DRZ400S Future Mods

Hello, first time on here, have an 2001 DRZ400S, which I have upgraded the engine to E model specs with the FCR, A and B cams, E Header, 3x3 mod and side holes, E Muffler with drilled baffles, 13.5 piston with S base gasket (drop comp down a point), I feels more than 10hp more at least, I want to thank ThumperTalk for all the treads I have looked into for ideas, and youtube as well, bloody brilliant, I did a mild cleanup of the head while I was at it, unshrouded the valves heads in the chambers, new valves, cleaned up the bowls and tidied up the castings, also blocks the emissions probe hole in the exhaust port with 1200 degrees c liquid metal, and put new bolts into the inlet tract and flushed them of, the bike carburates brilliantly, getting rid of the auto decomp and installing the 190cca battery, the bike just bolts into life.

Now next year I want to import a 485cc kit from the states, either Ice Cube or Tudor's, are the 96mm bores problematic?, I don't want to machine anything inside the cases so 4mm stroke increase is my limit. Also is the 208 inlet cam available from RHC as per the 60hp DRZ, also where does the 39mm FCR stop in terms of power and is the SSW pipe virtually unlimited in its power potential, what about the stock rod, would a knife edge rod be the go? does the box cry enough at some point, undercut dogs? Don't want a Husky, KTM or Berg, I want a fast DRZ, and I want it to be one of the most powerful in New Zealand as a point of difference.

Also I have worked out a cheap solution for the early cam tensioner issue, its about a 10 cent fix and works very well, got a 2005 RMZ muffler which I will fit onto the e model header with a link pipe as a cheap short term solution as I feel the muffler is holding things back, will post a dyno print once the muffler is fitted later on, the bike went well before now it goes very well, Id say a bit harder than my old uncorked 2000 E model I sold 6 years ago and the bike and I are heavier. Cheers

Contact Eddie at Sisneros Speed Works...he can supply you all the good bits you need to get you your 60 hp....http://www.sisnerosspeedworks.com/

you want a 41 fcr for more hp on a stroker, the 39 just doesn't make the numbers..

Ice cube is good but be prepared to fork out big bucks for their kit...

While it's apart the Actman wide ratio gears would be something to look at..

Thanks, the Ice Cube 485 are about 1200 USD for the kit inc crank, at the moment, will be getting 1mm os RHC valves, springs and cams from Eddie and a SSW pipe, I don't know if any one in NZ can bore out my 39mm, are the Lectrons or Edelbrocks any good, or are they cheap for a reason, could you hook me up with the link for the gearbox?  , I tell you if Suzuki make a DRZ 500 with good suspenders, 6 speed box and injection they would not be able to make them fast enough, would take &%$#@! all for them to do it, two models dual purpose and SM, same power, different gearing and susp settings, that would be bliss. or one that does both like the 525 KTMs, a few of those were sold here in NZ.

Just fitted an OEM RMZ 450 muffler to the bike, and 2005 model I bought on the net for 80 bucks NZ, the mount positions line up perfectly, even the one to the rear foot peg hanger, cut the DRZ 400 e muffler pipe just behind the shock, shortened the RMZ muffler inlet pipe, the DRZ fits perfectly inside the RMZ one, no conflicts with anything, will get it welded up or joined somehow, might clamp it yet, bloody hell has it got a bark now, going to ride it tomorrow and will so if anything has changed, might have to make a little fitting (with arrester) for the back to shut it up for trails, cost so far in NZ Dollars $250 for a proper DRZ s/h FCR carb, $140 for A and B cams, $30 bucks for new manifold, about $400 for pistons, gaskets and valves, $80 for header, $80 for the muffler, nothing for labour, porting and tensioner mod and the bike feels as fast as it was with only half the throttle. Bit confused about hotcams, in all the forums the stage 2 have 0.377in lift and about 244 duration on both, yet all the stage 2 ones listed on ebay are 9.03 lift with 238 duration, and the stage ones listed are almost down on e cams, what gives, keen on a stage 2 inlet cam and that should do, has anyone got a stage 2 inlet cam with the higher specs lying round? This will be the last mod for the bike engine wise in its current form, will be putting on some nice CBR250 rims soon, just needs a couple of adjustments and they should be all sweet, this is the most fun Ive had on any bike, including my Fireblade. Cheers

Trying to chase the jetting at the moment, the RMZ muffler has opened things up to the point where the original 160m 45p 2 turn is way too lean, no air leaks, the idle is excellent but light throttle it feels a bit lean, full throttle and 3/4 feel the same and this is one a 170 main and almost 3 turns on the fuel screw, going to a 50pj next and a 175 main, the pipes for the overrun enrichener are linked, not blocked, the air box is full of holes (3x3 and side holes), I think kiwi fuel is substandard to everywhere else, has anyone else had to have the jetting this high? 170 mains were a common addition to piped e model with pipes apparently, what about my last hotcams question, why are the specs for stage 2 (on ebay listings) the same as the old stage ones talked about on TT, I want to upgrade the inlet cam, cheers

Final Jetting, 175 main, 50 pilot, std needle 5th clip, 2 turns fuel screw, removed overrun enrichener and linked the pipes, carburates beautifully everywhere, idles and starts like a boss with the big battery and removed decomp, hits the limiter no problem, next stop stage 2 hotcam inlet cam, check Ex cam timing, check clearances, full service, dyno it for a baseline and fueling check, and that will do until the stroker gets done, will put on road rims next then post a pic, cheers.

Final Jetting, 175 main, 50 pilot, std needle 5th clip, 2 turns fuel screw, removed overrun enrichener and linked the pipes, carburates beautifully everywhere, idles and starts like a boss with the big battery and removed decomp, hits the limiter no problem, next stop stage 2 hotcam inlet cam, check Ex cam timing, check clearances, full service, dyno it for a baseline and fueling check, and that will do until the stroker gets done, will put on road rims next then post a pic, cheers.

 

2001 DRZ 400S, 13.5 piston, std bore, A and B E cams, auto decomp removed, 190 cca battery, blueprinted head, FCR 39, E header, factory RMZ 450 muffler, very porous airbox, will be extensively modded late next year, w/r box, 485 kit 13.1 c/r, 41 fcr,a/m cdi, rhc o/s valve and cams, CBR 250 rims, upgraded susp and brakes, MRD SSW pipe, kick kit, stealthy standard look

 

so what carb do you end up using.???....slant fcr 39mm ? or Fcr 41 ....you have both in your signature

I obtained s/h early E model bits from a wrecker, a proper DRZ 39mm slant FCR, A and B cams, header etc, when the bike goes under the knife next year for the 485cc kit I will get the 41mm kit from SSW, resale on the E Model bits should be excellent I would think, spoke to a mechanic and the 170 main was a common mod for kiwi uncorked e models, due to the shite we call gas over here, so my 175m 50 pilot is no surprise, honestly it runs spot on, takes full throttle from next to no revs and hits the limiter no problem now, very happy, been a huge fiddle mind you, question, would you think the 9.03mm 238 dur inlet hotcam (std E 8.9mm 227 dur) would be a good match for my std E ex cam, (9.3mm and 243 dur), I saw in one of Eddies posts it worked well on a standard bore E, or is it not worth the effort. Thanks for your input

I obtained s/h early E model bits from a wrecker, a proper DRZ 39mm slant FCR, A and B cams, header etc, when the bike goes under the knife next year for the 485cc kit I will get the 41mm kit from SSW, resale on the E Model bits should be excellent I would think, spoke to a mechanic and the 170 main was a common mod for kiwi uncorked e models, due to the shite we call gas over here, so my 175m 50 pilot is no surprise, honestly it runs spot on, takes full throttle from next to no revs and hits the limiter no problem now, very happy, been a huge fiddle mind you, question, would you think the 9.03mm 238 dur inlet hotcam (std E 8.9mm 227 dur) would be a good match for my std E ex cam, (9.3mm and 243 dur), I saw in one of Eddies posts it worked well on a standard bore E, or is it not worth the effort. Thanks for your input

 

 

Normally a 160 main jet and 45 pilot jet would be the go with snorkel removed ....as you have a ,quote "very porous airbox"... the 175 may work for you...

 

If your after a better needle option , the OCEMN , clip 3 would be the go...., it's has a better performance profile than the stock OBDXP needle..

 

 Hotcams inlet and E exhaust cam will work fine on stock or big bore displacement....I am current using that configuration...but only expect minor gains..

Thanks heaps, will look into that needle cheers

Ok now I have tried the NCY-T needle, by god, it is awesome, throttle response is wicked and the top end feels like another gear, on 1st clip from top, had to go down in the main jet to a 168, 55 pilot seems ok, next experiment is getting a newly acquired E model B exhaust cam, and re-timing it into an inlet cam, 9.3mm lift, 244 duration, same cam ex and inlet, should be a good experiment, I will try the same lobe centre as the E model  A inlet cam and go from there. Cheers

E exhaust cam now an inlet cam, got clever with dial gauges and a press, about a 108 lobe centre, the bike runs better than before, fueling way better and bottom and top end are better still, revs like a mx bike, don't need any hotcams now, end of fiddling now, next stop dyno it and finish this bloody university degree off degree, cheers.

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