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Arrrrrr. Starter switch broken and fried starter motor

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Hello all!

I had a ride yesterday up in the hills, a few get offs unfortunately as it was tough going.

Anyway, the yellow button starter switch broke inside the housing and has push all the way in (the plastic base for the switch cracked) because it was inside the housing it was always engaging the starter motor while riding. I was in some tough country miles from the car so I had to ride it out. When I got back the starter had stopped engaging and was red hot so I think it's stuffed.

Found a OEM starter motor and switch assembly on eBay but its for a DRZ 250! Would any one know if they would go in my 400?

Cheers......

Dave!

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Where in Oz are you located ?

 

I think the answer to your question is..... NO !! (but I have been wrong many times before)

 

As far as I could establish the Z starter also fits: Arctic Cat 400, Kawasaki KSF400 KFX400 KLZ400 and Suzuki LTZ400 ATV (you could try searching these on eBay)

 

The cheapest starting motor I could find is no longer listed but you could contact the seller and see if they still have any..... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/130859261620?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

 

As for the magic button, have you priced it from your local stealer ? I had prob's with my start button a while back and my local dealer had one on hand and the price was not toooooo outrageous.

 

Good luck.

 

 

EDIT: Pull your starting motor and check it out, if it has just killed the brushes - OEM brush kits are quite cheap now

Edited by Mad Dogg W

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Good on ya mad dog.

I will go and see them tomorrow just in case they do have something!

I'll look up those starter motors as suggested, have just been watching some you tube clips on repairing and replacing bushes etc, ill pull it apart and look for anything obvious before looking for a whole new starter.

I'm in eastern Victoria and ride the local stuff north of Sale with mates from work!

How about yourself?

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Found a OEM starter motor and switch assembly on eBay but its for a DRZ 250! Would any one know if they would go in my 400?

No, much different part.

Starter from any year DRZ S or E will work, as will a starter from a Kawasaki KLX400SR (2003 only in the US, other years after in different export markets)

 

as well as the  LTZ400

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EDIT: Pull your starting motor and check it out, if it has just killed the brushes - OEM brush kits are quite cheap now

It's worth a look...

But if it is as bad as the OP stated, I'd expect to find the commutator and Brushes both worn/damaged badly.. and likely the grease cooked out ot the bearings, bushings damaged.

 

 

Also have a good look at the torque limiter. 

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Pulled the switch apart and found it busted beyond repair. ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1377495064.592581.jpg

I tried to start it and it kicked over but sounded a little sick, almost like the battery was low. Maybe some hope of repairing instead of replacing, now to pull the starter motor out!

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Pulled the switch apart and found it busted beyond repair. attachicon.gifImageUploadedByThumper Talk1377495064.592581.jpg

I tried to start it and it kicked over but sounded a little sick, almost like the battery was low. Maybe some hope of repairing instead of replacing, now to pull the starter motor out!

 

Mine was busted exactly the same (the phenolic board)... I was out riding, the bike stalled and I couldn't restart it.  I still had power, the lights were on, but pushing the starter button did nothing.  I thought the battery was weak.  Ended up push starting it and getting home.

 

Later I found the switch was busted and it wasn't making contact.  I ended up gluing the board back together and backing it (the board) with a piece of thin sheet aluminum.  It has been working so far!  Sorry I didn't take any pictures.

Edited by bmwpowere36m3

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How did you get the aluminium around the wire that comes out of the back of the switch? How thin was it do you remember?

Good idea, I will try that idea before buying a new switch! Thanks for the idea!

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How did you get the aluminium around the wire that comes out of the back of the switch? How thin was it do you remember?

Good idea, I will try that idea before buying a new switch! Thanks for the idea!

 

From what I remember it was L-shaped, do you have a picture of the broken board/switch from the backside?  The sheetmetal was ~ 1 mm thick.

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Like this ;-)

Made a prototype then the second attempt was made which I was happy with. ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1377721829.545903.jpg

Pretty happy with the outcome, thanks for the idea!

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