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Is this a good manual clutch?

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Fantastic kit, I highly recommend it. It uses the stock clutch and you can make clutch use either optional or mandatory. It's very easy, replace the side cover and set it up just like any other cable clutch. Even though it is a cable clutch it's very smooth and responsive just like the hydro's. I have owned both and for the price of the other clutches, I can tell you this is the nicest.

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Actually, the Takegawa clutch is the nicest. Hydro or cable, the Tak is so smoooth..

The gear driven actuator makes all the difference, But it's a lot more expensive than these.

The "Modenas" clutches have a friction pivot (flat on round) metal to metal actuator thingy, so not quite a smooth & linear as the Take's, but they work great though.

Another popular option is to put the 110L clutch parts on it. I hear it's smoother than the "Modenas", and less $$$ then the Takegawa.

I'll go see if I can find the thread on PM and link you to it back here.. standby.....

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http://planetminis.com/forums/klx110-drz110-ttr90/159382-manual-clutch-recomendations-cable.html#entry1655091

 

http://planetminis.com/forums/klx110-drz110-ttr90/164718-110l-manual-clutch-110-a.html#post1698302

 

Oh, yeah to answer your question... Yeah, for $139 it works great.. Like 110Tim posted above, easy install too..

Go with a cable, the hydro's always end up leaking, unless you can find an old Two-Bros, with the stainless steel plunger..

If you want to go full-manual at some point, you can also get a primary drive gear and lose all the extra rotating mass of the autoclutch components..

 

http://tboltusa.com/store/22t-primary-drive-gear-klx110-tb-new-type-p-2628.html

 

Vince at T-Bolt is a great guy and has everything you will ever need!

Edited by XLR8RR

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Thanks for the taking the time to respond to my question, my son and I both appreciate it. I feel much more comfortable now doing a manual clutch.

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http://planetminis.com/forums/klx110-drz110-ttr90/159382-manual-clutch-recomendations-cable.html#entry1655091

 

http://planetminis.com/forums/klx110-drz110-ttr90/164718-110l-manual-clutch-110-a.html#post1698302

 

Oh, yeah to answer your question... Yeah, for $139 it works great.. Like 110Tim posted above, easy install too..

Go with a cable, the hydro's always end up leaking, unless you can find an old Two-Bros, with the stainless steel plunger..

If you want to go full-manual at some point, you can also get a primary drive gear and lose all the extra rotating mass of the autoclutch components..

 

http://tboltusa.com/store/22t-primary-drive-gear-klx110-tb-new-type-p-2628.html

 

Vince at T-Bolt is a great guy and has everything you will ever need!

I see this thread is a few months old but curious how much work is involved in making the TBolt kit fully manual? I already have it setup as semi but hinting of going full.

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I see this thread is a few months old but curious how much work is involved in making the TBolt kit fully manual? I already have it setup as semi but hinting of going full.

It's simple, You can either use the lockout washer, or replace the whole autoclutch assembly with a primary drive gear (link above^^)(and lose the extra rotating mass).. 0623.jpg&h=166&w=250&zc=1Here's the install manual:

http://tboltusa.com/store/tech.php?pID=106/TB+Manual+Clutch+Install+KLX+%28Semi+%26+Full+Manual%29

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It's simple, You can either use the lockout washer, or replace the whole autoclutch assembly with a primary drive gear (link above^^)(and lose the extra rotating mass).. Posted ImageHere's the install manual:

http://tboltusa.com/store/tech.php?pID=106/TB+Manual+Clutch+Install+KLX+%28Semi+%26+Full+Manual%29

You HAVE to have that? The tbolt kit says it comes with everything needed to go full manual because it comes with a spacer...

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No, you don't have to use that primary drive gear. You can simply use the included lockout washer (spacer).

The primary drive gear does the same thing (locks the crank to the clutch basket), but gets rid of more power-robbing rotating mass.. (The rest of the auto-clutch assembly)

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No, you don't have to use that primary drive gear. You can simply use the included lockout washer (spacer).

The primary drive gear does the same thing (locks the crank to the clutch basket), but gets rid of more power-robbing rotating mass.. (The rest of the auto-clutch assembly)

ok. is there any negative effects of using the gear instead of the spacer? is there any more possibility of anything breaking? where in the process do i put in the gear? 

Edited by jawknee21

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ok. is there any negative effects of using the gear instead of the spacer? is there any more possibility of anything breaking? where in the process do i put in the gear? 

No, probably less possibility of other stuff breaking.. except maybe the output shaft if it's pre '08.. haha... Those all break eventually...

Take the auto clutch crap off the shaft, put the primary gear on. done..

Here's the install manual for the Takegawa clutch cover, which does require the primary drive gear, wheras the modenas does not require it.. But anyway there's a pic at the bottom of pg 4 with the PDG installed...

http://www.twobros.com/Cust_Service/Install_Inst/022-3-01-0332_cable_man_clutch_cover_kit.pdf

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No, probably less possibility of other stuff breaking.. except maybe the output shaft if it's pre '08.. haha... Those all break eventually...

Take the auto clutch crap off the shaft, put the primary gear on. done..

Here's the install manual for the Takegawa clutch cover, which does require the primary drive gear, wheras the modenas does not require it.. But anyway there's a pic at the bottom of pg 4 with the PDG installed...

http://www.twobros.com/Cust_Service/Install_Inst/022-3-01-0332_cable_man_clutch_cover_kit.pdf

they dont require it but i can still use it the same? im planning on buying an 05klx110 tomorrow. im gonna buy the modenas clutch kit and the primary gear. im going to have like a million more questions for you. it seems like you're one of the few that actually answers. i've been reading all your posts over on PM. theres so much to learn. I want to set it up as an sm. but its just to play on for now. I just really wanted something smaller to learn wheelies on so i dont destroy my big bikes...

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Ya you can use the primary with the modenas no prob..

Vince at T-bolt has the clutch/primary as a combo deal; comes with the anodized cover too:

http://tboltusa.com/store/drz110-klx110-manual-clutch-kit-full-manual-p-5258.html

 

Get a frame cradle from him first thing:

http://tboltusa.com/store/trc-cradle-mount-frame-klxdrz110s-klx110l-p-819.html

 

And if you're going soopermotardo with it, you'll need a set of these 2.15x12 rims for the street rubber:

http://www.radmfg.com/CACR-Rim-12x2-15-p/cacr-12x215.htm

 

And you can wheelie it without a clutch lever........ in stock form...

When it's in gear, a bit of upward pressure on the shift lever will slip the clutch.

Little pressure up, throttle it up, drop shift lever back down, wheelie...

Edited by XLR8RR
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Ya you can use the primary with the modenas no prob..

Vince at T-bolt has the clutch/primary as a combo deal; comes with the anodized cover too:

http://tboltusa.com/store/drz110-klx110-manual-clutch-kit-full-manual-p-5258.html

 

Get a frame cradle from him first thing:

http://tboltusa.com/store/trc-cradle-mount-frame-klxdrz110s-klx110l-p-819.html

 

And if you're going soopermotardo with it, you'll need a set of these 2.15x12 rims for the street rubber:

http://www.radmfg.com/CACR-Rim-12x2-15-p/cacr-12x215.htm

 

And you can wheelie it without a clutch lever........ in stock form...

When it's in gear, a bit of upward pressure on the shift lever will slip the clutch.

Little pressure up, throttle it up, drop shift lever back down, wheelie...

you think the one with the anodized cover is better? Its $40 more. Whats different about that kit? 

 

that cradle is definitely being bought first. 

So I just have to get the stock hubs laced to those rims? 

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Hmm ya, it's the same clutch, looks like the only difference is the clutch perch....

clutch -          $140

Primary gear - $60

TB cover -       $20

So $20 more for a better clutch perch....

And it looks like Vince only has red covers right now.. which turn pink eventually..

Probably better off to buy them seperately, and get a cover elsewhere.

Upgrade your perch later with something better than either of those..

I've got a billet Works Connection with ASV lever on mine... Fully adjustable..

Yup, lace your stock hubs to those motard rims, call them about spokes..

Dunlop TT92's for grip..... Or Sava tires ...

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Hmm ya, it's the same clutch, looks like the only difference is the clutch perch....

clutch - $140

Primary gear - $60

TB cover - $20

So $20 more for a better clutch perch....

And it looks like Vince only has red covers right now.. which turn pink eventually..

Probably better off to buy them seperately, and get a cover elsewhere.

Upgrade your perch later with something better than either of those..

I've got a billet Works Connection with ASV lever on mine... Fully adjustable..

Yup, lace your stock hubs to those motard rims, call them about spokes..

Dunlop TT92's for grip..... Or Sava tires ...

So I've got even more problems now. Should I just start a new thread? I have no brakes at all. I just bought this bike and the front master was empty and the rear was full of water. I'm hoping that's all. It's got pitster pro suspension front and back. I'm thinking of using a kx65 front master and getting a rear master from tb. They have one for $35. I just need to know if the rod can be removed and shortened. I barely got it and can't even ride yet. Are the calipers on the pitster and the kx65 the same? I'm not sure if they're even worth messing with after I saw how much rusty water came out...

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Flush em' out and rebleed them, they still might work okay.

Call Vince at T-Bolt. He's a PitsterPro dealer and can answer all those Pitster questions for you.

Super cool guy...

Post it up on PM, there's guys there that know a lot more than I do, and you'll get more replies than the KLX forum on TT..

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