Ohlins 46mm cartridge removal

I've torn the fork apart, but can't seem to be able to remove the cartridge from inner tube, for thorough cleanup.

I did unscrew the base valve nut, but it doesnt come off.

I should probably hold sth inside the fork tube, but while turning the base nut, nothing else seems to turn inside the tube.

Also pressing the rod doesnt seem to push the base out.

Theres a triangular unit, called cylinder tube cap, that the rod slides through, and is the only visible thing from top.

Its a plain, single chamber fork.

I don't have the answer...

However, on the older open cartridge based roadracing forks, there was a special tool which went into the tube and allowed you to unscrew the cartridge from the fork tube. I assume it works the same way on the older motocross forks.

I have worked on these and can remember having problems, I think you can download the manual from the ohlins website, they were a pain to bleed I seem to remember

Try a impact gun to break any threadlock

I have a set of 46mm ohlins on my 03TM racing 250...you need a special tool to separate them. If you can find a length of PVC pipe slightly smaller than the inside diameter of the fork tube, you could easily fab your own tool. If you pm me i can send you a pdf manual that shows you the tool and you can try to fab your own. You just slide the pvc over the cartridge until it bottoms and unthread it from the tube.

Try a impact gun to break any threadlock

No, don't.

Thx guys.

Ive managed to remove the base, with unscrewing and carefully prying it out...it was held tight by oring only.

Manual online is not so helpful, Ive managed to find (on TT) info, the best way to bleed, is with comp screw closed.



Dirk, those are also from TM, 400 '03, exactly the one that front flips on YT



Ok, will pm..

as seen on pic, I presume the tool should grab through those 3 holes



Edited by 5valve

No need for special tools for cartridge removal. Just tap it gently from the base, whether on the threads or lower flow holes. Its not threaded but press fit.

Bleeding is hard, but if you close the compression, oil quickly fills the chamber. Stroke the rod up then down and wait till bubbles stop surfacing and repeat.

But be careful, when stroking with comp. closed. It gets really hard, and it tends to kick back.

Nothing wrong with it, but if you force it too much, as I did, the rebound needle gets spat out and a minor oil spill will occur.

No problem pressing the needle back with extension rod.

Edited by 5valve

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