I'm back!

[Terminatr]

Just bought mi self a mint condition XR 200.  I sold my racing enduro bikes.

I think the XR 200 got 'em all beat in fun trail ride.

 

The XR 200 is the perfect trail machine. ?

Edited September 3, 2013 by Terminatr

[tracecom]

Please tell more about your XR200; pictures would be better.

[Terminatr]

It's just a all-stock '01 model. It's sweet to be able to flat foot a dirtbike for a change. I had an '02 XR with emulator forks, but sold it a year ago

and jumped on the racing enduro band wagan. Sold 'em all. Don't miss 'em.

 

I'm now tearing it apart for maintaince.

Edited September 4, 2013 by Terminatr

[Terminatr]

I'll confused about chain tension.

The little owners manual and the big workshop manual say 1.5 - 1.75 inch slack.

But the little book has picture that show you measure the slack on the top of the chain, above the swingarm. The big book shows the opposite; it shows you measure the slack on the chain below the swingarm.

I tried both method. Results are very different. So should I measure at the top or below the swingarm?

[TEOATTC]

I've always checked below the swingarm because you dont want the chain slapping against it.

[ickfinger]

Any bike I ever adjusted was done above the swingarm, center of span 1.5". Never had a prob.

[Terminatr]

Man, the previous owner had the chain extremely tight. Wow, it only had 0.5" of slack (should be 1.5").

I sure hope it didn't damage the countershaft. The previous owner said that's how he always adjusted it. So for ten years, he had it too tight.

Edited September 6, 2013 by Terminatr

[Freestyle-MX-Racer]

Man, the previous owner had the chain extremely tight. Wow, it only had 0.5" of slack (should be 1.5").

I sure hope it didn't damage the countershaft. The previous owner said that's how he always adjusted it. So for ten years, he had it too tight.

it'll be fine.

[Chuck.]

The worst thing you can do is get the chain too tight.

You can check the chain by using tie downs to pull the swing arm up until it is level then check the chain, it should have a bit of up down play. Then release the tie down and put the bike on a center stand and measure the slack in the chain; this number, or larger, measured with he bike on a center stand will insure that the chain is not too tight.

[bimbamboom]

Overly tight chains are murder on gearboxes

[WWalker]

I have an '02 XR200 and an '02 XR400....I find myself choosing the little XR more!!! It's so damn fun to ride. I use it primarily to follow my 6yr old when he's on his little 50. But I'll go exploring cow trails all over the place! The damn thing is a little mountain goat!!!

[Terminatr]

Ok guys, I have another issue: jets.

 

I rode the bike for the first time with the baffle and snorkel on the airbox. The bike ran like crap. No mid range power at all. Just burbing. Low and high range were okay.

 

I took off the baffle and the snorkel. The bike ran great.  I'm at sea level. Humid as crap today.

 

The previous owner claimed he never touched the jets, and he always ran without the baffle and snorkel. So if I can believe him, the jets are all stock 2002 model jets.

 

Since I need quiet, I gotta put the baffle and snorkel back on. So where should I start in jetting? Is it rich or lean? Pilot or main?

Edited September 8, 2013 by Terminatr

[Terminatr]

Overly tight chains are murder on gearboxes

Oh no. ?

[Chuck.]

Pulling the snorkle and/or insert lets the engine breathe better and improves throttle response but mixture changes are slight, should be able to correct with the mixture screw and/or needle clip position. I've experimented running with snorkel and muffler inserts in/out and didn't have running issues. There may be other issues.  Have you tried a new plug;

NGK  DR8ES-L  (Standard)  0.28” gap   Stock plug

NGK  DR8EIX  (Iridium)  0.31” gap

ND   X24ESR-U  (Standard)  0.28” gap

ND   IX24  (Iridium) 0.28” gap

 

Two carb models used on 98+ X200s; CA, and everywhere else.

 

The carb series/model is cast and stamped into the right side of the carb body.  The cast part is "PD", the stamped part is the model.

 

97B is CA

97A is everywhere else.

 

I've  not had a CA model so I don't know how they respond to jetting changes. Jetting is different between the two models and I don't know if air correction jets are also different, if so then you can't make a  B into a A with also changing the air correction jets and they are pressed in and not available form Honda, but you can improve a CA model.  Anyway here is stock jetting for the late model XR200s.

Year … Bike Model … Carb Model …. Size . Main …Slow . Initial ….. Clip . Float Ht

86 ….... XR200R …… PD 97A …….. 26 ….. 112 ….. 38 ….. 1 1/8 ….. 2nd ….. 12.5

87 + …. XR200R …... PD 97A ……... 26 ….. 110 ….. 38 ….. 1 1/8 ….. 3rd ….. 12.5

98 +  … XR200R …... PD 97B (CA) .. 26 ….. 102 ….. 35 ….. 1 7/8 ….. 3rd ….. 12.5

 

The needle is also different for the CA model and can also cause running issues.

The good needle is marked "F2351E", but they do wear and can cause rich running at low throttle settings.

[Terminatr]

Mine is 97A. I opened up the carb. Everything is stock size. The needle is on the third notch.

 

The plug is new. But it got pretty dark after just a 20-mile ride. I think a tad rich.

 

Going to try to clean and re-oil the filter. I might have use too much oil last time.

[gopack4749]

I have a '01 as well.  I would like to see some pics of yours.

[Terminatr]

[uPDATE] I figured out the jetting issue. It's actually not a jetting issue. I had the snorkel on backward. I guess it was sufferly restricting air flow.

After I put the snorkel on pointing backward, bike runs great now!

 

Edited September 22, 2013 by Terminatr