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Bike dies idling unless three yellow wired plug is unplugged

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Bike is an 04 S model rejetted with 3x3 mod and mrd exhaust, also MCCT.  Recently moved from Alexandria, VA to Annapolis, MD and this problem seemed to arise after that.   

 

Over the past few weeks when starting the bike it will die when not choked at all.  Full and half choke it will stay running.  I've been attempting to read the "free power MOD" post, but I'm not too swift with electrical items.  I got to the point where I unplug the plug with three yellow wires and the bike runs smoothly with no choke, so whatever this relates to seems to be the issue.  Can anyone help me diagnose this?  When idling it is smooth at 1300-1400 RPMs.  

 

Other notes: key off, battery reads 12 volts.  bike on battery reads 13.5/13.6 volts at idle.  

 

Can you please help me diagnose this so I can get her back up and running.

Edited by Clifford4

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Other notes: key off, battery reads 12 volts.  bike on battery reads 13.5/13.6 volts at idle.

Wait is this with the three yellow wires plugged in or not? So you get 13.5 with the yellow wires plugged in?

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The stator consists of coils that generate power for battery charing and also coils that feed timing information to the CDI box.  When those coils short circuit to each other, the CDI box gets confused and the motor does not run.  By disconnecting the 3 yellow wires your eliminate the battery charging half of the stator and eliminate the false information fed to the CDI.  Of course with the yellow wires disconnected, you have no battery charging.  I suspect if you use an ohm meter on the yellow wires to the stator you will find a low resistance connection between any ground point on the motorcycle and the yellow wires (the wires to the CDI need to be connected for this test).

 

At any rate, if the motor runs better with the yellow wires disconnected, the problem is in the stator some place.

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The stator consists of coils that generate power for battery charing and also coils that feed timing information to the CDI box.  When those coils short circuit to each other, the CDI box gets confused and the motor does not run.  By disconnecting the 3 yellow wires your eliminate the battery charging half of the stator and eliminate the false information fed to the CDI.  Of course with the yellow wires disconnected, you have no battery charging.  I suspect if you use an ohm meter on the yellow wires to the stator you will find a low resistance connection between any ground point on the motorcycle and the yellow wires (the wires to the CDI need to be connected for this test).

 

At any rate, if the motor runs better with the yellow wires disconnected, the problem is in the stator some place.

Attempting to go off of the "Deep Fried Stator" post.  There is no continuity through the three yellow wires while key off, but Ill dig deeper and report back.  

 

Wait is this with the three yellow wires plugged in or not? So you get 13.5 with the yellow wires plugged in?

I get 13.5 volts while the key on/motor on, yellow wires plugged in.  This only happens for a very brief time before the motor shuts off.  

 

 

I feel this has been covered before but what is the next step in this process?  How can I reassure it is the stator?  Appreciate the help thus far.

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Read FAQ and follow the electrical troubleshooting guide.

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Just went through this exact thing with mine.  I was sure it was fuel related and then did the electrical tests and found out I needed a new stator.  I put the new one in and it runs great!

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Just went through this exact thing with mine.  I was sure it was fuel related and then did the electrical tests and found out I needed a new stator.  I put the new one in and it runs great!

how many miles on your bike?

 

sucks hearing about all these stators going bad...

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how many miles on your bike?

 

sucks hearing about all these stators going bad...

20,000

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I just keep a spare one , Handy .... M8

What's the easiest type to throw in?  I've read of some difficulty with aftermarket stators.   Is it safe to say that the issue is the stator if the bike runs smooth with that three yellow wire plug unplugged?

 

$400 for a stator!?!?! wowzers

Edited by Clifford4

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What's the easiest type to throw in?  I've read of some difficulty with aftermarket stators.   Is it safe to say that the issue is the stator if the bike runs smooth with that three yellow wire plug unplugged?

 

$400 for a stator!?!?! wowzers

Hey Clifford, I'm not sure where in VA you are.  I'm a little south of Richmond.  You can get a Ricky Stator for $150.  They aren't bad to do and I'd be happy to lend a hand if you are close enough.  Also you need to look in the FAQ's and do the electrical tests but most commonly if the bike runs with the 3 yellow wires unplugged and dies or won't start with it plugged in then yes, your stator is bad.

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I'm actually in Annapolis, MD now, quite the drive haha. I'm going to test it some more tonight with the volt meter and report back.

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Sorry to bring this back up, but I did some testing today and here is what I found.  I also took the time to do the free power mod

 

Key off, battery at 12v

Key on, bike off: 12v

Key on, bike on: 13v

Key on, bike at 3k RPMs: 14v

 

Does this mean the stator is bad since the bike still dies at idle with no choke.  It seemed to run at 1/2 choke, but shortly after no choke applied it would die.

 

Will order a Ricky Stator tonight, if that is what's wrong, but what is the difference between the Ricky Stator "Assembly" and "OEM Style"?  Roughly $90 difference...

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What are you using for a test meter?

 

 

Key off, battery at 12v-------Low. should be 12.6 at least, hopefully higher

Key on, bike off: 12v------Not possible.  The added load will reduce the voltage especially if it is only 12 to start with

Key on, bike on: 13v------Not bad.  The alternator is working

Key on, bike at 3k RPMs: 14v------Quite good if this reading is correct

 

I would say your stator is good.  At least the part of it used to generate 12 volts.  The coils that feed timing information to the CDI could still be bad.  Is it still true that you have to unplug  the yellow wires for the motor to run?

 

There is another reason for the motor to idle better with the yellow wires unplugged.  Less load on the motor.  It takes power to generate electrical power.

 

I would focus on the carburetor.  How does it run other than at idle?

 

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What are you using for a test meter?

 

 

Key off, battery at 12v-------Low. should be 12.6 at least, hopefully higher

Key on, bike off: 12v------Not possible.  The added load will reduce the voltage especially if it is only 12 to start with

Key on, bike on: 13v------Not bad.  The alternator is working

Key on, bike at 3k RPMs: 14v------Quite good if this reading is correct

 

I would say your stator is good.  At least the part of it used to generate 12 volts.  The coils that feed timing information to the CDI could still be bad.  Is it still true that you have to unplug  the yellow wires for the motor to run?

 

There is another reason for the motor to idle better with the yellow wires unplugged.  Less load on the motor.  It takes power to generate electrical power.

 

I would focus on the carburetor.  How does it run other than at idle?

 

 

 

 

 

Sorry, you are correct, it dropped when key on, bike off to about 11.3/4.  Just using a plain jane digital multimeter for testing set to DCV.  The tests done above had the three yellow wire plugged in.  

 

I did move from Alexandria, VA (Avg elevation above sea level = ~ 300ft) to Annapolis, MD (Avg elevation above sea level = ~90ft), don't really know how much play that would have.

 

I do have the 3x3 mod with MRD ssw with stock carb setup as follows: 160 main, Blue needle 4th clip, 25 pilot jet, Kientech fuel screw.

 

I have ridden the bike, but not comfortably, since I have to keep on the throttle for it to stay running while not choked.  It seems to run good, but I have not ridden it for a month or so now do to whatever is going on with the carb/electrical.  

 

Where should I proceed now?

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OK, thanks for the additional information.  The fact that you see battery voltage at 14 and that it runs OK once past idle, I'd say your alternator (stator) is fine and you need to clean/replace the pilot jet in the carb.  Altitude difference is of no consequence.  You just have a gummed up pilot jet.  The title of this post had me in the wrong direction.  Usually disconnecting the 3 yellow wires indicates an electrical problem.  In this case not.  You do need to charge your battery if it is only 12.0 volts.  That is quite a low charge.

 

I once rode a GS1000 from Seattle to Portland that would not idle.  I figured it would cure itself in that distance.  It didn't.  Not much alternative to getting hands dirty cleaning gummy carbs.

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Have you tried turning up the idle slightly to see if it will run?

 

Ya it'll run with the idle up, but once you let it go it just proceeds to die out...I'll pull the carb today or tomorrow and clean it out..

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Well, replaced the battery and still have the bike dying.  I'm currently seeing if the petcock is leaking.  The oil smells funny, then again I'm not really sure what oil itself smells like, but it does kind of smell like gas if I had to guess, which is why i'm doing the petcock test.  I did the free power mod and am currently charging the new battery.  Seems like the voltage is about 12.5volts when not connected to the bike.  The bike fired right up when I put it on, but died shortly after.  It did seem to stay running slightly longer than before though. 

 

Thoughts?   This is killing me!!

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