2008 TE250 reliable and easy to maintain?

Thinking about buying a nearly new 2008 TE250 but I have no room to do a lot of maintenance.  Also it's hard for me to get more parts.  Is the TE250 one of those bikes that require a breakdown and rebuild every XXX hours like a race bike, or can I just change the oil and go?  I think there are valve checks ever 1k miles, but othre than that?

 

Thanks in advance!

Thinking about buying a nearly new 2008 TE250 but I have no room to do a lot of maintenance.  Also it's hard for me to get more parts.  Is the TE250 one of those bikes that require a breakdown and rebuild every XXX hours like a race bike, or can I just change the oil and go?  I think there are valve checks ever 1k miles, but othre than that?

 

Thanks in advance!

Bike should be very reliable and not need much other than smart maintenance. Check the valves ASAP, but mine have not budged since new.

I often hear how race bikes need new rings and other work often...this one doesn't. ..right?

The bike will be with me in korea and I wont have easy access to parts or a shop all the time.

Nope. It's also not a race bike if that's what you're thinking. Tough call though. if something did break I have no idea what the parts position you would be in.

Im in that situation anyway...but no I dont want a race bike...just a reliable woods bike. Thanks!

Parts are easy to get! The TE 250 is a great woods bike!

Nope. It's also not a race bike if that's what you're thinking. Tough call though. if something did break I have no idea what the parts position you would be in.

Not a true statement, it is a race bike just not on the edge like some of the other in the class. I had one and it gave me 3800 miles and 200 hrs. of trouble free fun before I sold it. The new owner still runs it and should have another 50hrs or so by now. My valves moved twice in that time period at .005" total on intake and one exhaust. Far easier to maintain than the newer ones. Don't have to remove the cam, real bearings and just a bolt to drain oil. Get an extra air filter and several oil filters and you should be good for some time. Valve shim kits are not needed but plan on a week down for shims to arrive in the mail. Otherwise visit a Jap dealer and use the 450's shims, they are the same size.

Hmm...

 

Though 3800 miles (as an example) is a lot offroad, relatively speaking, I can see the bike getting that much here in a year...it'll be pressed into light (very light) DS work.  Going from home to the trailhead (maybe 30 miles at times) and between trails. 

 

3800 (the example) should be just a start.  Not sure what these bikes are capable of, but I'd hope they're good into the 20k range before a serious catastrophe is expected.  (???)

 

 

Wrong bike for that work, or should be ok?

Edited by 1200GS

Those miles also had light DS work, little but some. This bike should see 5,000 miles before any motor work at a minimum. The motor doesn't like steady throttle on the road, never hold it steady for long periods on the road. Is it a good bike for you?? If you want 10,000 miles out of the motor then NO, get a WR250r! Not as good off road but much better on road and longevity.

I have a WR250R back in the States.  My "other" bike  here would be a local (only) compliment to my GS.  Sometimes I'll even put it on a Ultimate MX hauler behind the Jeep and take it other places.  I can see some in-town hooliganing too, and wonder if I ought to just get the damned WR.  Both are good bikes, but I'm tempted by a particular TE right now...

 

Either way I doubt I'd keep either a TE or WR here more than about 3 years...and between it, the GS, and family stuff, 5k might be a BIG impossible dream anyway...

Edited by 1200GS

I think you have your answer, have fun.

All I have to say is... front fork seals. Yearly.

My answer may be different than what you think it was.  :)  I'm closing on the TE.  Pretty happy with that decision, though I think I'd be happy either way.  Was that what you were expecting me to choose?


All I have to say is... front fork seals. Yearly.

Why so often?!

My answer may be different than what you think it was.  :)  I'm closing on the TE.  Pretty happy with that decision, though I think I'd be happy either way.  Was that what you were expecting me to choose?

Why so often?!

Yes

 

Fork seals, more importantly OEM seals don't last long. Use Synergy seals and fork savers, never change them again. Why?? they wanted a light stick free seal but this leads to wear issues. Some have tighten the spring in the seal others like me went the fool proof way.

 

http://www.shop.synergyseals.com/Husqvarna_c11.htm;jsessionid=0E4CD364080FCF7EF71EE3A8F02D3E86.m1plqscsfapp05

 

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/44/54/280/1059/-/6037/Seal-Savers-Fork-Covers?term=fork saver tusk

Edited by weantright

Awesome, thanks for the info.

While looking at the bike, rear brake hose rubs on the case. Loosen banjo bolt and rotate hose loop away. Also heat tape on the air box to prevent melting from mid pipe and hold the battery down better. Twist on the spark plug cap better and tape to prevent movement and water shorting out the plug.

Simple, and very helpful.  Thanks again!!!!!!!!!!

Those bikes are pretty reliable.

You might want to consider an Athena 310 kit when it's time for a re build.

I've seen them on ebay priced anywhere between $450 to $850

Much better overall bike with the 310 however I lost a lot of mileage with the factory 310 and a race ECU.

Replace radiator crossover hose with high pressure fuel hose. Replace "T" in cooling system with an Uptite "Y" or, if your cheap, replace all radiator hoses (several) with a one 2010 TC 250 radiator hose.

 Great bikes if you can keep up on the fork seals. Learn to clean out the seals too.

 Motor is as bombproof as they come.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now