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Kibblewhite Black Diamond Valves question...

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After waiting two long weeks I got the Kiblblewhite Black Diamond valves, the fit perfect, only problem they seem to be very noisy compared to the original ones, could be an adjustment thing or is it necessary to change to the springs from Kibblewhite as well, as I have never used Kibblewhite before, that's why I am asking. 

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We use kibble white valves.They are not noisy,check your adjustment.

Thanks, that's great help, can they be used with stock springs or, do you need to change the whole valve train components? Thanks

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So I had those kibblewhite valves on for not even 1500 miles and they're already done, very strange. The work was done by a German mechanic and I think he knows his staff. Maybe there went something terribly wrong. I was charged big money for all of this and it only lasted a couple of rides, this is crazy.

Maybe someone has an idea, what could be the cause, this is so disappointing, all parts ordered from the U.S. plus shipping plus import duty, plus installation

 

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2013-12-04103745_zps88626446.jpg

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If your valve seats were not cut correctly no valve would last. What do the valve seats look like?

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wow!!! those valves look like they have years of riding on them. i.just revalved mine 2 months ago. the valves i pulled out were oem honda valves that i installed back in 2006 and they looked just like yours in the picture. are you sure the mech. put the new ones in? sorry for your bad luck.

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If those valves are new,did not last few rides.It can only be the machine shop work.We use those valves they last a lot longer then stock.The person that did the work,is the one that does not know what he is doing.BTR

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Something's wrong. They look like they have 6000 miles of dirt miles on them with bad guides .

Thanks, a lot for all the input. So if it was the machine shop's work, so how in the world an experienced mechanic can oversee this and just put the valve in and put everything together. I don't have no mechanical knowledge myself so I have to rely on my mechanic and cannot even judge what's wrong or right. I am very very disappointed, spend big bucks - waited a long time to finally get this. This is crazy.

 

I will see if I can get a refund from the mechanic…and thanks one more time for all the input from each of you guys

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Are face of those intake valves lipped?

Did you adjust the valves? After the first few hours of riding the valves would have tightend up.

The exhaust valve looks like you had no clearance on the valve lash causing the valve to be held open allowing combustion to blow by, burning the valve.

This is not a guide or seat issue. If it were a guide issue the valve stem would be scored and the seat would be hammered. If it were a seat issue it would never of ran right from the beginning. -

Edited by charper

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Are face of those intake valves lipped? Did you adjust the valves? After the first few hours of riding the valves would have tightend up. The exhaust valve looks like you had no clearance on the valve lash causing the valve to be held open allowing combustion to blow by, burning the valve. This is not a guide or seat issue. If it were a guide issue the valve stem would be scored and the seat would be hammered. If it were a seat issue it would never of ran right from the beginning. -

I cannot tell for sure what's wrong, only thing I can do is post more pictures, maybe this helps identifying the problem. Photos were taken by my phone, sorry don't have a proper camera

 

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yeah, its hard to tell without having it in my hands. You need some machinist dye or lapping compound to see where on the valve face the seat is sealing. It should seal 3/4 the way up the valve face.

 

It's hard to tell by the picture but it looks like the intake is worn all the way to the edge of the face. The seat being cut too much can cause this. If the seat is cut too much it moves the sealing surface down the face of the valve, causing more stress on the lip of the valve, eventually causing it to fail because it distorts the valve face.

 

If that is the case, then seats will have to be replaced. 

 

I would recommend you take the head and valves to a different cylinder head shop just for an opinion. ANY machine/cylinder head shop will give you a decent diagnosis. It doesn't have to be a motorcycle machine shop. Most will do that free of charge.

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It's hard to tell from the photos but it looks like the width of the sealing surfaces are inconsistent.  It looks like one exhaust valve ran hotter than the other.  Are the sealing surfaces wider on one.  I was told no more than 2mm wide at the sealing point of the valve.  Obviously they all need to be the same.

 

It's always a risk to have any machine work done.  Good machinists who are skilled and take enough time to do precision motor work are rare.  What you usually end up with, is less than Honda precision and reliability.  

 

What about the piston to bore clearance?  It looks like you are burning some oil there.

Edited by Baja Rambler

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You can tell the seats where not cut right, by looking at the valves.If the valve seals,where bad,that would not make this problem.

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Yes, they didn't place the seat sealing surface in the center of the valves, like if they didn't have the 3 angle seat cutters. It can do that when you only have the inner angle and valve angle cutter without having the outer angle cutter.

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Yes, they didn't place the seat sealing surface in the center of the valves, like if they didn't have the 3 angle seat cutters. It can do that when you only have the inner angle and valve angle cutter without having the outer angle cutter.

You guys rock, thanks a thousand times…I will have to change my mechanic and try a different one, seems like they don't know what they're doing…will take the head to a different machine shop this time for sure, never ever happened before

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