+2" clutch cable KLX250

OK, 2010 KLX250S. I tried to search and got hot leads but no answers.


I need 2" extra on clutch cable. Can anyone confirm if KLX300 is indeed a replacement fit with some extra room? My cable was tight stock but it is really tight with Zeta CX Motard medium bars (look exactly like stock bend they're so close, but about 0.3" wider at perch mount, and yes, I've slid it inboard as far as possible).


My local Kaw dealer can't advise and is preaching about restock fees, so I wanna be sure.

Terrycable "specializes in custom control cables", quality stuff too.

I missed checking my thread for a few days. In the meantime I did order a custom cable. I also found solid evidence that the KLX300 clutch cable is different from my 2010 KLX250: it has a different elbow location (no biggie) and the barrel is wider which would probably need to be filed to clear clutch perch. It might fit earlier KLX250 so YMMV.



Is anyone aware of an option other than a custom cable?  Changing bars seems to put you at or beyond the limits of the stock cable.


Dare I ask how much a custom clutch cable costs?  Approximately....


God Bless,



Tim: a lot of guys change to "close to stock bars" with no cable mods, but my very slight extra rise, and slight extra width, in my opinion, required the +2" cable from MotionPro (`$50). I tried the reroutes and all the other good advise, but it did not work on my 2010 KLX.  There's one fellow I know who claims 2" risers mounted with nothing more than a reroute...YMMV.


Also, the KLX300 cable, while a shade longer, is not a direct fit for the 2009 and later KLX250s. The ferrule and barrel width is wider on the KLX300 cable. It could be made to work, but I went with tried and true MotionPro. I'm not sure about pre2009 fitment. 

check Motion pro also they sell some longer than stock cables already made and can make custom

Sweetwater and Zimman,


Thanks for the info.  Looking at Pro Motions website, are the unversal cables, if bought in the right length going to be similar enough to our factory configuration to work, or is it safest to contact them and request a bike specific one, 2" longer than stock???


I think I would prefer to have a little more slack than I currently have since adding Fatbars in the Enduro bend.  They are very close to stock width, but taller though with less sweep.  The Pro Taper adapter add an additional 3/4" rise and when turning the bars to the left lock, all the slack pulls out of the cable... it is that close being maxxed out... again, I'd prefer a llittle more slack but I am not sure I want it badly enough to spend $50  :)

I am pretty sure I never see full left lock except when i fall down and when I park the bike with the steering locked!


Thanks again,



I always use a klx300 cutch cable on my 2010 fi 250klx, as I have risers

Never been a problem

I always use a klx300 cutch cable on my 2010 fi 250klx, as I have risers

Never been a problem



That it good to know thanks!  That may present itself as an inexpensive option as I occasionally see KLX300's getting parted out.  As I have mentioned, my setup is just at the limit of the stock cable so even an extra 1/2" would give me the slack I am after!

Do you use the KLX300 clutch lever or is there modification that needs to be done on the cable end?




Lever is  standard 250

A300 cable here is less than $10us

Not to be obtuse, but the barrel/ferrule on the American Domestic Market KLX300 clutch cable is too wide for my stock , American Domestic Market 2010 KLX250s clutch lever. Maybe my bike is an oddball, but I doubt it.


The bike in Thailand is mentioned as an "FI". No FI in 'Merika, so another difference in build design. Again, not to be obtuse, but you gotta compare apples to apples.


I fully agree that the ADM KLX300 cable is slightly longer, less than $20 in the southeast of the USA, but also has variation in its adjustment barrel that may play part in some simple reroute when installed (no biggie, just sayin'!). 


Further, the MotionPro is straight badass, slick as owl poop, and left me with room to add risers should I desire. A 0.5" addition  would be fine, create less strain, but when I do a mod I try to do the best I can do and achieve exactly what I want. 

Edited by Sweetwater Farms



Hey thanks for pointing out that alricalric was talking about a Thailand-spec bike, I did not catch that.  Clearly there are differences in details depending on its delivery location, EFI being the most obvious.  I noticed that the magazines refer to the KLX as a 50-states legal bike, yet the CA-spec bikes have additional emmissions equipment than our 49-states bikes.  Ironic that our bikes are all built in Thailand where alricalric get his EFI?


I see that you are very pleased with the Motion Pro product so I will keep that as an option.  I guess my first attempt is usually to try to find a factory part that works but you sound very particular about your stuff so I will trust your endorsement of the Motion Pro!


At the risk of beating a dead horse....  what is the much-mentioned-but-not-detailed cable reroute?  The only way I can see of gaining anything in this regard would be to cable out of the retainer up on the headset and route the cable behind the triple clamp instead of running it up in front of the bars???


Thanks again the info and sorry to drag this out!



TC: You are right IMO, the reroute would be behind the triple. It would no doubt give that little extra you might need and I had considered it as well. I'm using my KLX as a true dualsport with less than 40 miles a week in the dirt, but 80-120 on the road. I was considering the addition of GPS mount and such when looking at the reroute, and decided against it.


If you reroute, update the thread and let us all know the outcome. Again, some guys claim to get more than ample extra this way. 


Alricalric: I think an FI KLX sounds awesome by-the-way! Since so many choose the WR250 over KLX due to FI, I don't know why Mama Kawa doesn't offer it here in the states? I also bet it probably shares 98% of its parts with the NorthAmerican bike.

OK, after several fruitless attempts to re-route the clutch cable to work around the cable length limitations, I took a chance and bought an aftermarket clutch cable for a 97-07 KLX300A.  The part number on it is 03-236 and my local, all-brands, independent shop said it was listed as a "Heavy Duty" cable for this application.  This dealer sells a lot of EMGO brand stuff that looks pretty generic and imported (in the cheap sense) as well as some Motion Pro stuff, but the cable number looks to be more like a Motion Pro part number???  Motion Pro's part# for the KLX300 is 03-0236.  I did not see the catalog he looked the number up in and the cable has no brand marking on it.  The p/n I listed above is printed on the cable housing.


Short answer:

The aftermarket KLX300 cable fits perfectly on my 2012 KLX250S and is about 2-1/4" longer than the factory cable.  If anything, the 300 cable is a little longer than necessary for my application but that does not create any fitment or function problems, but it does relieve the tension at the left steering stop with my Fatbar (Enduro)/Pro Taper adapter combo.


Detailed specifics:

There was some question about differences in cable end and cable housing size differences.  The following are measurements from both the stock 250 cable and the aftermarket 300 cable (excluding overall length mentioned above):


Cable housing end dia. @ clutch perch:

Stock 250 - 7.88mm

Aftermarket 300 - 7.60mm


Aluminum "barrel" on cable end that fits into lever:

Stock 250*** - 7.87mm

Aftermarket 300 - 7.80mm

***IMPORTANT NOTE, look carefully at the pics of my stock 250 cable end and note that there is a nylon sleeve on it that increases the O.D. to the measurement above.  The stock AL barrel only measures 5.83mm.

Also remember that these are cast (barrel) and crimped (metal end of cable housing) parts so even though they are "round" parts, your measurement will vary depending on where you measure it.  I used a digital caliper, so on a part like this, 0.2mm is not really significant and could be more of a manufacturing variance than a part built to a different spec.



The fittings at the engine end of the cable look and fit like the factory cable.  The stock Kawasaki cable does have a plastic "rub sleeve" over the cable housing from the adjuster in the middle of the cable up to lever-end to protect it from abrasion where it passes around the steering head of the frame and up through the triple clamp and speedo assembly.  The metal bend on the lower-end of the 300 cable is slightly different from stock and does not have a rub sleeve on it where it passes through the cable retainer.  As can be seen in the pictures, fits just fine along the frame and within the cable retainers.  I would ASSUME the factory 300 cable from Kawasaki would be the same spec as this aftermarket one.


Alricalric and Sweetwater, it looks you were both right – it is a little different but it works..


One last note, I have also attached a product description for a Shimano brake cable for bicycles that may explain why Mama Kawi made a 5.83mm barrel on the end of the cable and then put a nylon sleeve on it to bring it up to 7.88mm.  Shimano describes the sleeve as a strain relief on the barrel end to equalize stress???


I hope this info is helpful to someone, albeit a little wordy,




Attached pics:

1 Uninstalled cables side-by-side (Shows slight dif. in pre-formed bend).

2 Uninstalled cable ends showing dif. in length (Housings are not aligned but opposite ends of the cables are aligned with each other).

3 Installed cable along frame and engine.

4 Installed cable at clutch lever.

5-6 Nylon sleeve on barrel on end of cable.

7 Shimano cable description.








Tim, that is awesome! You have dug deeper than me and it looks like you nailed a solid solution. This lil' thread is a good resource for clutch cables :-)


Funny that you found the Shimano cable idea. I've never seen it in action on my push bikes and I run higher end Shimano components, but it must provide some stress relief.


I learn something new every ten minutes (I forget two things every five!!!).

One last comment on the cable re-route suggestion... if someone has successfully gained effective cable length re-routing the cable please post, with pics!


Re-route in front of the triple clamp:

Looked at this and while it may give you some cable slack, it puts the cable in a real awkward and tight series of bends between the top of the triple and the frame when the bars are turned to the right.


Minor re-route below speedo:

On my 250S, the clutch cable came around the front of the headset and to the LEFT of the brace between the speedo and triple clamp (looks to be made of the same material they used for the cable guides down the right side of the frame).  It looks like a very little bit could be gained by pulling the cable up to the RIGHT of that wire brace but on my applicaiton with the Acerbis handguards, it put the cable is a worse position trying to come around the inner brace of the handguard.


Hope this helps - oh, thanks for the kind words Sweetwater!



Also, before I had a 1997 klx250 which I also fitted with risers and the klx300 cable.

The pre 2009 (carb) klx250s, and the KLX300s were made in Japan, so we can get the made in thailand parts quickly, but other parts from Japan may take a long long time

Maybe we used a longer throttle cable too, the one for a Kawasaki Boss 175, but I'd have to check that



It would be interesting to see the differences in bikes made for different markets (different countries).  As Sweetwater said, I think the FI 250 would sell well here in the US but I suspect that since they got this carbed versions emmisions-certified they won't change it until it no longer meets emmissions standards... then we might see the FI version you already have.


I have read in adventure bike articles that Honda still sells a version of the XR250 in Laos as the XR250 Baja.  Do you see those in Thailand?


Oops, way off topic, better stop here....



Here's an interesting experience: bought a 2009 KLX250s to keep the 2010 company...it has 1.25" risers with OEM bars and even though the clutch cable is tight, it is "ok". Note, I am taking the risers off and would replace cable if they were to stay, but it is "ok".


Why,why, why is this not the case with the 2010? It almost seems like there is a cable change between years in spite of part number. It explains why some owners think others are crazy when complaining of cable length. Well, I'm a little touched in the head anyways  :-)

Here's an interesting experience: bought a 2009 KLX250s to keep the 2010 company...it has 1.25" risers with OEM bars and even though the clutch cable is tight, it is "ok". Note, I am taking the risers off and would replace cable if they were to stay, but it is "ok".


Why,why, why is this not the case with the 2010? It almost seems like there is a cable change between years in spite of part number. It explains why some owners think others are crazy when complaining of cable length. Well, I'm a little touched in the head anyways  :-)


I suppose that if we are to actual get to the bottom of this and figure out if Mama Kawi is sending out different length clutch cables under the same part number for 2009-up KLXs, we will need to collect some imperical data:


My contribution will be that my 2012 clutch cable measures:

Inner cable - 42.75" from end to end.

Cable housing - 39.5" as adjusted from the factory.  (Not exactly sure where in the adjustable range that is, but I see about 1/4" of threads before the locknut on the adjuster.


As mentioned in my earlier post, the aftermarket KLX300 cable I bought was about 2-1/4" longer than my stock one.


If anyone else has a cable out to measure, it might help others in the future (the 300 cable solved my dilemma).




***Sweetwater, thanks for comming to the defense of us "crazies!" :rolleyes:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now