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KLX 110 Carb questions

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I have a 2006 klx110 I just got.  It has restart issues.  It is 4 speed (modified) auto clutch.  I cleaned the carb and air cleaner - no change.  I understand the air screw adjustment is sealed.  Is that right?  Can the carb be converted to manual air screw adjustment?  If I buy a new carb, should I get the Canadian model?  Or buy a Mikuni VM26 - which I understand won't fit the stock air box.  Any comments?

 

Thanks,

 

Big_Gerry

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So you're saying it is not starting while hot?

The vm26 is a fantastic carb, one of the best mods to buy. You need an intake manifold, filter, and carb cable along with the carb. Tbparts sells the kit for $110 I believe.

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Also, the pilot (air/fuel) screw is on the outside of the carb. It is the brass flathead screw on the right side of the carb. Let it run and rev it up and down for about 5 minutes. Take your spark plug out and read the color of the tip...let us know what color it is.

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Also, the pilot (air/fuel) screw is on the outside of the carb. It is the brass flathead screw on the right side of the carb. Let it run and rev it up and down for about 5 minutes. Take your spark plug out and read the color of the tip...let us know what color it is.

Hi.  I took the bike out with the grandson yesterday.  The bike started the first kick and ran good.  The problem appears to be a restart issue when the engine is HOT.  I am thinking a electrical problem.  What would be the likely culprit?  I'm thinking the coil or CDI.  What part should I change first?

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If pilot screw adjustment didn't change it, I would do a plug chop (take the spark plug out and look at the color), and tighten the valves up a little. If you do a plug chop look at what color the very tip is and let me know.

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If pilot screw adjustment didn't change it, I would do a plug chop (take the spark plug out and look at the color), and tighten the valves up a little. If you do a plug chop look at what color the very tip is and let me know.

ok - the plug looks pretty good - dry and white.

 

i'm thinking electrical.  what is the weakest link?  cdi or coil.  I believe what I think is the cdi - near the front, right side tank area, is the cdi.  the mounting flexed like it was cracked.  I jb welded it - this is background info, done prior to start issues.

 

thanks

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A white plug is your problem. A good mixture should be cream colored. You are running too lean, Clean the main jet again and if that doesn't help, raise the needle clip one notch. If that does not work, put the needle clip back down and bump up the main jet a size, or knock the pilot jet down one size.

Edited by 110Tim

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Did I say white?  I meant Light - as in light gray.

I talked to the local Kawasaki service guy today via telephone.

He said the valves might need adjusting.  I will give that a try - kinda makes sense.  If the valves (adjustment) are too tight, then they will be partly open when hot (and hard to start), and then close a little when cooled off.

 

Thanks 110Tim for your sage comments!

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Anytime...I can't believe I didn't even think of the valves, hopefully your problem gets solved.

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Ok, sorry for the absence.  I checked the valves and did find a tight exhaust valve.  I adjusted the valve and figured that was the problem, but the problem (no start when hot) is still with the bike (sob).  Not sure what I will do next.  Either replace the electrical components one-by-one or only go on rides where we do not stop before returning to home base.  I may sell this bike as is (with full disclosure) because my grandson does not seem to adept at riding.  Thanks to all for the good information and comments!

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Well you may have gotten through the carb issue, so this might not help.  But I just spent a good amount of time adjusting my son's 2006 klx carb.  It had BBR exhaust when we got it but the stock jetting which is 38p and 80m.  It started okay, but had a low throttle bog which would suggest needle jet or pilot jet.  We opened up the air box a bit and changed the main jet from an 80 all the way up to a 95 (recommended by BBR) and then back down to a 92.  I know I said that the symptoms suggested a needle or pilot jet, but thought I would go with the BBR recommendation of 38p and 95m.  This did correct the low end bog, but had a bit of a bog wide open, thus we went back to the 92m.  It starts and runs well now.

 

There is an air screw.  It is immediately to the left of the idle screw, but it is a "D" shaped screw that requires a special tool and also points (inconveniently) upward at an angle.  We pulled it out and used a dremel with a cut off wheel to cut a little grove in it so we could use a long flathead to reach it through the hole in the "radiator" shroud.  The needle jet on the stock carb does not have multiple clips, but I have read that you can use a small washer to brink it up half a notch.  I did not have to do that.

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So you're saying it is not starting while hot?

The vm26 is a fantastic carb, one of the best mods to buy. You need an intake manifold, filter, and carb cable along with the carb. Tbparts sells the kit for $110 I believe.

Is there any benefit to putting that carb on a stock motor?

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Is there any benefit to putting that carb on a stock motor?

no, too much carb on a stock bore.
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and the cases have to be split to do the output shaft?

Yes, and while you're in there it's a good idea to do a 4th gear shift drum as we'll.
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Yes, and while you're in there it's a good idea to do a 4th gear shift drum as we'll.

yea. i'll be doing both of those when i have to do the cylinder and all that. how much should labor be for splitting cases? This bike is expensive for being a toy...

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yea. i'll be doing both of those when i have to do the cylinder and all that. how much should labor be for splitting cases? This bike is expensive for being a toy...

depends On who's doing it.
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how many hours if it's a competent shop?

they'll probably take it for the week, should take about 5 hours the way shops work. Parts+labor (probably $30-$40 hourly) should be about $400-$500, but them again I'm not sure because I don't know the shop.

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