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What did you do to your Yamaha YZ 2 stroke today?

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Made some titanium "universal" hour meter mounts. Cut some prototypes yesterday. Needs a small tweak, but it's going to work great. Super light. They're too small to sandblast, so I'm going to try a harbor freight tumbler to knock the edges off. Hope to make them available in two weeks.

 

 

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Posted (edited)
On 9/30/2020 at 2:23 PM, k.g said:

Made some titanium "universal" hour meter mounts. Cut some prototypes yesterday. Needs a small tweak, but it's going to work great. Super light. They're too small to sandblast, so I'm going to try a harbor freight tumbler to knock the edges off. Hope to make them available in two weeks.

 

 

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Like how you routed the hour meter.  That is sick actually.  I hated having the works connection one on the frame.  I like seeing it easily.  Was that an easy install?

Another question.  I see the stabilizer pin, and the vent tube route.  Do these two interfere with each other at all?  Do you have a solution for the stabilizer hitting it if it does?  

Edited by FLO_Rida

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Posted (edited)

I put my meter next to the throttle. Your install is a lot cleaner 🙂

 

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Edited by skyak
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Posted (edited)

I put mine on that vacant spot of the frame on the right side, just in front of the tank.  I used self stick HD Velcro to hold it on.  It seems QUITE secure.  I don't have a pix of it.  

Edited by motoxvet

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Velcro on left side in front of tank. I think I used my own industrial strength Velcro. If it falls off, it's still attached by the wire. I have many pictures of mine, since I take a photo after every ride, and sometimes before. :-)

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 Ever since they started including tachs with them I’ve run them on the number plate mount. Never had a problem with Velcro but the ti is nice.

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Posted (edited)
18 hours ago, Kinger317 said:

 Ever since they started including tachs with them I’ve run them on the number plate mount. Never had a problem with Velcro but the ti is nice.

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Where did you take that picture, in a photobooth????  Look at all that white light!!!  Oh I know what you did......  You were performing a backflip, and this is the gopro shot you have being upside down looking at the sky!!!  Got it now!  Makes sense too. Look at the tach, you are maxed out, mid flip!!  

Edited by FLO_Rida
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3 hours ago, FLO_Rida said:

Where did you take that picture, in a photobooth????  Look at all that white light!!!  Oh I know what you did......  You were performing a backflip, and this is the gopro shot you have being upside down looking at the sky!!!  Got it now!  Makes sense too. Look at the tach, you are maxed out, mid flip!!  

 You know me too well 😎

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Had a phone conversation with Tony Alessi yesterday. He bought 3 sets of my titanium seat brackets. He had really good things to say about them, so that's cool. Seemed like a nice guy.

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2 hours ago, TwoFiddyYZ said:

I ordered 2020 graphics from Rocky Mountain about a month ago because the site said they was in stock. Well so far I got the left side...

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Don't mean to be a jerk but that chain looks really tight😬

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A little high heat paint for my pipe. I know it won't last long, but I just want to at least have a brief period where my rebuild feels and looks fairly new. The rubbed off paint and rust just bothered me a lot, so I painted it. Here's a little before and after.

Before:

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After:

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On 10/9/2020 at 7:03 AM, k.g said:

Had a phone conversation with Tony Alessi yesterday. He bought 3 sets of my titanium seat brackets. He had really good things to say about them, so that's cool. Seemed like a nice guy.

He is a nice guy. We race his AME series in SoCal and know he is all about racing. Congrats!

My boy worked on scrubbing today. 2018 yz65 

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Nothing major. Swapped out a bunch of old bolts with new ones to freshen it up a little aesthetically. 

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On 9/29/2020 at 2:41 PM, numroe said:

A surge on decel might be caused by an air leak. Have you already gone down that path?  I guess you're thinking the carb slide leaks air?

My YZ250 has the same problem. Lean surging after decel.  But only when the motor is hot. Let it cool and it runs fine again.  About 20 hrs ago I replaced the right side case-half. Recently replaced the crank seals and intake gaskets but no joy.  The mating surface for the cylinder base gasket has a small step, maybe 0.1mm on the centre join. At the time of the case half swap I was in a slight rush and hoped the 0.6mm thick base gasket could deform to cope with the step. Pretty dumb, I know! Because the gasket is probably slightly ripped and now porous.  I'm guessing that's my leak issue. I going to try block-sand the alum surface flat with the studs and piston removed and some rags in the case around the rod.  Bit of a hack-job when the rod is in the way, but I'll give it a go to avoid the full split.  If it sands well but still has the problem then I guess I'd didn't bond the case halves correctly, but I think I'm careful to clean and evenly bond them. So shall see.   Any ideas most welcome.

Did you solve the lean surge issue? 

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Wadded up the yz the other day in some fast whoops in the single track. Had to remove the AHIS bar mounts as I bent the mount bolts. Bolts are 10mm dia. Stainless so I guess it was a pretty hard hit. The bar mounts are fine...crash testing has proven them pretty tough. Rode a bunch of technical stuff yesterday with the stock mounts. My 57 y/o hands and arms aren’t happy today. Brian at BKE Racing is sending me out new bolts. Can’t wait to get the mounts back on. 

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3 hours ago, MxGringo said:

Did you solve the lean surge issue? 

Yes I did solve it.  I forgot to reply here. The problem was a leaking cylinder base, only when the motor was fully heated up or slightly over-heated.

I removed the cylinder and noticed that the mating surface near the transfer ports on the right side had some gouges where someone used a screw driver the pry the cylinder off. Also this replaced case right-half wasn't perfectly flat along the centre join with the original left half. The step was about 0.1mm.  I don't know which fault caused the leak but one or both must have leaked. 

To fix it, I removed the cylinder studs, stuffed clean rags around the rod, and with a 4x2" balsa timber block I flat sanded the base mating surface with 360 grit dry paper.  Ended with 600 grit.  Eliminating the step and creating a little more flat bond surface around the right transfer ports. I air blow cleaned the case out for peace of mind.  Instead of using a new 0.6mm thick gasket I used two 0.3mm gaskets each one with a thin layer of ThreeBond to seal it to the alum on one side. Torqued the cylinder down with the wet Threebond and it has worked well for 3 rides since then. Really happy with it.

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1 hour ago, numroe said:

Yes I did solve it.  I forgot to reply here. The problem was a leaking cylinder base, only when the motor was fully heated up or slightly over-heated.

I removed the cylinder and noticed that the mating surface near the transfer ports on the right side had some gouges where someone used a screw driver the pry the cylinder off. Also this replaced case right-half wasn't perfectly flat along the centre join with the original left half. The step was about 0.1mm.  I don't know which fault caused the leak but one or both must have leaked. 

To fix it, I removed the cylinder studs, stuffed clean rags around the rod, and with a 4x2" balsa timber block I flat sanded the base mating surface with 360 grit dry paper.  Ended with 600 grit.  Eliminating the step and creating a little more flat bond surface around the right transfer ports. I air blow cleaned the case out for peace of mind.  Instead of using a new 0.6mm thick gasket I used two 0.3mm gaskets each one with a thin layer of ThreeBond to seal it to the alum on one side. Torqued the cylinder down with the wet Threebond and it has worked well for 3 rides since then. Really happy with it.

Great work. 

I hope I'll find my air leak when my tester is completed. Should be at the end of next week

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