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How do I properly adjust my clutch cable?

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I've always thought I had issues with my carb cause my bike won't idle but yesterday I realized I had it all set right to the best of my knowledge.  I have a 2005 YZ250F with 290cc big bore.

 

I had the thing idling in my driveway for 10 minutes.  As soon as I pop it into gear it idles for maybe 10 seconds and stalls.  If I put the bike in gear and hold the clutch in and spin the wheel, it's pretty stiff and hard to do so.

 

I have very slight slack on the lever adjustment.  If I tighten it up, it doesn't seem to help.  I have no clue how to adjust the bottom portion of the cable, or how to properly do it.  Does anyone know how or have a good guide I can follow?

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Sounds normal to me.

If you're trying to spin the rear wheel with the tranny in neutral and the engine off, it will seem hard because of clutch drag.

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What about a loud click when I put it into 1st gear with clutch pulled in?  It lunges forward a tad sometimes when I do this too.  I had the motor done about a year and a half ago and hand't ridden the bike that much since then and the mechanic told me the clutch looked good but to me it sounds like the clutch is having issues.

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I have a similar issue with my wife's WR250.  I can adjust the cable at the lever to help a little but nothing will get rid of the slight pulling when I shift into 1st gear.  I have taken it to the shop and they said that the clutch plates get worn and the only way to fix the issue is to do a clutch overhaul.  Not sure if this is true or not but it doesn't bother her enough to spend the $700.  If I was going to spend the cash I would probably throw in a recluse clutch for her.

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I have a similar issue with my wife's WR250.  I can adjust the cable at the lever to help a little but nothing will get rid of the slight pulling when I shift into 1st gear.  I have taken it to the shop and they said that the clutch plates get worn and the only way to fix the issue is to do a clutch overhaul.  Not sure if this is true or not but it doesn't bother her enough to spend the $700.  If I was going to spend the cash I would probably throw in a recluse clutch for her.

This was my thought as well.  If the clutch is going, I'm getting a recluse.  I just wish my bike would idle with the clutch engaged and I'm in gear!

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Just to correct what I posted above, I should have written that spinning the rear wheel with the transmission in gear (not neutral) with the clutch pulled in will result in clutch drag.

 

Lots of bikes I've owned will jump forward a bit when putting it in 1st gear for the first time that day.

It's because the oiled clutch plates tend to stick together after sitting between rides.

 

Some, like the 2009 CRF-450X I used to ride, would stall the engine every time when selecting 1st gear for the first time on the day, but restarting, putting it in gear, and riding the bike for a bit cures the situation for the rest of the day.

 

The 2002 WR-250F I now ride does this about 50% of the time.

After I get moving, the transmission selects 1st gear from neutral just fine.

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I have an 06 and it does this as well. As the oil/ plates heat up I have to start messing around with the cable fine adjustment, next to the clutch lever. I do not know if it is normal or not, thought someone would cover that when answering your question.

 

One of the teachers at a Yamaha school told me that the normal cable slack is 1/4", and I find mine working ok like that.

 

have you tried to fine tune the cable slack?

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Just talked to my dealer and it costs about $170 for new plates and springs not installed.  He says it is pretty easy to change them out.

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Most of Yamaha's 250f's drag the clutch when cold. And new plates might not necessarily fix this issue! It has to do with many things, one of them being the flow of oil thru the clutch pack while the engine is running. The oil flowing thru them isn't all that substantial, so they tend to stick together for the first ride of the day, or when just starting out. The simple remedy is too pull in the clutch lever for 30 seconds or more, while the engine is warming up. Then when your ready to go, simply shift into gear and you usually won't have the "lunge" or stalling issue. This is due to the fact that you've been holding the clutch plates apart and have been allowing oil to flow thru them, lessening the chance that there sticking together. Another design limitation is that even with the clutch lever pulled in completely, the clutch pressure plate still isn't far enough away from the clutch pack to completely eliminate clutch drag. If you read the "stickies" at the top, you will find that you can do the "79 cents" clutch fix to help relieve this issue.

 

It's located in the FAQ's section #11, which sends you to a link about how to do this mod, which almost always solves the issues all of you are describing. About the only time it doesn't fix the issues is when the clutch basket is so grooved out that it needs replacement.

 

Maniac

Edited by MANIAC998

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yeah, I did read about the washer "fix". But if I open the cover to take a look, might as well replace the plates as well, since I would probably open it up to check the condition of the basket. Do I need any special tools to open the clutch/ replace the plates? Thanks for the info

 

BTW, I do not mind the drag, got used to it. Is the constant fiddling with the clutch cable that annoys me. 

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I had the same issue, mine would even creep forward after warmed up and stopped in 1st gear with the clutch pulled. I tried the 79 cent fix and it didn't work. I pulled the clutch plates out to inspect them and the frictions were all fine but the steel plates were blued and warped. I replaced all the steels for $22 and left the washers in too and now my clutch is like butta!

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