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New XR Owner Questions, Please help!

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Hey,

So I recenetly got a 1986 Honda XR250R. All I can say is I had quite a lot of work at the shop put into it and it is running amazing. I was so surprised.

Anyway. So what gas would you guys recommend putting in it? I was planning on 91. Also how long can that sit? It wont be always staying at my house so I was curious if I were to leave it for 2 or 3 weeks without touching it if that will be fine or if I should drain it.

Also, is it true that after riding I should turn the fuel off and run it until it dies? That's what I was told but I never knew if it was actually true.

What oil would you guys recommend I use in the bike?
Last question, total noob question, there is almost like a little cap at the end of the exhaust. What is that? Am I supposed to leave that on? I mean it's on there tight. I haven't have a good look at it so I cant describe it too well, but Im pretty sure ive seen other bikes with something like it. But of course it's better to be safe then sorry.

 

Thanks to all of you who help.

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The gas will be fine my dads xr350 sits for a year at a time and starts third kick and runs great

You don't need to run it out of gas.

I use 10w40 castrol

That cap is a baffle and makes the bike quieter I took mine out

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Better still, keep the fuel in your tank treated with StaBil.

 

If you keep the fuel treated, no need to run it dry, but def always shut off the petcock.

 

I doubt it needs 91 octane. The most modern XRs I think only ran as high as 9.5:1 comp ratios stock. Surely an '86 machine isn't higher than that and may be lower.

Edited by Trailryder42

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Good advice above.

Turn off the gas after every ride.   Sometimes the float valve will stick.

The new California ethanol mix kills carbs quickly.   I have gone decades without ever using Stabil or draining the carbs.   I do use it now.

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Which Oil will start wars.   Much like religion.

 

20-50, unless it is really cold, like Truckee in the winter.   Then 10-40.

 

Dwight Rudder said to stay away from Castrol GTX, so I have.

 

You can't go wrong with a motorcycle specific oil, though you will spend more money.

Of the CAR oils,  Mobil1  15-50, and Rotella 15-40 are what I have been using.

If you switch to either, I would do a first oil change earlier.    They both are good at "floating" up existing sludge in the motor.  Think of it as a cleaning out of the motor.

Edited by Kev_XR

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We do not run carb dry to park bike,for storage.We have had lots of problems with float valve tip.We leave gas on all the time.Also good to use stabil.When we cant get it we use two stroke oil.10/40 for real cold temp,we use 20/50 year round.BTR

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I never turn the gas off.  Don't want the carb to go dry...  and dry out.  Never had a problem.  I do add Sta-Bil over the winter.  You can turn the screw on the bottom of the carb to drain the old gas out of the bowl if it has sat for a long time.  That can make it start easier. 

 

I always run 91-93 octane, as these are air cooled engines...  which run hotter than water cooled.  Higher temperature promotes detonation.  It's good insurance.  Plus, these tanks hold 2 gallons.  Premium is $0.20 more per gallon that regular, so that's only $0.40 for difference for a full tank. 

 

I like Mobil 1 15w50.  Synthetic oil is more resistant to heat than conventional.  Air cooled engines can cook oil, so synthetic is a no brainer...  especially since these only hold 2 quarts.  Plus, synthetic doesn't thicken up as much when it is cooled, so a heavier synthetic will flow much better at room temp than conventional of the same weight.  You get the best of both worlds.  I run Mobil 1 15w50 in all of my air cooled engines, as well as in the mustang in my signature. 

 

Good Luck!

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Plus, synthetic doesn't thicken up as much when it is cooled, so a heavier synthetic will flow much better at room temp than conventional of the same weight.  You get the best of both worlds.  I run Mobil 1 15w50 in all of my air cooled engines, as well as in the mustang in my signature. 

 

 

 

Will the XR consume less synthetic oil then mineral oil?

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Also, is it true that after riding I should turn the fuel off and run it until it dies? 

 

This doesn't completely drain the carb.  Either drain the bowl with the screw or leave the petcock on with fuel stabilizer.  BTR brought up a good point about the rubber tip on the float needle drying out.  

 

20W-50 is the recommended oil above freezing.  Conventional Castrol 20w-50 didn't last very long in my engine.  Now I'm running M1 15w-50 but there are better oils like Redline and Motul.  These engines are hard on oil.

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I never turn the gas off.  Don't want the carb to go dry...  and dry out.  Never had a problem.  I do add Sta-Bil over the winter.  You can turn the screw on the bottom of the carb to drain the old gas out of the bowl if it has sat for a long time.  That can make it start easier. 

 

 

 

So for Sta-Bil would you recommend the storage or just the normal fuel protection?

Thank you!

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So for Sta-Bil would you recommend the storage or just the normal fuel protection?

Thank you!

 

 

Depends upon storage conditions.

 

If it stored in a hot, 100 degree environment, then the gas will go stale faster, as all the 'lights' will evaporate out of the mix more quickly.  If it's stored in a nice, cool dark place, then the fuel might last for months.  Heat and sunlight will bake the lights (easily evaporating) components out of the fuel at a fairly rapid pace...  so try and keep the bike in a cool, shady place. 

The sun and heat will also bake the plastic/rubber, causing it do discolor, break down and crack. 

 

If you keep your bike stored in a dark, air conditioned basement, it will look good almost forever, and will have far fewer issues than those kept in the sun/heat/rain/humidity.  Same goes for fuel stored in jugs.  Keep it in a sealed, NON vented container in a cool, dark place...  and it will have an almost indefinite shelf life. 

 

Good Luck!

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