offworlder

What did you do to your Beta today ?

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Posted (edited)

I might bite the bullet and get the fox raptor... Then see ifI can make it cooler if possible. The protection on the side does look great though. The acerbis is just much more vented.

Edited by hawaiidirtrider

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Hawaii

I have the new fox raptor and yes first ride the shoulder protector fell off

and the dealers were no help, so i fixed it my self with a rivet.

The chest protector feels good when on and not to hot.

I like the side protection for the ribs.

Hope this helps.

 

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34 minutes ago, Nick450X said:

Hawaii

I have the new fox raptor and yes first ride the shoulder protector fell off

and the dealers were no help, so i fixed it my self with a rivet.

The chest protector feels good when on and not to hot.

I like the side protection for the ribs.

Hope this helps.

 

Cool! That’s one good review!

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Did a valve check. Not even close to needing to be adjusted. 

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3 minutes ago, Frank A said:

Did a valve check. Not even close to needing to be adjusted. 

OK, just bought a 4T.  Have done tons of valve checks on Husky's, Honda's, Yamaha's, KTM's (and cars/trucks).  I looked at my Beta, and can't see how to even get the cover off given the clearance between the frame and valve cover.  Is it easier than it looks, or what's the process to get in there?  Also, what are the clearance specs for our bikes?

 

Many thanks,

 

Mark

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11 hours ago, markbfe501 said:

OK, just bought a 4T.  Have done tons of valve checks on Husky's, Honda's, Yamaha's, KTM's (and cars/trucks).  I looked at my Beta, and can't see how to even get the cover off given the clearance between the frame and valve cover.  Is it easier than it looks, or what's the process to get in there?  Also, what are the clearance specs for our bikes?

 

Many thanks,

 

Mark

Here's a procedure for my 2014 520RS: Once the fuel tank is pulled, pull & place plug wire up near the CDI for working room, cut zip ties & unplug and move right hand wire loom, remove rear motor mounts, remove valve cover screws, free up clutch hose and hold to rear (I use an Allen wrench), keep valve cover low and lead removal with left rear corner, clear left rear, lift front and roll cover back while turning cover clockwise.

Specs for my bike are intake 0.10 mm - 0.175 mm, exhaust 0.125 mm - 0.20 mm. I'm at 130 hrs., have done checks religiously and haven't needed to make any adjustments yet.  Hope this helps,works for me.

Edited by desertrat28
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21 hours ago, markbfe501 said:

OK, just bought a 4T.  Have done tons of valve checks on Husky's, Honda's, Yamaha's, KTM's (and cars/trucks).  I looked at my Beta, and can't see how to even get the cover off given the clearance between the frame and valve cover.  Is it easier than it looks, or what's the process to get in there?  Also, what are the clearance specs for our bikes?

 

Many thanks,

 

Mark

You need to measure the clearence between the cam and the follower, not the follower and the shim. When reinstalling the head stays, put all the bolts in loose, before tightening. It is still difficult as the stay mounts bolt holes are tight. Also change out the "special screw" on the valve cover with a normal one. Anti-seize is your friend.

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Just now, Frank A said:

You need to measure the clearence between the cam and the follower, not the follower and the shim. When reinstalling the head stays, put all the bolts in loose, before tightening. It is still difficult as the stay mounts bolt holes are tight. Also change out the "special screw" on the valve cover with a normal one. Anti-seize is your friend.

Forgot, watchout for the small gasket on the inside of the cover, which is around the spark plug channel. It will come out.

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