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2007 Right Crank Seal

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Am I reading the manual correctly? Is this picture telling me to flip the right crank seal around if bike is after 2005? I am using winderosa seals. Only differences in the seals form a 2004 and 2007 OEM is the 2007 is 7.5mm thick and the 2004 is 7mm.

 

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The seals I got are for 2004 to 2009 they look like the older style seal so I guess i will install them like you would on a 2004

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My opinion is its best to go with OEM when it comes to seals and bearings and stuff like That. It fits every time

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Trying to replace the right crank seal & the left counter balance seal. I found the left counter balance seal. But not sure of the location of the right crank seal. Do you need to remove the clutch to get to the right crank seal? Do you need to use an allan wrench to get the sprocket off (is the seal behind this sprocket)? Pics are always appreciated. 

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Am I reading the manual correctly? Is this picture telling me to flip the right crank seal around if bike is after 2005? I am using winderosa seals. Only differences in the seals form a 2004 and 2007 OEM is the 2007 is 7.5mm thick and the 2004 is 7mm.

 

Capture.jpg

I just replaced the right seal on my 07. The seal is not flipped backwards. Both sides look the same except one side is all black and the other is a cooper yellow color in the inset part. The yellow side goes out so that you see it when the seal is in place. That's assuming you have wisely gone oem

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Trying to replace the right crank seal & the left counter balance seal. I found the left counter balance seal. But not sure of the location of the right crank seal. Do you need to remove the clutch to get to the right crank seal? Do you need to use an allan wrench to get the sprocket off (is the seal behind this sprocket)? Pics are always appreciated.

go look at a oem parts diagram. You will see where it is. Yes you have to remove the clutch basket and hub. Suggest using air for the hub nut or at very least buy the special hub removal tool. (I did not and I had to but a new hub after breaking a bolt tower off.) anyways once you get the hub off you have to remove the gears via the Allen. Pull the two gears off and there is your main seal. When you put the gears back on, make sure you align the timing marks. The two gears you take off will only go back on the spindle one way. The gear in front will rotate freely once you remove the crank gears so that's the one to pay attention to

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Thanks, I just finished. It seems like the bike starts much easier now. Could that be there is less pressure build up? :rolleyes:

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No that doesn't make sense. If your crankcase vent is venting there should not be any more or less internal pressure. I assume you replaced it because your oil was migrating? I find that any time I repair or replace something, it gives the illusion of running better just because you fixed something. Happens to me even on vehicles. Replce the brakes and the engine runs better type of thing. I could be wrong but I just can't see your repair having anything to do with starting

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