

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So I decided to fix two things, and see if there were any other things wrong with the bike. I just recently got it, and burnt up the clutch, so that was the main reason to get into the bottom end. I realized quickly that I don't have a clutch holder tool, so that I can take the clutch apart. Clutch should come in the mail on monday, got the ebc kit with everything.

So that looks all fine and dandy, the other thing I was going to fix was the stator. I knew I wanted a lot of power, and it didn't look like I had much as the headlight looked a little dim running off of the bikes direct ac power. So I bought a brand spankin new ricky high output stator. After tearing the stator cover off, I quickly found a reason to bang my head as it looked like there was already a ricky stator in there, or one with close to as many watts. Whoops... So I'll probably be selling a xr600 ricky stator brand new here in a bit.

Other thing I noticed when I pulled the stator cover off, was that one of the bolt holes was totally mangled, and a big chunk was missing, right where some crusty sandy oil was pooled up. I cleaned it off before the picture. So I got a small leak there, any ideas on a fix?

This does look like a high output stator right?

Anything else I should do while im waiting on parts? Is there any tool I can use other than the clutch puller? Where do I get that if thats what I have to use? Thanks guys.

photo (24).JPG

bolt flange stripped off, leaking a little bit of oil out of there.

photo (23).JPG

little box with wires coming out, there was a ton of metal shavings piled up on it that I wiped off

photo (22).JPG

high output stator, right???

photo (21).JPG

transmission, looks okay..

photo (20).JPG

flywheel spin hole cap... stripped. Ordered a new one so I can do valves... how do I get this one out? haha

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This also looks like a good place to brag that my clarke 5 gallon tank came in today and I got a 2009 crf250r fcr mx carb off ebay that should be coming next week.

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In pic with clutch, noticed two different colored washers, & the bolt heads maybe different also??? I dont know if there is a hardness requirement for those bolts, but if it were me, I'd make sure they are right for application, before buttoning up & far away from home.

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Yea the peep hole is fine, this one is the one where you put the ratchet on the flywheel to turn it to tdc. I already ordered a new cap

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I'm thinking about using putty epoxy to patch the hole in picture one. I've heard of people patching crank shaft leaks with it on the trail and also heard that the stuff is strong enough to tap bolts into. I would just scratch / clean, stuff it in and drill it out.

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I dont remember the sizw, but theres a Standard (not metric) allen thats just a hair bigger, tap in in with a hammer(i guess you need a socket allen) the bit should sink in enough. Heat it and tap on it first.

Metal shavings on your pulse generator? Not good in my opinion. Something inside aint right. Thats a fact. So be aware for any noises down the line if youre not splitting cases and actually looking at tranny gears.

Your clutch, if the jugs off, put a wrench or something with a rag on it through the rod small end. Or wood blocks under piston. Take pressure plate off. Vise clamp a few pads and steels together. Then use a 27mm socket and a breaker bar. But if your not taking the basket off and splitting cases i wouldn't worry if its just springs and plates youre doing.

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I dont remember the sizw, but theres a Standard (not metric) allen thats just a hair bigger, tap in in with a hammer(i guess you need a socket allen) the bit should sink in enough. Heat it and tap on it first.

Metal shavings on your pulse generator? Not good in my opinion. Something inside aint right. Thats a fact. So be aware for any noises down the line if youre not splitting cases and actually looking at tranny gears.

Your clutch, if the jugs off, put a wrench or something with a rag on it through the rod small end. Or wood blocks under piston. Take pressure plate off. Vise clamp a few pads and steels together. Then use a 27mm socket and a breaker bar. But if your not taking the basket off and splitting cases i wouldn't worry if its just springs and plates youre doing.

You don't think the metal shavings could just be from the clutch do you? It was smoking pretty bad when it burned up. I plan to inspect the clutch basket for notching before I replace the plates and springs. Yeah I decided to buy a clutch puller tool from tusk for 15$. It's basically a fancy vice grip that fits the clutch basket fingers.

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While i'm in here... is the nx650 fifth gear swap a hard mod to do? How much does that gear cost and where do I get it, is that the only thing I need?

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Haha! Im right at that point too. Many threads on that. It is a simple mod. Obtaining it is not. Ill pm you the info i have. Ive heard 120-150 usd. The nx650 gear is only in Europe and Japan i guess.

If youre goin in, youll find the source of shavings. Youre clutch burning, in my opinion, burnt out the fiber plates and warped the steels. ,lowered stack height. If you have notches and and basket metal wouldn't be magnetic. I think. I had notches and a clean pulse box, and non magnetic shavings everywhere from thrust washers...ya i was cheap but the actual tool looks great. Ill buy it eventually.

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Is it incredibly difficult to get pictures the right way up..Edit them with paint in Windows and rotate them,,or edit them with the Droid/Linux picture viewer if it's a mobile phone..my heads spinning in all directions to work out what we're looking at..

Wouldn't worry about picture one..File off what's left so it's flat and put a bit of the red hard stuff on it..clean it up when it's dry and use a shorter bolt,,don't overtighten it..

Wouldn't worry about whats on the pulse genny,,Looks pretty clean to my eyes,,wipe it off and carry on..However in saying that..check the front frame downtube filter and replace the normal oil filter,,Make sure you get the new filter the correct way around and orientated properly,, check oil flow to the head after you've changed it and the oil in the engine and frame and fired it up for the first time..Don't ride it anywhere without checking flow to the head..

Yes looks like some sort of other stator..

You don't,,looks welded,,just undo it for timing mark inspection purposes,,just like a normal one but use a spanner..

Edited by Horri

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Thanks for the replies! Dumb question, how do I go about checking flow to the head? Taking a valve cap off and looking? The picture of the pulse generator was taken after the metal was wiped off. There was a good pile

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The line that goes from the top of the clutch cover to the back of the head.. Its a small diameter pipe..

With the bike running take a 10mm socket and slightly undue the bolt connecting the top of the line to the head.. Its a banjo bolt... And when you undue it (just a little) oil will start oozing out and you know theres pressure and fluid flowing.

Its not exactly clean and you will get some oil dripped onto the cylinder, but when you get good at this and can undue then quickly tighten the bolt its no big deal

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Ok. So I'm guessing with the oil filter installed incorrectly you wouldn't have flow to the head?

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Well you would just hit the metal plate in the back and not actually go through the filter.. It would restrict the flow a lot and eventually you would most likely "starve the head" just because that's usually what heats up first

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I had metal shavings on my pulse genny.. Wiped them off and moved on. Not to dispute anyone saying its not supposed to be there but it is what it is. You'll need the tusk crankcase splitter to get the cases off.. Or some serious ingenuity.

Just watch out for the washers at the ends of the counter and main shafts. They tend to fall out when putting the tranny shafts back in.

Little bit of moly paste works well to keep the washer up against the edge.. Learned this for the washers on the starter gears.. Dont want them slipping into the flywheel

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