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Temp warning light.

By Drz400-driving,
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Grand Master

Erik Marquez

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At about 167 deg F radiator thermostat starts to opens.

At about 194 deg F T-stat is completely open.

 

Fan kicks on when it's thermo switch closes at about 205 deg F, then opens (fan off) at about 196 deg F.

 

The Temp light uses a separate thermo switch.. Closes at 243 deg F (light on) open at 212 deg F (light off)

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motobobintexas

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I have a cracked coolant tan...again...stupid place to put that darn thing but I just ordered a new one with a new cap...about that in a minute

 

anyway...I could see my blue water wetter in the bottom of the tank but the light came on twice in the last two days (about 100 degrees in texas right now), I did not hear my fan kick on at all even though I kow it was working before, I pulled the cap off and found the coolant to be a little low...not much but enough, topped it off and it was Ok today

 

here is the funny thing, the rad cap was kinda caved in like it had been sucked in...that little sticker on top is actually a metal decal that covers the relief spring in the cap, I ordered a new one last night along with my new coolant tank

 

my advice is to check your coolant level but aleast you know the light is working!

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Grand Master

Erik Marquez

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Themo sensors are at the TOP of the rads,, if coolant is low, the sensor is not in the coolant, ie they are not sensing coolant temp, and will not work.

If the sensor can not "read" the coolant as hot, it will not close and activate the light or fan.

 

I would also consider testing the fan to ensure it is free to rotate, and powers up with a  jumper. Then test the wiring for the thermo switch

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Drz400-driving

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I have a cracked coolant tan...again...stupid place to put that darn thing but I just ordered a new one with a new cap...about that in a minute

anyway...I could see my blue water wetter in the bottom of the tank but the light came on twice in the last two days (about 100 degrees in texas right now), I did not hear my fan kick on at all even though I kow it was working before, I pulled the cap off and found the coolant to be a little low...not much but enough, topped it off and it was Ok today

here is the funny thing, the rad cap was kinda caved in like it had been sucked in...that little sticker on top is actually a metal decal that covers the relief spring in the cap, I ordered a new one last night along with my new coolant tank

my advice is to check your coolant level but aleast you know the light is working!

i check my coolant and oil ever chance i get ?
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motobobintexas

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aww crud...now one more thing to test, I did the thermostat and hoses last year since they were 10 years old, my coolant tank has a hole in it because everytime I take off the air box cover I end up scratching the outside of the tank, this tank is only a year old and the plastic just crumbles when I touch it, I guess that is what happens to OEM sitting on a shelf for 10 years as well

 

I am gonna paint the new tank with truck bed liner or something, leave a pin stripe to check the actual level (which is only ever at the bottom anyway)

 

I have the big safari tank so tanking it off to test the fan is gonna stink, I will check all the wiring under there as well while I am at it

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Erik Marquez

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aww crud...now one more thing to test, I did the thermostat and hoses last year since they were 10 years old, my coolant tank has a hole in it because everytime I take off the air box cover I end up scratching the outside of the tank, this tank is only a year old and the plastic just crumbles when I touch it, I guess that is what happens to OEM sitting on a shelf for 10 years as well

 

I am gonna paint the new tank with truck bed liner or something, leave a pin stripe to check the actual level (which is only ever at the bottom anyway)

 

I have the big safari tank so tanking it off to test the fan is gonna stink, I will check all the wiring under there as well while I am at it

Not the first post I have read about the "fragile" coolant tank... Not sure about that though.. I have two 2003 & 2002 DRZ's and half a dozen coolant tanks in the shop..... none of "crumble when I touch them" 

 

I wounder if its the type of coolant used? 

Or sunlight? My bikes are stored indoors....hmmmmm Id bet sunlight. 

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Drz400-driving

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aww crud...now one more thing to test, I did the thermostat and hoses last year since they were 10 years old, my coolant tank has a hole in it because everytime I take off the air box cover I end up scratching the outside of the tank, this tank is only a year old and the plastic just crumbles when I touch it, I guess that is what happens to OEM sitting on a shelf for 10 years as well

I am gonna paint the new tank with truck bed liner or something, leave a pin stripe to check the actual level (which is only ever at the bottom anyway)

I have the big safari tank so tanking it off to test the fan is gonna stink, I will check all the wiring under there as well while I am at it

there is a recent topic made about this the guy has changed his tank. Looks really good go check the topic out ?
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jawknee21

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At about 167 deg F radiator thermostat starts to opens.

At about 194 deg F T-stat is completely open.

 

Fan kicks on when it's thermo switch closes at about 205 deg F, then opens (fan off) at about 196 deg F.

 

The Temp light uses a separate thermo switch.. Closes at 243 deg F (light on) open at 212 deg F (light off)

what temp would actually do damage? if the light comes on do i need to start moving immediately? In my camaro the dummy light usually meant it was too late. I burned the valves 2 times in that car...

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motobobintexas

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yeah, my bike is stored outside, but you know it leans down on that side away from the sun but it does make sense, UV damage to plastic will make it crumble

 

I figure some paint on it will protect it better, honestly the plastic is very brittle, I had electrical tape over the small hole and the plastic just crumbled when I took the tape off, the hole is near the top and I didn't think the coolant would escape that way since it sits near the bottom

 

I do use the blue water wetter stuff I got from the dealer, you think maybe I should use something else? you know how we have plenty of 100 degree plus days here in Texas and i thought the water wetter would work well (has for the last year until now!)

 

like I said, the rad cap was concave and maybe not holding pressure and allowing the coolant to boil off under lower than normal pressure

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Drz400-driving

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yeah, my bike is stored outside, but you know it leans down on that side away from the sun but it does make sense, UV damage to plastic will make it crumble

I figure some paint on it will protect it better, honestly the plastic is very brittle, I had electrical tape over the small hole and the plastic just crumbled when I took the tape off, the hole is near the top and I didn't think the coolant would escape that way since it sits near the bottom

I do use the blue water wetter stuff I got from the dealer, you think maybe I should use something else? you know how we have plenty of 100 degree plus days here in Texas and i thought the water wetter would work well (has for the last year until now!)

like I said, the rad cap was concave and maybe not holding pressure and allowing the coolant to boil off under lower than normal pressure

i use engine ice. Its about the best? And why not buy a bike cover. Protect it from the sun
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motobobintexas

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I am gonna paint the new one to block the UV rays and maybe add some rubber to that side corner that always gets rubbed on when I pull the cover

 

as far as bike covers, I have the Turbo City products windshield plus racks so i have to use the Gold Wing style cover if I did, I keep it under the trees in my back yard so the birds can look at them selves in the mirrors and poop on my handlebars!

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Erik Marquez

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what temp would actually do damage? if the light comes on do i need to start moving immediately? In my camaro the dummy light usually meant it was too late. I burned the valves 2 times in that car...

I DONT KNOW.

 

That said....

 

The OEM cap is a 1.1 bar or 16 PSI cap.

 Coolant boiling pont is raised about 2~3 deg per psi

So using 3 PSI,,,

3x16 = 48 deg

Plus 212 of water boiling point.

260 deg.... then add the raised coolant additive boiling point above water and you get.... MORE...LOL

 

 The real issue I think is when the coolant boils (vaporizes) and leaves the coolant passages unfilled with liquid coolant and that section or portion uncooled.

 

So how hot it too hot? I don't know... but my opinion and experience is, at the point of boil over you have issues. 

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motobobintexas

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they might be on to something. Now i know what im doing with the extra mirror i have...

this is off topic but here is the link to my safari tank install

https://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/895314-28-liter-aqualine-safari-tank-install/?hl=safari%20tank

the birds try to mate with the mirrors or something but end up with the white stuff all over the bike, seems to be common with cardinals, not other birds

sorry Erik, feel like I am jacking this thread so i will stop

 

I think my rad cap went bad and allowed the coolant to boil off, I use the engine ice brand water wetter but Erik's math makes sense

 

I ordered Eddie's fan switch today from Wheeling Cycle, like my battery/stator issue that was a combination of things, I think my temp light coming on is the same issue, once I get all the things like they should be, bike should not overheat (I did check my oil level and it is OK and no sign of water pump leakage in oil)

 

I am going to installing the Voyager GPS dash unit soon and I think it has an actual temp gauge so the above info should help

Edited by motobobintexas
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