CR250 Stopping Power

I rode a friend's '14 KTM 250 SX-F yesterday, I'm sure part of my amazement of the stopping power was the compression, which I am not used to, but I was very impressed with the brakes. I know the Brembos are a big selling point for the pumpkins, and I can see why. (Overall that '14 was a really great bike, a little edgy at slow speeds. Almost blew my knee out when it tried to knife on me in a tight pivot corner).

 

I want to get some stopping power on my CR asap. It's an '04, what are my options? Obviously budget is a big consideration, so maybe start cheapest and go up from there? Thanks  :ride:

Over size front rotor kit and steel braided brake line is a good starting point and of course fresh brake fluid that is bleed properly. CRFStuff.com talks about putting a late model master cylinder off a CRF which also improves the breaking. I have the OS rotor kit and steel brake line. It is no were near the Brembos stuff but a lot better than stock.

Any after market 270mm brake kit. ebc, irp and crf stuff make 280mm kits but they are to powerful for some.

 

And bleed out the old fluid with fresh dot 4. People overlook how much of a difference old crappy fluid effects braking. 

How much do the OS kits run? How do the steel braided lines help? I just did a bleed, seemed to help. Thanks dudes.

Steel lines don't swell under pressure like the stockers do. Oversize kits go for $200 to $350. New pads help on a clean rotor......

 

A little tip for all the brake bleeders out there. Once you have the system set up with new fluid and bleed out, enguage the lever with a zip ty, turn the bars to the master is at it's highest. Then the little tiny bubbles will migrate to the master overnight and escape from. The lever being pulled in lets them thru.

 

An 08 or newer master has either 10 or 15% more pucker power.

I rode a friend's '14 KTM 250 SX-F yesterday, I'm sure part of my amazement of the stopping power was the compression, which I am not used to, but I was very impressed with the brakes. I know the Brembos are a big selling point for the pumpkins, and I can see why. (Overall that '14 was a really great bike, a little edgy at slow speeds. Almost blew my knee out when it tried to knife on me in a tight pivot corner).

 

I want to get some stopping power on my CR asap. It's an '04, what are my options? Obviously budget is a big consideration, so maybe start cheapest and go up from there? Thanks  :ride:

 

You are also comparing to a brand new bike with all brand new parts . I'm sure your bike was better in 2004. You changed the fluid.. That's cheapest.. then just go gradually up.. brake pads, ..a clean disc.. or get a new one.. Those first.. those are the cheapest.. Also you may thing about overhauling your brakes too if you want.. again all in the cheaper range to start..

..for ex.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/All-BALLS-FRONT-BRAKE-Master-Cylinder-Rebuild-Kit-18-1002-/390649855914?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ACR250&hash=item5af48bbfaa&vxp=mtr

 

you can always go to the big rotors etc if you really want to later..

Edited by hawaiidirtrider

You are also comparing to a brand new bike with all brand new parts . I'm sure your bike was better in 2004. You changed the fluid.. That's cheapest.. then just go gradually up.. brake pads, ..a clean disc.. or get a new one.. Those first.. those are the cheapest.. Also you may thing about overhauling your brakes too if you want.. again all in the cheaper range to start..

..for ex.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/All-BALLS-FRONT-BRAKE-Master-Cylinder-Rebuild-Kit-18-1002-/390649855914?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ACR250&hash=item5af48bbfaa&vxp=mtr

you can always go to the big rotors etc if you really want to later..

Yeah that's what I said the second I hopped off! I said there's no substitute for new Brembo parts and ten years of R&D

I wasn't really saying that I was disappointed that my brakes weren't as good as brand new Brembos, sometimes you just don't realize when you're lacking in a certain area until you hop on someone else's steed.

I don't know... My Beta has nissin front brakes and those are awesome. It may just be that it's new.

Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the point of oversized disks were designed to keep the brake system cooler during long periods of riding and little to do with actual stopping power. Yes a cooler disk helps with less fade but compare the two at same temps I'm sure the stopping will be the same. Can someone enlighten me... 

Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the point of oversized disks were designed to keep the brake system cooler during long periods of riding and little to do with actual stopping power. Yes a cooler disk helps with less fade but compare the two at same temps I'm sure the stopping will be the same. Can someone enlighten me...

I may be wrong, but I heard it provides more leverage, the further out it is from the center of the wheel, the less force it takes to provide the same amount of sropping force

zotis is right. A large rotor provides more leverage which makes the wheel easier to stop with the same clamping force.

 

Brakes also work best at a certain temperature range. Too hot, or too cold, and the braking distances get longer. For example, race brake pads MUST be hot for them work, if they are cold, you go to step on the pedal and the car/bike keeps on rolling. 

I may be wrong, but I heard it provides more leverage, the further out it is from the center of the wheel, the less force it takes to provide the same amount of sropping force

 

 

That makes sense.

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