600 xr a pain to kick over!

I've got a 1990 xr600. Just put a new stator in and it won't start on the kick. I can bump it in 1 shot but just doesn't seem to want to go when I kick. Has no electric start and no battery.

Also does anyone know about hooking up the lights with a new stator? Old stator had 2 wires and the new one has 5. Have tons of spark but can't seem to figure out the lights. In need of help!

I'm no good with electrics..First question is what sort of Stator,???,ie,,where did you get it/who made it/manufacturers name..

 

If it has good spark then in theory it should start off the kicker,,Reasons it won't,,Maybe carb set wrong ,,maybe valves too tight..Try upping the idle knob a turn on the carb and make sure you use the starting drill..Fuel on,,ignition on,,Pull the hand decomp in and boot the thing through 5-10 times forcefully using no throttle ,,choke on..Line her up for the kick using the hand decomp..Give it the boot..No go,,Wide open throttle..boot through 5-10 times using hand operated decomp,,Close throttle,,line up kicker with hand decomp,,kick

Edited by Horri

Electrosport stator bought from my local bike shop. There are 3 white wires and 1 yellow wire and of course the main black wire. I am assuming the 3 white wires are somehow going to have to connect to the original blue wire which powers all the lights, horn etc.

gz59.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

That's the diagram I have,,I suppose follow it..Going by that you need only one white wire hooked for the lights to work.

Edited by Horri

ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1377805712.463338.jpg

This is the stator

Thanks horri

I have that but still nothing. Maybe need to ground the other wires?

 Don't know,,I've had a bit of a gutful of stators not having the correct diagrams and instructions to go with them,,Wait for someone more electrical than me.

 

If it is an Electrosport then even the wiring diagram I posted doesn't correspond with what you have..

 

What I'd do is phone Electrosport and ask them,,while you're there tell them to release a pdf document on the web that actually corresponds with the coloured wires they use..People need the correct instructions,,I just don't know why it's so difficult for some firms to get it right..Not exactly customer service giving out the incorrect diagram..

Edited by Horri

That's my point too Horri

They sent me the same instructions and it doesn't correspond. I emailed them and they said its all different depending on how you want to set up your bike. I have all stock lighting and just want to ride! They all worked before I changed the stator.

This is the response I got from electrosport on the light wiring

There really are not instructions because there are a lot of different wiring options possible, and your lighting set up determines how to wire it best. Some people need dual D/C, some dual a/c, others mixtures of both in various floated or grounded outputs. The only thing that is not variable is that the black/red wire must go to the cdi box, that is the source coil's power wire. Regardless of how you wire the lighting output wires, the bike should run so long as the source coil wire is properly installed.

LoL,,Brilliant instruction not,,So all in all basically they just wash there hands on the lighting side..Hook up the red/black to the black is there entire instructions,,Think we could safely say no one should purchase one of there Stators..Customer service,,Nil.. :thumbsdn:

 

What's more incredible is if your bikes stock then the way they say to use their Stator lights wise then the thing should work..It doesn't..Here Electro,,take this.. :smashpc:

Edited by Horri

Are you SURE you are kickstarting it properly?

Look up a youtube video of the starting procedure and how to find TDC.

Lol that's my reply too. It doesn't take a genius to figure out that when you have only one wire and only one white wire that fits you hook them up and it's done. Not the case here. I have emailed them again but no response. All of this after buying one and putting it in only to have no spark at all. Took it back to where I bought it and they gave me a hard time saying we could have it hooked up wrong. Black to black how do you screw that up? Finally got another one and bam we have spark! The stator was faulty right from the box!

Are you SURE you are kickstarting it properly?

Look up a youtube video of the starting procedure and how to find TDC.

Yep have kicked over many times before we changed out the stator! Funny thing though when the first stator we bought had no spark while waiting for a new one we tried cleaning up the contacts on the old one put it back in and it fired first kick!

As I said I'm not exactly good electrically but what you could maybe do is get some crocodile clips with wires attached hooked up to each white and once the bikes running touch each with your volt meter and see whats coming out..Expect you'd set the meter on some high voltage setting,,say 50 maybe..Red on the meter to each individual white,,black on the meter to ground on the bike,,Don't blame me if something burns up..quick touch of the wires should be enough to see what's happening without melting anything..About all I can suggest..

 

Maybe even a 24volt bulb would do if you have no meter,,dunno if a 12 would blow instantly or not as I don't know what comes off stators volt wise in the lighting side..More revs more power/reg/recs/regs,,It's a jungle out there..

Edited by Horri

That it is!

I have lots of different types of ohm meters. Will check it out tomorrow and keep you posted!

Well we have lights!

Had to make a ground for them. Still doesnt want to kick over bumps fine though.......

Update!!!

Bike started won't stay running. Can't give it any throttle

So what does it run like when it's running,,does it go ok apart from when you slow down and come to a stop..ie,,does it just cut out then.

 

First job is to eliminate a gas delivery problem..follow below.

Could be a clogged up Pilot jet..You need to get the bowl off to get at the main and the Pilot jet. It can be removed with the carb in place if you have a really short philips head screwdriver and also are lucky enough to have a bike where the screws aren't seized in place or the heads have been rounded off,common for the philips screws. You can also get at them with the carb in place if you follow what I say below but instead of pulling the carb right off you yank the airbox hose back as described and then pull the carb from the intake manifold so the spigot bit on the carb body isn't slotted into the intake manifold bit.You can then rotate the carb so as to get at the bowl area from a side on perspective. Main jet needs to come out as does the tube it screws into..Pilot jet needs to come out,,It's in a hole,,thinnish slot head screwdriver is needed for it. When you have them out look at the sides of both the pilot and the tube the main jet screws into.Running up the side and on both sides of both items are tiny holes. Get a strand from a wire brush and run it through all the tiny side holes and obviously the central main hole. Possibly give both the orifices they came out a blow out with compressed air if you have access to it,,otherwise use your mouth on them,,.Reinstall the jets,,reinstall the carb,,test.

Follow the below on removal or twisting of the carb in place,,adjust to suit either or your situation,,The below's a guide not gospel,,Each situation is different..

(1) Tank/seat/Sidecovers need to come off..
(2) All the crappy anti smog stuff needs to be removed from near or around
the carbs,,ie the plastic carbon thingamejig and any associated hoses including the crank breather hoses
(3) Undo and remove both airbox hose clamps
(4) Loosen off the carb to intake manifold hose clamps.
(5) Walk around to the right hand side of the bike
(6) Grab the front carb side of the plastic/rubber nozzle that runs to the aircleaner
in your hand.
Pull it back towards you or the rear of the bike and rest it's front part against the frame
downtube just back from it a bit.
(7) Walk round to the left hand side..do the same with that airbox nozzle resting it
behind the other frame downtube just back a bit from the carbs.
(8) Pull the carbs out of the front intake manifold.
(9) Remove carbs to the right,,cables can stay on on twin carb bikes..singles they need to come off..choke cable may also need to come off on the twins.

It will take a bit of manipulation to get them out that side..I cannot explain that..like a rubics cube it is,,Persist and they'll come out,,Too hard,,Remove the cables at the carb connection and go out to the left..

Don't leave those airbox hoses behind the frame downtubes for to long or they become a bit deformed.
Once the carbs are out pull them from behind the downtubes and allow them to rest as normal till the carbs are ready to go back on.
Pull them back again to get the carbs back on..

Adjust the above to suit either the dual or single carb bikes.
While removing the head to carb manifold is maybe the stipulated method in the manual it can be a real pain to get off if you don't have the correct spanner,,You can spend more time dicking around with those bolts than the above way takes . My advice is if you need to do the job a bit and want to use the head to carb manifold removal way ,,replace the bolts with allen heads,,easier to get at..Whatever way you go the Seat/Tank/Sidecovers need to come off,,no getting away from that..The above gets away from you needing to use the spanner method on the manifold,,that is all....
 

Edited by Horri

Thanks again for that!

We took the carb out and jets are all good. Has been cleaned out more than once. Checked all the valves for clearance and they are all good. Bike is running like a bag of poop. Not just when it comes to a stop. Couldn't even bump after awhile. Had everything apart and it all tests fine. Getting frustrated not knowing why she won't run good. Engine has been completely rebuilt and all new wiring as well. Stumped and no riding :(

Ok,,what about the ignition coil..Get a screwdriver and in where the plug fits is a slotted screw head..Undo it if you can,,no doubt the thing will be seized,,I'll leave the decision on how to deal with that to you..Anyway,,between that screw and the I suppose lead is some sort of resistor type thing..Remove it and replace it with about the same sized thickness/length of stainless or bronze or copper..

 

When the bike is actually going do you have to use a lot of throttle movements on it to keep it running???..That to me is an indication of a stuffed actual ignition coil..They mainly display the characteristics once they heat up or the bikes been running a bit. Kinda rare for them to fail on XRs but you never know,,it may be totally defective,,thus your replacing of that bit in the end won't help

Ok,,what about the ignition coil..Get a screwdriver and in where the plug fits is a slotted screw head..Undo it if you can,,no doubt the thing will be seized,,I'll leave the decision on how to deal with that to you..Anyway,,between that screw and the I suppose lead is some sort of resistor type thing..Remove it and replace it with about the same sized thickness/length of stainless or bronze or copper..

When the bike is actually going do you have to use a lot of throttle movements on it to keep it running???..That to me is an indication of a stuffed actual ignition coil..They mainly display the characteristics once they heat up or the bikes been running a bit. Kinda rare for them to fail on XRs but you never know,,it may be totally defective,,thus your replacing of that bit in the end won't help

Tested that too and the resistance was good. Screw was not seized either

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now