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Quality piston and connecting rod for CRF250R 2010

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Hello!

 

I'm setting up my shopping list for a top end rebuild + new connecting rod.

 

My thougts on the new piston are:

 

Carrillo (CP), Cosworth, Wiseco, JE, Vertex or Wossner

 

The Carrillo and Cosworth pistons are a little bit more pricey.

Wiseco, Vertex and Wossner are easy to get and not that expensive.

I used to run Vertex pistons before and had no problems so far.

But maybe there is a better one available. The piston should be a good quality

product + should last + should be lightweight. Compression standard or maybe

13.5:1 or 14.0:1

 

What are you suggestions on the pistons???

 

My list for the new connecting rod:

 

Carrillo

Hot Rods

Wossner

OEM Honda

 

The Carrillo rod is the best out there, that's for sure. But it's pretty expensive.

I don't wanna spend that much money on the 2010 bike, because I will buy a new

CRF in 2014. Anyway I need a good quality rod that can handle some serious abuse :)
I have never tested a Hot Rods or Wossner rod.

 

Hope you can give some advise from you own experience.

 

Thanks

Markus

Edited by Markus_123

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the falicon rod is the best according to ron hamp its the only one he has never broken.

 

 

I would do a 13.5 piston, all the ones u listed are great. (pump fuel safe)

 

for the rod

 

Pro x

falicon

wossner

cp

 

all great choices

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@tvalliere220: yes, I will sell my current bike, when the new one is in my garage. but so long the 2010 Honda must work for me.
further I don't wanna sell the bike with a crappy rebuild :) the parts should be good quality that is known to last, but not high end

stuff (for race teams, etc.). 

 

@adam8781: Thanks, for you information about the Falicon rods. Never heard of them before. Do you know any dealers?

 

I think it's not that difficult to choose a good piston. But for the connecting rod? Hot Rods, Wossner, ProX are all an OEM replacement.

Falicon and Carrillo are the racer's choice and you get a strong, long lasting rod. But you need to pay the price.

 

Any other experience with after market rods...?

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You didn't mention a big cam or a ported head so I will assume those are stock. If so, just run a new stock crank assembly, it'll do just fine in a non-mod motor with up to a 13.5:1 piston. Are you replacing a high-hour OEM crank?

Hello!

 

I'm setting up my shopping list for a top end rebuild + new connecting rod.

 

My thougts on the new piston are:

 

Carrillo (CP), Cosworth, Wiseco, JE, Vertex or Wossner

 

The Carrillo and Cosworth pistons are a little bit more pricey.

Wiseco, Vertex and Wossner are easy to get and not that expensive.

I used to run Vertex pistons before and had no problems so far.

But maybe there is a better one available. The piston should be a good quality

product + should last + should be lightweight. Compression standard or maybe

13.5:1 or 14.0:1

 

What are you suggestions on the pistons???

 

My list for the new connecting rod:

 

Carrillo

Hot Rods

Wossner

OEM Honda

 

The Carrillo rod is the best out there, that's for sure. But it's pretty expensive.

I don't wanna spend that much money on the 2010 bike, because I will buy a new

CRF in 2014. Anyway I need a good quality rod that can handle some serious abuse :)

I have never tested a Hot Rods or Wossner rod.

 

Hope you can give some advise from you own experience.

 

Thanks

Markus

Edited by Eddie8v

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You didn't mention a big cam or a ported head so I will assume those are stock. If so, just run a new stock crank assembly, it'll do just fine in a non-mod motor with up to a 13.5:1 piston. Are you replacing a high-hour OEM crank?

 

 

No the engine is stock no big cam or ported head. Only an after market exhaust system is installed. I think you are right with 13.5:1 piston.

Yes, I must rebuild my OEM crank. The bike has over 100 hours on the hour. So it's time for a new bike sooner or later.

 

The lower bearing from the connecting rod is smoked (engine stuck), after a long training day in the sand. I need to clean the whole engine, 

put a new connecting rod and new piston in the engine. Do you think it's better to go with a complete new crankshaft - instead of the rod?

But normally the signs of wear are on the rod + bearings...

Edited by Markus_123

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Sounds like an OEM crank is all you need. You got 100hrs out of it and sound like you're pretty hard on it. The newer ones are even better, so that's the way I would go. Save your money for the new bike.

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You didn't mention a big cam or a ported head so I will assume those are stock. If so, just run a new stock crank assembly, it'll do just fine in a non-mod motor with up to a 13.5:1 piston. Are you replacing a high-hour OEM crank?

 

Like Eddie said, get an OEM crank.  It is probably your best economical choice.  A Carrillo rod doesn't come with the pin, bearing or thrust washers which you will have to source since Honda does not sell those parts.  Falicon has a rod kit with the pin, bearing and thrust washers.  The retail cost of the Carrillo rod, with pin bearing and thrust washers, and the Falicon kit exceed what you can get a new OEM crank for and you still have to have your crank rebuilt.

 

Just order a 2013 crank assembly.  Regarding pistons, we use CP and sometimes Wiseco (but only the RC series Wiseco's which are similarly priced to CP). The Cosworth and JE are nice also.

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How much for the new crank with Carrillo rod installed?  And will you balance to a piston/ring/pin set that I send you?

Edited by Eddie8v

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I have a crap load of brand new rods  taken from new engines $25 each 2008 kx 250 f bearing

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Bigborethumpers.com has Cranks with Carrillo rods on them check it out may be an option. And a CP piston to match. 

This is an option for my new bike, when the first top end rebuild must be done. Do you use OEM Honda cranks or Hot Rods for the rebuild?

 

---

 

I think I'm going with the CP piston MX2070C with a compression ratio 13.5:1 - looks like many guys recommend the CP pistons, because they're light weight and solid (CRF450R forum).

Don't know if they are lighter than Cosworth, JE or Wiseco. One cool thing is that Cosworth comes with a DLC coated wrist pin.

---

 

About the crank: I will ask my local Honda dealer about the costs of a brand new crank from the 2013 model. Are there any modification from the 2010 to the 2013 crank?

What's an acceptable price for the Honda OEM crank?

 

One last question: Is it better to buy the complete crank (after 100 hours) or is it ok to change all the bearings and install a new connecting rod?

Edited by Markus_123

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No the engine is stock no big cam or ported head. Only an after market exhaust system is installed. I think you are right with 13.5:1 piston.

Yes, I must rebuild my OEM crank. The bike has over 100 hours on the hour. So it's time for a new bike sooner or later.

 

The lower bearing from the connecting rod is smoked (engine stuck), after a long training day in the sand. I need to clean the whole engine, 

put a new connecting rod and new piston in the engine. Do you think it's better to go with a complete new crankshaft - instead of the rod?

But normally the signs of wear are on the rod + bearings...

 

 

a rebuilt crank (when done properly) is better than a new oem crank.

 

send your crank to www.kenoconnorracing.com  they will rebuild it with a pro x rod. They get it trued to tolerances better than oem.  If you like for a few $ more you can get it rebuilt with a cp or falicon rod.

 

Since you are stock head, cam and only want togo to 13.5 I would just do a pro x rod rebuild. if its taken care of with fresh oil and air filters theres no reason you cant get 200hrs out of it.

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ga rebuilt crank (when done properly) is better than a netw oem crank.

 

send your crank to www.kenoconnorracing.com  they will rebuild it with a pro x rod. They get it trued to tolerances better than oem.  If you like for a few $ more you can get it rebuilt with a cp or falicon rod.

 

Since you are stock head, cam and only want togo to 13.5 I would just do a pro x rod rebuild. if its taken care of with fresh oil and air filters theres no reason you cant get 200hrs out of it.

how much? 09 crf250

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a rebuilt crank (when done properly) is better than a new oem crank.

 

send your crank to www.kenoconnorracing.com  they will rebuild it with a pro x rod. They get it trued to tolerances better than oem.  If you like for a few $ more you can get it rebuilt with a cp or falicon rod.

 

Since you are stock head, cam and only want togo to 13.5 I would just do a pro x rod rebuild. if its taken care of with fresh oil and air filters theres no reason you cant get 200hrs out of it.

 

Thanks for your tip about Ken OConnor Racing. Looks like he has some serious knowledge and offers all the services for a fair price! Very nice!

I thought of the ProX rod before for an economical rebuild. But I don't think it will last for 200 hours for me. But it looks like you have good experience with the rod.

Carrillo or Falicon would be my first choice on a newer bike, because they are rock solid.

Today I had some free time to dissemble the rest of the engine (split the engine).

 

What I have found:

 

1. big end cage/needle bearing was smoked

2. washers on both sides were crushed/destroyed completely (just little pieces left)

3. worst of all, crankcase right side is cracked on one spot :(

 

Wish I had done the top end rebuild and crank rebuild 15 hours before.

Don't know if the engine guy can repair the cracked spot. If not, I need a new crankcase for the right side.

Will cost around 250-300 bucks. Shit happens.

 

Some pictures:

 

317h09g.jpg

 

w6rwcn.jpg

 

2em3goh.jpg

 

2qibh9j.jpg

 

2dciivl.jpg

 

Will keep you guys updated. As soon as I have some news...

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that sucks to see buddy.

 

 

Yea all crf250 cranks seem to fail the same way as yours.  Someone who can tig weld aluminum might be able to fix that,

 

 

* just saw what ron hamp wrote, give him a call, he doesnt recommend something unless he knows it works and works well

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Rod broke on my 12. Had Varner put it back together, Went with Crank works rod and bearing so far so good.

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Its never a good idea to weld center cases at a joining area.

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theres not a problem welding that case and remachining it i would remove that chunk and just build it up new .

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