Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Question? Will a top triple clamp from 2011-12 CRF450 fit my 2007 CR250?

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, advice needed please,

I want to fit the modern style front plate and mudguard on my 07 CR.

Will a top triple clamp from the 2011-2012 CRF 450 bolt on?

I've been told that the offset is different?

Cheers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yup.  The 09-12 CRF450r came with 48mm KYB fork tubes vs. 02-07 47mm Showa ones.   If your planning on changing the offset you'll have to get the bottom clamp as well.     

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yup.  The 09-12 CRF450r came with 48mm KYB fork tubes vs. 02-07 47mm Showa ones.   If your planning on changing the offset you'll have to get the bottom clamp as well.

I don't want to change the offset, I'm just looking for a neat way to mount the modern CRF style front plate and fender.

Any suggestions?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can I intrude....

Also want to change clamps and offset.

Have people made up a shim to Hold the std showas in the 09-12 clamp?

And is that the only mod required?

Anyone know will 15 crf clamp also fit?

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You could grab a set of clamps off ebay for a 10-13 CRF250 to get you where you want to be.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can I intrude....

Also want to change clamps and offset.

Have people made up a shim to Hold the std showas in the 09-12 clamp?

And is that the only mod required?

Anyone know will 15 crf clamp also fit?

Thanks

depends on what offset you want.  They will all work, just the bearings are different.  13+ CRF450 use the same bottom bearing as 02-07 CR250.

yes people have made shims for the showas, you can buy shim stock and make your own shims (some have even used soda cans).  .01 and .05 is what you need.  I have some extra shim stock from the conversion I am doing now....but you are in Ireland so it would cost a fortune to ship.  Check your local hobby shops or Grainger for the stock.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

depends on what offset you want. They will all work, just the bearings are different. 13+ CRF450 use the same bottom bearing as 02-07 CR250.

yes people have made shims for the showas, you can buy shim stock and make your own shims (some have even used soda cans). .01 and .05 is what you need. I have some extra shim stock from the conversion I am doing now....but you are in Ireland so it would cost a fortune to ship. Check your local hobby shops or Grainger for the stock.

Shimming forks in clamps? soda cans? The last thing I want to have happen is for my fork tubes to move when I'm landing from a jump' Edited by Dklassen
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

depends on what offset you want.  They will all work, just the bearings are different.  13+ CRF450 use the same bottom bearing as 02-07 CR250.

yes people have made shims for the showas, you can buy shim stock and make your own shims (some have even used soda cans).  .01 and .05 is what you need.  I have some extra shim stock from the conversion I am doing now....but you are in Ireland so it would cost a fortune to ship.  Check your local hobby shops or Grainger for the stock.

 

Ok thanks...I'll have a look into that. I might have a 2015 crf triple clamp lined up. 

Maybe some copper would be best as its soft enough that it would be easily shaped and grip the fork well.

Is the steering stem pressed or screwed into the lower clamp do you know?

 

Shimming forks in clamps? soda cans? The last thing I want to have happen is for my fork tubes to move when I'm landing from a jump'

 

Why would it be any different with a shim than directly onto the fork tube?  Just don't use stainless or brass I guess. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Shimming forks in clamps? soda cans? The last thing I want to have happen is for my fork tubes to move when I'm landing from a jump'

I see that type of info posted from time to time on this forum & can't believe riders actually do this.  The sport is dangerous enough & couldn't see how someone can be confident the forks won't move in the triple clamps.  If it can't be done the correct way using the oem or aftermarket clamps & forks to achieve what your trying to accomplish I say DON"T due it.   Not worth the risk IMHO...     

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have been racing MX for over 30 years. In all that time I have never seen or heard of anyone shimming forks. I wouldn't ride a bike with a set up like that or allow my kid to ride one. Companies like Allied and Ride make triple clamps with different off sets. This whole idea of shimming a fork tube seems like a ghetto fix. Suit yourself if you want to try it. Good luck with that!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I see that type of info posted from time to time on this forum & can't believe riders actually do this.  The sport is dangerous enough & couldn't see how someone can be confident the forks won't move in the triple clamps.  If it can't be done the correct way using the oem or aftermarket clamps & forks to achieve what your trying to accomplish I say DON"T due it.   Not worth the risk IMHO...     

 

Let say worst case scenario, and the fork does happen to move in the clamp.....which if its shimmed properly it won't.

 

The fork is only going to move one way, and that's up. (clamp lower on the fork) Then what happens? It moves 10-15mm and hits the underside of the handlebars, at which point the rider notices.

 

No big deal.....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Let say worst case scenario, and the fork does happen to move in the clamp.....which if its shimmed properly it won't.

 

The fork is only going to move one way, and that's up. (clamp lower on the fork) Then what happens? It moves 10-15mm and hits the underside of the handlebars, at which point the rider notices.

 

No big deal.....

Good luck to you...

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There's a lot of people on here that have shimmed them and if you use the proper thickness on the shim and torque it properly its the same thing.

There's one guy on here that said he never even shimmed it and has been riding it for a few years and never had any problems (using the original forks).  

Like RW said the worst case scenario is they will move up to the bottom of the bars.....but I don't see how its possible.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My thoughts are if it was safe the manufacturers, aftermarket companies & race team R&D dept's. would have come up with some sort of shims to be able to use smaller diameter fork tubes in larger diameter orifices in the clamps.   Just because other people have done it, it doesn't make it safe.    To each his own, but I personally wouldn't take a risk as I've taken some bad spills on big jumps & landed short when I was younger & couldn't imagine the forks moving up on me.  Scary....         

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My thoughts are if it was safe the manufacturers, aftermarket companies & race team R&D dept's. would have come up with some sort of shims to be able to use smaller diameter fork tubes in larger diameter orifices in the clamps.   Just because other people have done it, it doesn't make it safe.    To each his own, but I personally wouldn't take a risk as I've taken some bad spills on big jumps & landed short when I was younger & couldn't imagine the forks moving up on me.  Scary....         

Obviously manufacturers and race teams aren't going to do it, as they have the budgets to change clamps if and when they please, so thats a mute point.

 

I'm actually a little amazed at how closed some people have been to the idea on this thread. Think about it with your engineering head on.....

Clamping forces are the exact same when using the same torque value, and if you use a softer material than the stanchion, the friction forces are increased, therefore making it less likely to move than from the factory!

Common people, use your brains.

 

It goes without saying though, if its not torqued correctly, or you use a material thats very hard/has a low co-efficient of friction, it is more likely to move than standard.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

manufactures could never pull this off, too much liability for improper assembly and room for error. I guess it might work ok, just won't see it done on my bike. Proper clamping forces on the tube at the lower triple is important for internals to work correctly and not wear out.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Obviously manufacturers and race teams aren't going to do it, as they have the budgets to change clamps if and when they please, so thats a mute point.

 

I'm actually a little amazed at how closed some people have been to the idea on this thread. Think about it with your engineering head on.....

Clamping forces are the exact same when using the same torque value, and if you use a softer material than the stanchion, the friction forces are increased, therefore making it less likely to move than from the factory!

Common people, use your brains.

 

It goes without saying though, if its not torqued correctly, or you use a material thats very hard/has a low co-efficient of friction, it is more likely to move than standard.

Are you an engineer ?  Once again if it was "safe" I'm confident some company or companies after doing extensive research on safety & different materials per your post they would be available to the public.  I've ridden for 4 decades & understand how dangerous the sport can be & have seen deaths in the result of not being safe.   Ultimately It's your health that can be jeopardized & if you choose so to do it that's on you.  You can take the advice if you wish or not.      

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×