Cross threaded clutch cover bolt....now what

[BigDaddy111209]

Ok I was installing my new clutch cover on my 13 250sx and the one shorter bolt that goes behind the brake lever got cross threaded on accident. Now it won't tighten and will continue to turn. I'm hoping I can just get a tap and re thread it. Will I need to go a size bigger now? Any help is appreciated.

[808hondacrguy]

You can try a thread chaser, but if thge bolt just spins, you will probably have to helicoil.

[WALKINGWOUNDED]

If the threads are missing in the hole, you'll have to go to the next largest size tap and bolt, or install a heli-coil kit to maintain your current size, or you may be able to drill deeper and tap to you current size bolt. 

 

It would amaze people how tight most of the bolts on a bike don't have to be.  4 and 6mm aluminum/magnesiom threads are very fragile.  If you have two hands on a ratchet, you're asking for trouble.  Palming a ratchet or t-handle provides plenty of pressure.  Even then you can still pull the threads if you're not attentive/experienced.

 

Although the threads are pulled, there may be a few left in the bottom of the hole.  It won't take but a few to snug the bolt.  Another option if there are a few threads left in the bottom of the hole, is to get a stud, install some loc-tite on it, and thread it into the remaining threads.  But let it cure overnight.  But the samething goes for the nut being tightened on the stud....snug and stop.      

 

Hope it works out for you. 

Edited September 3, 2013 by WALKINGWOUNDED

[Flagstaff]

I use a torque wrench for about everything now. Have 4, smallest goes down to like 5 in/lbs.

 

Mike

[Bigty]

I did the same. Heliciol worked great. Now I torque them so it won't happen agian

[hithebrakes]

The wounded guy has got it right. Always start bolts with your fingers.

[Dragon67]

You have nothing to loose by trying this:  Permatex 81668 Stripped Thread Repair Kit

 

The cleaner you get the threads, the better.  Q-tip, simple green, then Q-tip Windex.  The procedure isn't difficult and you may end up with a permanent repair.  Just follow directions.

 

Case bolts are something like 87 inch pounds.  I honestly use a dirt-cheap POS Harbor Freight 1/4 inch inch-pound torque wrench for everything small, including cam caps.  Why?  Because that POS Harbor Freight wrench is not a POS.  

 

The stuff I referred you to is supposed to be good to 128 ft-lbs up to 300 degrees.  I am skeptical of that, but it should cover 87 inch pounds.

 

Helicoil is fine, too.  I just prefer to have all the bolts match on the case.  Sticks out like a sore thumb on resale if they don't.  Just me, maybe.

[Mike in Fresno]

if its the oil level check hole just glue it in with any number of things. No need to check oil level in a 2st. For oil level you just drain out the old and add the correct measured amount of new.

[BigDaddy111209]

No it's not the oil level check hole. Thanks for the input guys. My local autozone has an M6 repair kit, but its not helicoil. Any of you guys used the other brands? Seems like the same thing.

[WALKINGWOUNDED]

It's probably a heli-coil brand, just reboxed.  Probably doesn't matter what brand though, it will have an easy task.

[Larry63r]

Case bolts only take 6ft.lbs (69in.lbs.) of torque. You can easly do that with a nut driver! I use a 1/4" torque wrench on everything, every time.

 

 

[BigDaddy111209]

Ya lesson learned, was trying to be careful, but i was lazy and didnt take 2 seconds to move the brake pedal out of the way and puot it in a bit sideways. I need a smaller torque wrench too. The one I was using is way too big.