offworlder

What did you do to your Beta today ?

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Cutting trail can be frustrating sometimes...this one is pretty open and easy to cut, but still took me a whole day to make.

 

My old cutting set-up...this was pre-Beta, I now carry the same saw in a backpack.

IMG_20140119_130606_zps296a0fcc.jpg

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Sierra; I would be interested in seeing your backpack set-up, I had a similar set-up on my YZ's made out of discarded nylon cutting boards. Never got comfortable at speed with the front mounted saw - I finally gave up carrying one when I purchased my Beta and let the young guys carry them (young is a relative term, they are in their mid-fiftys). I'm thinking a backpack set-up may be a better way to go.

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On 2/4/2018 at 1:24 AM, drumiv said:

Mounted the Scotts Stabilizer. To do so, I had to remove the lowering like, and drop the forks back to stock so the unit would clear. I'm interested in seeing if it improves the higher speed stability. I would think it would.

You using the BRP submount?  Mine limited fork leg adjustment too.

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Got my fork tubes back from hardcoat. Instead of the military looking olive green they turn when left 'natural', I got black hardcoat. It 'might' be a tiny bit softer than natural hardcoat, but true hardcoat is way overkill and rarely done on forks to begin with. So this should still have way better wear resistance than standard type II anodize on most (if not all) OEM forks.

 

I'll see how things last, but I'm quite pleased with how they turned out. I actually like it much better than the red. It doesn't look like standard black either. It is more of a matte/industrial look still like the olive type color you see when guys get it done.

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The new hotness,

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Looks good.  My Race Tech job on 48 Zokes came back black with a slight brownish tint.  A set of same Zokes from Steve's guy came back dark gold tint, a lot like a KYB.  I've seen the Sachs with a more greenish tint.  How does the inside surface look, uniform?   That is what counts.  I wouldn't care if they were pink if they lasted for a few hundred hours.

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 How does the inside surface look, uniform?   That is what counts.


  I wouldn't care if they were pink if they lasted for a few hundred hours.


The inside surfaces looked like the outside, but a bit more shiny since the surface finish inside is smoother. The fixtures were a bunch of (4 minimum on each end) fingers on each end. So the current would have run on the ID just as it did the OD.

With the quality of the red anodize on the CC forks, I think they would be pink if they ever were to last 200 hours... Lol
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On 2/6/2018 at 1:15 PM, mtdirtbag said:

Sierra; I would be interested in seeing your backpack set-up, I had a similar set-up on my YZ's made out of discarded nylon cutting boards. Never got comfortable at speed with the front mounted saw - I finally gave up carrying one when I purchased my Beta and let the young guys carry them (young is a relative term, they are in their mid-fiftys). I'm thinking a backpack set-up may be a better way to go.

FWIW a rear fender saw mount is doable with Beta bikes.  On mine I mounted a Pro Moto Billet saw carrier plate to the Beta rear fender rack.  (When not carrying the saw I can attach a 1 gallon rotopax to the rack for extended fuel range.)

In my experience there is no convenient place to carry a saw.  Even a small top-handle saw like mine can easily go 12+ lbs. with scabbard, fuel, oil, and tools etc.  Like you I don't like it over my forks in the gnarly stuff, but on my back it makes me tired and on my rear rack I occasionally experience spontaneous wheelies when lofting over big rocks in steep uphill terrain.  Your idea to let the young bucks carry the saw is best, but I have yet to meet one who owns his own saw.

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wwguy; I've seen your set-up in other posts and that would be ideal - except for a short fella trying to get on and off. I like the idea of the backpack set-up as sometimes when we camp I get out early to secure a spot for the group and have a few extra hours to get downfall started (if I convince my wife to let me out by myself:rolleyes:) then the next day I'll let the others carry. We have a good bunch and sometimes will have up to four saws carried, in recent years we seem to cut for a month or two on weekends. There is so much down anymore due to fires and beetle kill and we try to discourage riders from creating alternate lines to keep the FS & State off our backs. You probably see the same in Idaho. 

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4 hours ago, mtdirtbag said:

wwguy; I've seen your set-up in other posts and that would be ideal - except for a short fella trying to get on and off. I like the idea of the backpack set-up as sometimes when we camp I get out early to secure a spot for the group and have a few extra hours to get downfall started (if I convince my wife to let me out by myself:rolleyes:) then the next day I'll let the others carry. We have a good bunch and sometimes will have up to four saws carried, in recent years we seem to cut for a month or two on weekends. There is so much down anymore due to fires and beetle kill and we try to discourage riders from creating alternate lines to keep the FS & State off our backs. You probably see the same in Idaho. 

mtdirtbag what I did was make a wooden base that bolted to the bottom of my saw, was about 12" x 16" roughly, and I padded that and then made two shoulder straps that attach to the base.  An old flat, thick tow strap worked good for the straps.  This way I can throw the saw directly on my back, pull it off and be cutting in seconds.  The base stays on the saw the whole time.  I'm using a Husky 455 Rancher so it's a little big and I have to be careful I don't catch the bar on branches since it sticks up above my helmet a bit, a smaller saw would probably work better. 

I don't have it on the saw currently but it's in my garage and I can snap a pic later if that helps.

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On 2/6/2018 at 0:15 PM, mtdirtbag said:

Sierra; I would be interested in seeing your backpack set-up, I had a similar set-up on my YZ's made out of discarded nylon cutting boards. Never got comfortable at speed with the front mounted saw - I finally gave up carrying one when I purchased my Beta and let the young guys carry them (young is a relative term, they are in their mid-fiftys). I'm thinking a backpack set-up may be a better way to go.

No pics right now, as I'm outta state at the moment. Just a backpack with the exterior pocket with straps that clip together. I just slide the saw in and route the clips through the handle bar of the saw. It's not ideal as the weight really limits how much stuff you can pack. The saw itself weighs hardly anything(10ish lbs) but tools, water, bar oil etc really add up. It's all a trade-off...fork mount ruins the handling imo and the rear rack looks like it would limit my body positioning on steep downhills/obstacles. 

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Sierra & Dances; thanks for the replies - no need for pics, I think if I get serious about carrying it I'll just have to spend the time putting something together. The saw I use is a Husqvarna which is fairly light and 18" bar, don't have to worry about fuel as I fill from the bike and extra bar oil is minimal. 

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Had a pretty hard get off a few weeks back on my 390, sprained both wrists and the bike slammed down a hard pack (clay) hillside. The front end was all crooked.

Finally got the front end properly loose and ready for a correct adjustment, which I do like this:

  1. loosen lower triple
  2. loosen axel pinch bolts
  3. remove axle bolt, remove axle (and wheel), clean, lightly grease axle
  4. run emery paper through the axle openings in forks to take off any edges
  5. slide axle without wheel through the front forks to check for straight forks and matching heights
  6. adjust fork heights as needed in upper triple to make axle slide through both forks easily; i.e. both forks are aligned to correct heights. The axle slides buttery smooth through the forks now

Only problem is the fork heights are off by one ring as seen in pics. Never seen this happen before. The steering moves from lock to lock smoothly and the upper triple 'seems' fine. Bike only has 30 hours. Any ideas what's wrong? Maybe someone else experienced the same? I used to perform the above when I brought home a new bike, I never did with this bike, so I can't say that it is from the wreck or was always like this. By 'eyeballing' everything looks straight.

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Happy Friday.

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6 minutes ago, mortimersmythe said:

Had a pretty hard get off a few weeks back on my 390, sprained both wrists and the bike slammed down a hard pack (clay) hillside. The front end was all crooked.

Finally got the front end properly loose and ready for a correct adjustment, which I do like this:

  1. loosen lower triple
  2. loosen axel pinch bolts
  3. remove axle bolt, remove axle (and wheel), clean, lightly grease axle
  4. run emery paper through the axle openings in forks to take off any edges
  5. slide axle without wheel through the front forks to check for straight forks and matching heights
  6. adjust fork heights as needed in upper triple to make axle slide through both forks easily; i.e. both forks are aligned to correct heights. The axle slides buttery smooth through the forks now

Only problem is the fork heights are off by one ring as seen in pics. Never seen this happen before. The steering moves from lock to lock smoothly and the upper triple 'seems' fine. Bike only has 30 hours. Any ideas what's wrong? Maybe someone else experienced the same? I used to perform the above when I brought home a new bike, I never did with this bike, so I can't say that it is from the wreck or was always like this. By 'eyeballing' everything looks straight.

IMG_3698.JPG.6e0a7758fa5d43d6f021ca3b14d02843.JPG

IMG_3699.JPG.a88accfad18ceef3448be69c7e2ac236.JPG

IMG_3700.JPG.13bd43eacf3b5c687950595566fe4c4a.JPG

IMG_3701.JPG.06e3ee569429e47e056fc7c8e682c692.JPG

Happy Friday.

I would set height on the forks in the triples first meaning set the forks at the appropriate matched heights. Fork tube lengths are fixed, if both tubes are not the same length..........something is definitely wrong and I'd talk to beta. The inner tube which moves in and out has a variable length based on compression/fluid/movement/springs etc etc. If when your triples are torqued and the forks lined up in the triple, you have length discrepancy on the inner tubes, something internally is off/installed incorrectly. If when in the air as pictured, they are the same length you should be g2g.

I would then repeat the tire install procedure. Also when installing the wheel to align the forks, you need to bounce/compress/push through stroke, then spin the tire and use the brake to line the wheel up. If you have binding at that point it could be something internal in the fork. You would be hard pressed to bend that axle.

 

Sidenote - on my 18, I checked the torque on the triples and the factory setting caused binding. Dropped by serveral Nm from 12 on lower bolts to 10nm. No more binding.

 

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34 minutes ago, NEGbrap said:

Sidenote - on my 18, I checked the torque on the triples and the factory setting caused binding. Dropped by serveral Nm from 12 on lower bolts to 10nm. No more binding.

Congrats on the '18 and thanks for suggestions - good info here.

22 minutes ago, mtdirtbag said:

Have you taken a measurement of both fork tubes fully extended?

Yeah, they are off, somethings up. Teardown commences... now.

Thanks both for the clear-headed-common-sense-back-to-basics-reality-check advice.

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8 minutes ago, mortimersmythe said:

Congrats on the '18 and thanks for suggestions - good info here.

Yeah, they are off, somethings up. Teardown commences... now.

Thanks both for the clear-headed-common-sense-back-to-basics-reality-check advice.

Good call. They would never ride right if the heights were compromised.

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Weekend started early...nobody on the trails. Great facking day

KtVV3Y.jpg

 

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Added a Kenda Ibex (was a old mt 16 diehard), golden fatty front, and a fmf gnarly to the xtrainer, combo works great for the terrain out here in Hawaii.

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