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1992 XT225 Clutch issues... :/


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First off...i'm new here.  Hi.  Forgive me if I'm posting a talked about issue, and help direct me to the right place rather than criticize.  I've had several dirtbikes, but nothing more than carb issues on them.

 

Well I picked up a XT225, and on my first ride out in the dirt I felt something weird going on with the clutch.  All within about 5 minutes (and 30 minutes into the ride, so bike was hot) I felt the power going out.  I would give it throttle in 3rd gear and it took a second for the power to be delivered to the rear wheel.  I decided to head back to the trail head, but before then it just completely went out.  No matter what gear, it felt like I was in neutral.

 

 I had to push it up a massive hill and the only saving grace was that in 2nd gear, it wouldn't slip back on me, as if it had just enough clutch to deliver just enough power to not roll back, and therefore resist gravity.  Anyways, it sucked.  Next day I fired it up and it still would not go while in gear.  I adjusted the clutch lever at the lever all the way in, and all the way out...didn't make a difference.  Now I have the clutch casing off outside and I'm looking at the disks and I realized I have no idea how to move forward.

 

The bike has ~16k miles on the clock.  Any help would be much appreciated.  Thanks!

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Yup.  Read and understand before you buy or wrench.  Sounds like you need to rebuild the clutch.  Not complicated if you're handy with wrenches.  Might need to get a clutch cage holding tool.  Probably around $20.  Parts will be probably 80-120. 

Edited by mudmullet
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pd350, thanks for posting up the service manual, but for some reason I couldn't get it to download on my computer.  It kept routing me through to weird websites, and at one point my antivirus detected a trojan virus.  Yikes.  Do you happen to have an easier version?  I'm somewhat computer illiterate, but I do like wrenches ?  Just kind of starting out in that area. 

 

As far as a clutch cage holding tool, could I engineer my own?  I guess I'll figure out more as I go.  I'm putting it on hold until I can read more.  A friend advised me to buy a caliper and inspect each disk and friction plate to see the width and make sure it's not out of spec.  Another guy on here said in another forum that if they lay completely flat, they should be good.  It seems that when I pull the lever (with the clutch casing off) that only 4/6 disks are actuating.  I'm fine spending the money for parts, just never labor.  I want the experience, and maybe it's a pride thing too.

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I know ?  I got it to work on my phone, but no specs on the actual clutch plates/disks, how to read the basket (notched vs un-notched).  Think I should just save the time and buy the parts?  I would like the experience and know how of doing it myself and not taking short cuts though, that way I can diagnose in the future.  Here's what's done so far:

 

Stripped down and all taken apart, all disks removed (kept in same order) and visually inspected but I'm not sure what I'm looking for (i'll post pics by weekend).  I didn't remove the basket because I wasn't sure if I'd be getting myself into a pickle by needing some tool or extra know how that I don't have yet.

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Here's a good video I found on the subject, may be helpful for others.  Still open to suggestions as far as diagnosing what's good vs bad in the disks, and the basket, and how to adjust the clutch pull from inside the casing, not at the lever.  I'm sure mine is out of adjustment.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NdSTyOTK4rQ

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