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Why is it such a PITA to start?

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My R is a one or two kick bike when it is either warm or cold...until it ends up on it's side. Then it's a PITA. I know this is common, so what does everyone do to get their pig woke up after a short nap? I've tried the "hold it wide open" trick...no gas....but time seems to be the only constant.

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When on their side, fuel leaks in through the mouth of the carb, flooding it. Hold the compression release in, throttle open, and kick it through three or more times. This gets the fuel run through, hopefully, then try to start it normally.

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when I crash it I always do this : flick the killswitch, hold throttle wide open, hold the decompression in and then give it 5 kicks With some authority, after this ritual I try to start it as normal again, if it doesn't fire in 2 normal kicks I go through the above procedure again.

 

this ALWAYS Works for me after a crash.

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first thing turn petcock off, and if your jetting is rich it will take a lot more then a few cycles...even with lean jetting on my bike or "perfect" jetting for hotstarts on a rough tipover it can take like 10 to 12 kicks to clear the gas...

 

if Im quick to turn the petcock off that is...

 

some guys have to actually take the plug out and cycle through a few times to get new air in...if your quick its actually faster than kicking for 10 minutes...

 

some guys also install a hot start nozzle on the intake tube...what it does is inject clean fresh air..I almost got to the point of doing this before I got my jetting spot on...

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Mine is real bad, also.(stock carb) But I just noticed, when bike is idling, it speeds up within 2-3 seconds after turning petcock off. I bet my float level is too high/full. I'm going to lower level, hopefully soon & let you know. My eddy on my other 600 is great for crashes, & always starts right back up, if it dies on it side. Sometimes it will just idle on its side.

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I've noticed the FCR-MX carb runs for a surprisinly lone time while the bike is on its side, and usually restarts very easily afterward.  I think jetting may be a large factor; the OEM R carb runs rich low speed jetting to compensate for the lack of an accelerator pump.  The FCR carb can be jetted much more crisply.

 

But I am now rigging a cable operated hot start function for those times when the engine gets truly flooded.

 

When clearing a flooded engine with the OEM carb, the trick is to hold the throttle wide open and the decompressor on and not to cycle them on and off with each kick.  I always kicked the engine at leat five times, fairly fairly fast.  That's usually unnecessarily many, but but still faster than trying two de-flood kicks and then going through the normal starting process only to realize that the engine is still flooded.

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Also remember, when doing the flood routine, with wide open throttle, to activate kill button. I always thought it would be stupid, because its not going to start. BUT someone on here, had a back-fire, light their air filter on fire & burnt up entire bike! Now I use my kill switch!

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I've tried about all the mentioned tricks...sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Guess it's just the nature of the beast (or pig).

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when i dropped my xr6 i'd giv her 2-3 half assed kicks just to cycle through then whack the throttle wide open and giv her 1 good kick in the guts and she'd fire first time every time'

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I've tried about all the mentioned tricks...sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Guess it's just the nature of the beast (or pig).

might depend on your bikes setup, how uncorked it is, I see you say uncorked in your signature, but what exactly does that mean? stock exhaust? HRC tip? airfilter cover cutouts? jetting?

my experience when I first got my bike was that the bike would become easier and easier to start as I added more performance mods, both when cold\hot and when flooded.

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I've tried about all the mentioned tricks...sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Guess it's just the nature of the beast (or pig).

 

nope

 

whats your jetting?...it has everything to do with hot starts...

 

the nature of the beast can be tweaked...I set up my bike for nice hot starts, meaning a little leaner than you would jet for cold starts...in other words I didnt really care if my bike took a little longer to start cold or needed a little more choke when cold even in warm climates...

 

also most guys love fat pilot jets on here, one benefit of this is easier to start when cold, it will do it right away, usually with no choke, it also has a benefit of helping eliminate the lean bog the oem carb suffers and most do so to eliminate this

 

(here is a test...try starting your bike cold next time with no choke whatsoever, just for kicks...if it starts right away you can be sure youre a bit on the rich side...you can simply turn your fuel screw in 1 turn if you dont want to bother installing the correct pilot jet...this is of course if your fuel screw is at the standard range of 2-2.5 turns out)

 

real fat jetting and a rough tipover is enough to piss any sane person off...

 

like others have posted it takes 5 to 10 kicks with decomp on always and throttle all the way, Ive had to do this 2 or 3 tmes in a row to properly clear my bike when I didnt get a chance to kill it as fast as possible...

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I did the typical un-cork stuff (new intake, open airbox, full FMF exhaust), with a 170 mian, 68s pilot and B53f needle on the 3rd clip.

 

I'm willing to give anything a try, although it's really not THAT big of a deal. In the 3+ years I've had it, I've only had it on it's side 3 times.

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In the 3+ years I've had it, I've only had it on it's side 3 times.

not riding her hard enough!! or is that 3 times a week?

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not riding her hard enough!! or is that 3 times a week?

Nope...just not riding it hard enough. At least not hard enough in the rough stuff. Stupid hurts a lot longer than it did 30 years ago.

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