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fork respring/revalve questions diy

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Im wanting to improve my front end for some mxing, Im a fat ass at 300lbs and the stockers arent cutting it for me. 

 

Im hoping to do it myself if possible, i have a 92 xr600. I found the springs on ebay, eibach .45? but what else do I need? Every time i google xr600 fork revalve I dont find much in the way of answers. 

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If you weigh 300 pounds, you need springs a whole lot stiffer than .45 rate.  Mabye something closer to .55 or .60 if anyone makes those rates.

 

The problem is that you'll need to changing the rebound valving to compensate for the much stronger springs.  And because those forks don't have rebound clickers, you'll need to get the valving pretty close.  And it will be dramatically different than stock.  You'll also want to stiffen the compression damping, but having compression clickers will give you a little leeway in getting it right.  The very crude way to effectively change your valving is to use different viscosities of fork oil.

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The very crude way to effectively change your valving is to use different viscosities of fork oil.

i did this on my 92WR250 went from 5 weight to 10 it made it!! the spring weight is fine as is

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I know you want to save money BUT I would check around for susp guy check at the shops or track they are allways guys doing work at the tracks. As it will take some big changes in valving and without tools and know how you will do more damage than good! And will cost more in the long run! Also you will need shock done too they HAVE to work together! And then if it dont work just right he will make adj and changes no cost! To give you a idea my 650L its was 600 dollars for revalving front and back new seals bumber on shock. Plus shorten travel on USD conversion as CR has 12.5 travel XR 11.5 Did not need springs as im 180lbs so figure 200 more So about 900 bucks. BUT it will be the best money you ever spent on bike! That is the most important thing on bike to make it work for you pipes,carb,piston motor work dont mean S--T if it dont handle!

CAM00116.jpg

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Another option is to convert to USD forks from a 2003+ Honda CRF.  Not only are they vastly better forks, but replacement springs are common and there is DIY revalving info available.  And the conversion cost would be a similar to a professional revalve of the XR6 forks.

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Or look into the Race TEch gold valves.  It's debatable whether the valves themselves offer much benefit; but what you're buying is the valving info that lets your DIY.  Check first to see if they have info for your weight and appropriate spring rate.

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Or look into the Race TEch gold valves.  It's debatable whether the valves themselves offer much benefit; but what you're buying is the valving info that lets your DIY.  Check first to see if they have info for your weight and appropriate spring rate.

Dont waste your money on gold valves!

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Take a look at an exploded view of XR forks. They do not have floating pistons or damping shim stacks like late forks therefore there are no "gold valves" for them. Forks with shim stacks can be improved greatly without the valve getting changed at all. Just the proper shim stack is plenty good for most. Revalving conventional cartridge forks generally involves plugging and /or redrilling holes to change damping characteristics.

Edited by valvesrule
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I thought by 1992 the XRs were getting cartridge forks?  If the poster has damper rod forks then I agee they're better used for tomato plant stakes.

 

The original poster is asking for valve stack info for a 300lb rider.  I don't think that info is freely available online.  What gold valves are selling is basically the intellectual property of the valving stacks, plus a pretty little new piston that looks nice in the package.  So that's the cheapest way to get valve stack info.

 

Either way, a USD swap to 2003+ CRF forks is best, but not cheapest.

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Thanks for all the replies. I do like the crf swap option and its pretty straight forward. Guessing stock crf forks will probably handle my weight alot better than my worn out xr's? 

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Thanks for all the replies. I do like the crf swap option and its pretty straight forward. Guessing stock crf forks will probably handle my weight alot better than my worn out xr's? 

 

 Definitely. But still not where you should be.  Some of them come with .45 and some with .47, which are right for me at 225lbs.  That is a BIG difference for me over the xr's stockers. But still probably less than difference from .47's to what you really need, which is . 50+ but truthfully that's a big heavy bike and your a big man. those are NOT good combinations for motocross and jumps!  You could set that bike up to nicely trail ride with your weight, but I don't think it's possible to race that without hurting it and/or you. If you insist (good for you), then the CR front end would seem a very logical move. If 600lbs of bike and rider racing can be logical.  ;)

Have fun.  Don't kill yourself.   :devil:

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Lol thanks MindBlower. Not really jumping much, except small jumps. Mainly whoops and large fast bumps are my main concern. I here a thunk from the front end bottoming out while hitting anything very hard. I would save and get a newer bike with better tech BUT I LOVE this bike, the power band is just perfect to me and its been crazy reliable.

 

Im hoping to lose weight because of riding it too. I just made a small track with whoops and lots of berms and after a few laps I am dead tired and sore as hell, thats got to be a good sign.

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I thought by 1992 the XRs were getting cartridge forks?  If the poster has damper rod forks then I agee they're better used for tomato plant stakes.

 

The original poster is asking for valve stack info for a 300lb rider.  I don't think that info is freely available online.  What gold valves are selling is basically the intellectual property of the valving stacks, plus a pretty little new piston that looks nice in the package.  So that's the cheapest way to get valve stack info.

 

Either way, a USD swap to 2003+ CRF forks is best, but not cheapest.

Cartridge does not necessarily mean shim stacks. 92 XRs are cartridge. Cartridge is determined by the dampers being supported by a rod from the bottom of the fork cap rather than a bolt from the axle end and not shim stacks. One should compare it to car struts where a "cartridge" shock replacement is the operative component. Gold (brass)) valves are provided with larger ports for greater oil flow than standard pistons and do help but aren't an absolute requirement. But simply changing the thickness, diameter and number of shims in a stack would hardly be a patentable product on it's own hence the brass pistons. Dual chamber USDs is the only serious option if you really intend to moto x an XR.

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Lol thanks MindBlower. Not really jumping much, except small jumps. Mainly whoops and large fast bumps are my main concern. I here a thunk from the front end bottoming out while hitting anything very hard. I would save and get a newer bike with better tech BUT I LOVE this bike, the power band is just perfect to me and its been crazy reliable.

 

Im hoping to lose weight because of riding it too. I just made a small track with whoops and lots of berms and after a few laps I am dead tired and sore as hell, thats got to be a good sign.

 

 

It's definitely a killer workout.  

 I've lost 40lbs in the past year. (not riding, but  working out 5 days a week)

Not to get on a soapbox but it's all about keeping your blood sugar level all day.  Eating every 3 - 4 hrs keeps you feeling good and your blood sugar from swinging all over the place. GOTTA eat something (protein at least some of every snack) in the first hour after waking up, keeps your body (furnace) "stoked' and burning proper fuel instead of going into "conserve energy" mode when our blood sugar drops and we don't supply our body with foood.

I've never eaten as much, or not felt hunger as I am while losing this weight.   FWIW   ;)

Edited by MindBlower

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Cannon Race Craft (or similar) makes and sells custom springs to your specifications. If you can find out what spring rate you should have, they can supply them.

 You'll need to get a much stiffer spring for the rear as well or the bike will be way unbalanced.   ( I run an 11.5 on one bike and 12.0 on the other), so you'd be in the 13.-14. range I would guess. 

I think they were about $130 for each end. 

 

As was said, then the adjustments are going to barely work as the springs are soo much stiffer, you REALLY want to have the fork tubes and rear shock sent out to be adjusted for your weight and the type of riding you'll be doing.

 Can get REALLY expensive from the "big name places" ($1,000+) but there are lots of suspension shops that will spring and tune them for around $300 each end, which if the spring is $100-125, isn't bad.

Still $600-700 maybe, but it would TRANSFORM that bike and you would instantly be SO MUCH BETTER it would be ridiculous.

 

Anybody 230ish+lbs has never ridden a properly suspended bike unless they've ridden one set up for that weight. It's not the whack as you bottom out, it's the loss of control that happens as your overwhelmed suspension is racing through it's travel supporting your weight and can't do much to control the front wheel. 

It is NIGHT and DAY.  (and SOOOOO nice)   ;)

Edited by MindBlower

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