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Newly Machined Cylinder Head Cannot Fit - KDX220

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I cannot fit this head back on.

 

This head was machined by RB Designs and there are no stud holes that are countersunk on the cylinder mating surface.

 

Should the holes be countersunk?

 

When I fit the head on over the stud bolts, it will not go down any further and seems to be caught on the top of the studs.

 

Any thoughts on how I can slide this head down over the studs without forcing it down?

 

 

 

Byte

Edited by Byte
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I cannot fit this head back on.

This head was machined by RB Designs and there are no stud holes that are countersunk on the cylinder mating surface.

Should the holes be countersunk?

When I fit the head on over the stud bolts, it will not go down any further and seems to be caught on the top of the studs.

Any thoughts on how I can slide this head down over the studs without forcing it down?

Byte

With-out pics everyone responding is gonna be blind. Especially when having fitting problem where involves a machined head. ;)

Post pics and detailed ones if possible.

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head1.jpg

 

head5.jpg

 

head4.jpg

 

head3.jpg

 

head2.jpg

 

The head has been applied straight onto the bolt studs to no avail.

 

 

 

Byte

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Three things I can think of.

1- your studs are bent in different directions which I doubt.

2- the holes in the head have burrs left behind from the machining.

3- the head is warped but I doubt that as well.

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Thanks for your ideas Holy.  Really good thinking.

 

How can I check to ensure the studs are indeed not bent in different directions?

 

The holes in head do not have any burs left over.

 

Head is not warped.

 

 

Would it be ok to countersink the holes in the head (mating surface)?

 

 

Byte

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outsider perspective since I don't own your model but fit lots of heads   you should try a 1  peice triple  head  LOL

and all Kaw 810's suggestions  were valid

 

 

 

the cylinder head holes aren't chamfered from the factory  on yours (Google) and all  that would do is help center a missalinged stud

 

so if your not getting this head  (known to fit before )  to go down at all you have a tweaked stud  you could pull the gasket up  and use it for referance on the stud tops

 

or it looks like  you have enough room you should see whats interfering by eye  between the head and cyl ? then nut up the stud  so you don't damage the threads ant tweak it back into alingment

 

if it's going down on to the threaded area of the studs but not the sholders of the studs near the base  you probably need to persueade it  AKA tap it down

 

to answer your chamfer question

I would say you could chamfer the bolt holes   (minimal) a little bit if you want  just don't leave any high areas to interfear with the gasket sealing

 

the chamfer  might help align the studs on the way down and not copramise any threads    but that what I might do   what you do is up to you  LOL

Edited by Zimman

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Loosen the head bolts via large vise grips and a little heat if really siezed. Once you break them free it may give you the play to get all the bolts aligned and started. Then while you have the bolts started and middle of bolts still exposed use needle nose vise grips to re-snug them before head is seated. Tighten bolts to spec and ur good.

Or find out which one or few are miss aligned and use rubber mallet to align/bend them.

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thanks guys.

 

I forgot to mention before that all studs were replaced with brand new ones.

 

Byte

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Is there any one particular stud that doesn't want to go into it's hole? If all the studs are straight, there are no burrs on the edges of the holes, and you have to have the head completely square with the cylinder (you try to start it on there the slightest bit crooked, and it ain't going to go), it should slide right on there. Machining the head isn't going to change the orientation of the holes, has to be something else. 

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thanks billy - will check and report back.

 

I am thinking the studs are now not straight or aligned.

 

Byte

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Hi.

 

I have just double checked.

 

2 studs are not exactly true and need to be loosened up perhaps?

 

how to make sure they are straight and yet will need to be re-torqued into the same depth?

 

highmarker - I am fighting the top of the studs which will not allow the head to glide on easily - no bulged areas observed.

 

 

byte

Edited by Byte

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Hi.

I have just double checked.

2 studs are not exactly true and need to be loosened up perhaps?

how to make sure they are straight and yet will need to be re-torqued into the same depth?

highmarker - I am fighting the top of the studs which will not allow the head to glide on easily - no bulged areas observed.

byte

Thats normally the case...

Thats why I posted what to do... don't worry about the pre- torque.. just snug them once the head marries up. Then torque them when the head is seated. Remember star pattern while torqueing.

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Thanks Pat.

 

OK - made the stud adjustment - all sweet now with head just gliding on.  Thanks

 

 

 

Byte

Edited by Byte
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