Annoying starting issues

[lemontree]

Hey folks. I am really to my wits end about this one - it's been particularly frustrating in the mornings and cold nights causing me to be late for work  ..

 

I have a DRZ400SM '09 that starts when it feels like it. Every morning when I start the bike it would just crank fine for a few seconds until I give it some throttle (while in Neutral) and then dies. 

 

Also, once I turn it on and then pull out half-way choke, the bike dies too - it sounds like the fuel line or something is not getting through the carb/engine? There is a work around for this, I throttle open and pull out half choke simultaneously to prevent it from dying.

 

The only way to get the bike back up and running is to clutch start it as the bike won't crank over after the first failed attempt.

 

I have heard that DRZ are generally a bitch to start in the cold but I am only talking about 17c here in an Australian morning. Could it be a fading battery?

 

Any thoughts and ideas?

Edited August 6, 2013 by lemontree

[shift1313]

Is the bike stock? My bike when stock never had issues down to 30f. Never rode it colder than that.

[lemontree]

Hi Shift, sorry I forgot to mention specs. Yes, stock DRZ400 with only a FMF Q4 muffler.

[shift1313]

Was the carb rejetted? They are very lean factory and any mods will only make it worse. Does it surge at steady throttle when cruising around?

Hi Shift, sorry I forgot to mention specs. Yes, stock DRZ400 with only a FMF Q4 muffler.

[lemontree]

Was the carb rejetted? They are very lean factory and any mods will only make it worse. Does it surge at steady throttle when cruising around?

 

 

 

 

No rejets on the carb at all. Bike behaves fine when cruising around. Just getting it to start is an issue. Bike idles fine after a few minutes warming up. I am just curious why the bike will die as soon as I pull out the choke without pumping some throttle?

[150ron]

Try turning your fuel screw another turn out,  so its at 2.5-3 turns out,   should start up instantly,  if not,  try a bigger pilot jet,  you should get a jet kit and do the 3X3 mod imo. 

[lemontree]

Try turning your fuel screw another turn out,  so its at 2.5-3 turns out,   should start up instantly,  if not,  try a bigger pilot jet,  you should get a jet kit and do the 3X3 mod imo. 

 

Eventually, I will do the 3x3 + Jetting but I am just a little annoyed why a stock DRZ may be experiencing these problems.. Here's hoping a 3x3 and Jetting will cure it!

[150ron]

Eventually, I will do the 3x3 + Jetting but I am just a little annoyed why a stock DRZ may be experiencing these problems.. Here's hoping a 3x3 and Jetting will cure it!

Certain bikes are lean from the factory,  to meet certain MPG guidelines or what not,    my previous bike was impossible to start,  a total night mare,  until i read on the forums about turning the fuel screw to 3 turns out,  (it was only at 1 1/2 turns out),  once i put it at 3 turns out,  it started up instantly,   with the DRZ tho,  i never had any issues,  even when it was stock,  before i did the 3X3 and rejet,   your pilot jet might be partially clogged too. 

[JoeMongo]

Certain bikes are lean from the factory, to meet certain MPG guidelines or what not, my previous bike was impossible to start, a total night mare, until i read on the forums about turning the fuel screw to 3 turns out, (it was only at 1 1/2 turns out), once i put it at 3 turns out, it started up instantly, with the DRZ tho, i never had any issues, even when it was stock, before i did the 3X3 and rejet, your pilot jet might be partially clogged too.

What Ron said. My (nearly) stock DRZ has always started extremely easy, hot, cold, sea level, high altitude, whatever. If you are trouble, I recommend ordering a DRZ specific JD jet kit and an extended fuel screw, do the 3X3 mod, and follow the instructions exactly. I can ride my bike any where and always starts easy and runs predictably.

[brucen]

Turning out the fuel screw will help the bike start easier, but to do that you have to pull the carb to take out the plug over the screw. Pulling the carb is a real pain. As long as you go to that much trouble you may as well do the full 3x3 mod. It is worth it.

[shift1313]

Why are you pulling out the choke after its running? With a slip on, even stock you need to adjust the fuel screw to make it run right. The bike dying when you pull the choke indicates a pilot fuel issue possibly. The bike at this point is 5 years old, could be crud in the carb.

No rejets on the carb at all. Bike behaves fine when cruising around. Just getting it to start is an issue. Bike idles fine after a few minutes warming up. I am just curious why the bike will die as soon as I pull out the choke without pumping some throttle?

[GuyGraham]

sounds like mine when it was stock

Would start OK on choke, but the slightest load on the engine with the throttle just off the stop, and it would die. Cold mornings were a joke. Even with the choke on, it would die when trying to pull off, sometimes just blipping the throttle would cause it to die

 

Its coz the needle is very lean off idle - emissions crap

adjusting the fuel screw doesn't help coz its just past the point where it has any effect

 

I did the 3x3 with a DJ kit and it cured it completely becuase of the new needle

 

My advice is do the 3x3 now with a DJ or JD ket kit and your troubles will disappear

Edited August 6, 2013 by GuyGraham

[shift1313]

Needle has nothing to do with idle. You aren't on the needle until about 1/4 throttle. It's all pilot circuit. 1/4 to 3/4 for the needle and 3/4 to wot is main....roughly

sounds like mine when it was stock

Would start OK on choke, but the slightest load on the engine with the throttle just off the stop, and it would die. Cold mornings were a joke. Even with the choke on, it would die when trying to pull off, sometimes just blipping the throttle would cause it to die

Its coz the needle is very lean off idle - emissions crap

adjusting the fuel screw doesn't help coz its just past the point where it has any effect

I did the 3x3 with a DJ kit and it cured it completely becuase of the new needle

My advice is do the 3x3 now with a DJ or JD ket kit and your troubles will disappear

[Corrad]

Check your air filter as well. Sounds funny but mine was having a b!tch of a time starting after it sat inside for a week on account of the rain. Bike struggled to start but would run normal once warm. Washing the bike after a short ride I popped the air filter cover off and there was a big mouse house in the air box! cleaned and re oiled the air filter and now I can just bump the starter and its running. The bike is touchy when its chilly in the morning though, usually has to idle for a min or two before you touch the throttle. 

[lemontree]

Sounds like it's a green light for adjusting the fuel screw and might as well do the 3x3 mod? Looks like I gotta take out all the carby..

[lemontree]

Also, do you think it's possibly the spark plug?

[shift1313]

Wouldn't hurt but it sounds more like a fuel/air mix issue and not spark. While you have the tank off check the plug. I changed in at 25k miles but the bike was fine. Others have had issues.

Also, do you think it's possibly the spark plug?

[GuyGraham]

Needle has nothing to do with idle. You aren't on the needle until about 1/4 throttle. It's all pilot circuit. 1/4 to 3/4 for the needle and 3/4 to wot is main....roughly

 

 

I didn't say idle, I said just off idle. The needle plain diameter is working in conjunction with the pilot.

I agree the needle taper doesn't come into effect til about 1/4.

 

Its the needle plain diameter section with is too big and hence cause it to be too lean

 

To the OP - ditch the Suzuki needle and get the DJ or JD kit and it will sort out your problem

[shift1313]

I didn't say idle, I said just off idle. The needle plain diameter is working in conjunction with the pilot.

I agree the needle taper doesn't come into effect til about 1/4.

Its the needle plain diameter section with is too big and hence cause it to be too lean

To the OP - ditch the Suzuki needle and get the DJ or JD kit and it will sort out your problem

Needle taper and plain diameter go into the main set. Fuel screw is in the pilot circuit unless I am mis understanding what you are saying.

[Bluelunatic]

Another idea is your idle screw may have been bumped. Try turning it to the right (clockwise) 1/10th of a turn to bump up the idle a little. The relationship between the idle and the fuel screw is very sensitive. I'm going through tuning issues and a fouled spark plug right now on a re-built bike. I have a manual petcock and I found that shutting off the gas and draining the float is the only way to get it restarted once I've tried four or five times and whacking the throttle open while re-starting. I get an instantly flooded carb and can not restart it until I drain the carb and shut off the gas.