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Mystery...bike running warm

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Stock motor,

8000 ft elevation

52/155 jetting, needle dropped one groove (clip raised one groove),

16/42 gears,

header wrap,

vortip baffle

air box snorkel removed

60 mph gives me about 210-220 degrees.

This can't be right. Any ideas?

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So you've gone up 2 sizes on the main since this post? http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1044189-needle-clip-position/

Again, what are you using to get these temp readings? 210-220F using the XRs Only dipstick when my bike was stock bore was my hottest norm temps. I did not have it running lean. I always use a full synth oil.

Since doing my 440 kit, I've also been running the Two2Cool oil additive. The stuff works. Brought my 250* temps down to the 210-220 range of stock. I imagine it would bring down your stock temps to a more comfortable level for you.

Are you slipping the clutch more with that 16/42 gearing? That will heat up an oil. Sustained hiway speeds will too.

Edited by Trailryder42

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Using the Xr's Only dip stick gauge. I dropped it in boiling water and it was right on the money. I changed the jet from a 150 to a 155 this afternoon. Can't really tell much difference, maybe because its primarily running off the needle. I may raise the needle back to the middle groove and try that also...or maybe, these bikes just run warm cruising on the highway and so there is no problem. After getting the gauge, I definitely am changing from Mobil 1300 15w-40 diesel oil to their Mobil 1 15-50 synthetic. It would be nice if others with temp gauges would weigh in on this regarding how their bikes run.

Edited by oldmanrip

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Mine is about 200°F on the dipstick when I'm not riding aggressively. If I drive fast for a long time, it can rise to 220-230°F. I'm jetted on the rich side.

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Mine is running hot, so I am going to do the following.

Adjust valves

New o-ring for the intake manifold.

Check manifold to carb junction.

New busing for the pipe muffler joint.

Adjust fuel screw. Jetting should be close.

Next oil change, check the screen in the down tube.

Edited by Kev_XR

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210F is considered normal operating temp of oil, The oil you use is even rated at that temp, for example a 10w40    is a 40w at 210f or 100c.  A 250f mx bike can see 280-300f by the end of a moto.    My aircooled 4cyl bike runs 250f -280f all day.

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I raised the needle back to stock. Temps dropped maybe 3-5 on sustained highway driving. I guess these bikes just run hot. I thought the header wrap would have helped more but it doesn't seem to. Clearly, the wrap makes a bigger difference, the hotter the engine becomes.

Is Two2Cool a gimmic? The testimonies are passionate, ......same as in all the competing religions and denominations, so testimonies need to be taken with a 50 lb bag of salt.

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Is Two2Cool a gimmic? The testimonies are passionate, ......same as in all the competing religions and denominations, so testimonies need to be taken with a 50 lb bag of salt.

 

In my experience, no, it's not a gimmick. After doing my 440 kit, I was having trouble with increased oil temps, up *260, where-as with stock, hottest norms were 210-220*, and I kept getting this burning oil smell/vapor from the crankcase vent line.

 

In my research, I found that my oil was foaming at those high temps, tiny bubbles. Bubbles coating your engine internals don't conduct away heat to the oil cooler, they don't cool nor lubricate adequately, so the engine and oil temps climb.

 

What Two2Cool does is prevents that foaming action of the oil.

 

Part of what your header wrap does is keeps the radiated heat from the header away from the cylinder. I've wrapped mine too.

 

Since you're doing a lot of hiway riding, try dropping in the cooler, NGK DPR9Z plug.

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Thanks for the tip...I'll pick one up today. By the way, do you have any actual data on the wrap? Unfortunately, I put my wrap on before I got my dip stick gauge and I'm not about to unwrap for a before/after test.

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No I don't. I didn't put my wrap on til after doing the 440 kit. It was one of the things I did to combat my higher oil temps. It wasn't until I tried the Two2Cool for the first time that I saw a significant temp decrease.

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Running that bike with that tall gearing at hiway speeds is about as hard as you can run it. Uphills will be using all that motor has to give and you will see high oil temps.

Cruising on the hiway is hard work for a bike with no fairing and higher speeds. much harder than rolling down a fire rode with 14/52 gearing at 35 mph.

I would expect the oil to be in the higher range.

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Don't wrap the headpipe up near the engine you'll just push more heat back into the ex port and maybe piston crown.

Edited by highmarker
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