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Clutch drag only when running AND hot

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1998 KDX220 H
 
Hi guys - I really wasn't sure where to post this.
I've read everything I could find on this topic and tried all of it. I don’t know what else to try, hence the cry for help.
 
-Hot or cold, I can ALWAYS push the bike in gear with clutch in.. it's not that easy, but it will go.
-When started and COLD, the clutch acts perfect (no drag at all)
-When started and HOT (and I mean so hot that you can't touch the clutch cover without grimacing), the drag is immense. It pulls the bike forward and if I stop it with my feet, it will stall. Again, when it's hot like this, I can push it in gear when it's not running, but as soon as I start it and the plates are in motion, they don't want to stay separated and turn over each other.
 
Here is what's been done - the problem still remains. 
new Wiesco basket (no play in bearings)
drilled several holes in clutch hub for increased oil flow (hub is not grooved)
new clutch kit from ECB. Soaked frictions as per instructions. 
Sharp machined side of metal plates facing towards engine, also tried away from engine
Last fiber plate offset in slots at end of basket fins (and tried not offset)
Plates are correct thickness, none warped, aren't blackened or anything
tried with the beveled spring washer & seat in, tried with them out
clutch pusher is not worn
all washers in clutch assembly are installed correctly
Actuator arm is set to correct angle with one washer shim in front of pusher and bearing 
tried OEM clutch springs and ECB HD Springs. All lengths measure well. 
Tried all kinds of oil.. made no difference with this issue (jaso ma light/heavy synthetic, light/heavy dino, ATF, Rotella T5/T6)
Between a couple of those oil changes, I deglazed the frictions (220 grit paper, brake cleaner). 
New clutch cable, new lever and perch, all adjusted correctly
New kx500 rad cap 1.5 bar
Radiator flushed, new 50/50 premixed added, bleed system
 
Please help, I'm going crazy. 
Thanks for your time guys – I appreciate any assistance

 

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Do you have any of the old metal plates? May try replacing one of the new steels with old one. See if this does it.

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My question got moved from the main area to here.. too bad since this basically applies to all bikes, not just kawasaki. 

 

Do you have any of the old metal plates? May try replacing one of the new steels with old one. See if this does it.

 

Hi, I don't mind trying this, but I'm just wondering what this would be testing for. The problem existed with the old plates, and also exists with the new ones, which have all been measured and check for warp. 

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do you notice freeplay at lever increase as the clutch gets hot?  plates  swell increasing freeplay which means when you pull the clutch in it isn't disengaging as far.  Why they started putting the big adj on the fly knobs on the cables

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do you notice freeplay at lever increase as the clutch gets hot?  plates  swell increasing freeplay which means when you pull the clutch in it isn't disengaging as far.  Why they started putting the big adj on the fly knobs on the cables

Here is your answer right here ^^^

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do you notice freeplay at lever increase as the clutch gets hot?  plates  swell increasing freeplay which means when you pull the clutch in it isn't disengaging as far.  Why they started putting the big adj on the fly knobs on the cables

 

 

Thanks for the reply!

When it gets hot and the clutch is dragging, I've removed all free play, and then some, such that the clutch is being pushed as far as it can be... I couldn't get more leverage even by manually moving the actuator arm with vice grips. It still drags.  When shut off and pushed in gear with clutch in, the plates seem to disengage very nicely and it pushes quite easily.  

I hope someone here can put their thinking cap on and help me out, cause I'm outta ideas!

Edited by adamnb

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I have another washer/shim that I can add infront of the pusher.. but since the actuator arm (clutch release lever) already seems to be optimally set (the angle that's created by the arm and the clutch cable is between 80 and 90 degrees), I don't think this would provide additional leverage to push the clutch further....  I think..

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talked to EBC support and they said I shouldn't have done the initial soak with synthetic oil..which I didn't see on the instructions, but it's on their website. 

Desperate, I went and ordered a new clutch set (Sumo .. cheap as hell). I soaked them in Rotella 15 40 for a day. Tried it out today and my bike is FINALLY working like it should. I took it for a naaaaasty ride.. probably the hardest I've ever ridden it (lots of clutch work..rocks, mud, hills). When finished, the clutch cover was hot.. but not near as hot as before. I can find neutral no problem (it was literally impossible before), and I can now let it idle in first gear with clutch lever pulled.. it doesn't drag. 

YES!!!!

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talked to EBC support and they said I shouldn't have done the initial soak with synthetic oil..which I didn't see on the instructions, but it's on their website. 
Desperate, I went and ordered a new clutch set (Sumo .. cheap as hell). I soaked them in Rotella 15 40 for a day. Tried it out today and my bike is FINALLY working like it should. I took it for a naaaaasty ride.. probably the hardest I've ever ridden it (lots of clutch work..rocks, mud, hills). When finished, the clutch cover was hot.. but not near as hot as before. I can find neutral no problem (it was literally impossible before), and I can now let it idle in first gear with clutch lever pulled.. it doesn't drag. 
YES!!!!

 

Im having the same problem you were.... i soaked my plates in rotella 15w-40 for 24 hours and it's still happening. but only when warm!

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