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What is the best way to improve ttr 230 throttle response without spending alot of money?

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well you are not going to make it into a 150r

 

jets, air box - $20

 

Add fmf pipe - $100ish

 

that will help...

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Do the 38 pilot and 130 main, then get a carb needle washer and add it under your needle c-clip, its a 200% difference. You don't necessarily have to do the needle shim because it is a B**T**D if your not real good with your mechanical skills. The part numbers to give to your local Yamaha dealership to order is,  288-14343-6500 for the 130 main jet and 43f-14342-19 for the 38 pilot. Stock jets are 36/125. I just did this to my bike Thursday night and one word "WOW" what a difference. You don't need to cut and destroy the top of the airbox, simply remove the snorkel and remove the bolt in baffle in the back of your tail pipe and pull it out. You will be very happy you did this.

Edited by clint eastwood
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Do the 38 pilot and 130 main, then get a carb needle washer and add it under your needle c-clip, its a 200% difference. You don't necessarily have to do the needle shim because it is a B**T**D if your not real good with your mechanical skills. The part numbers to give to your local Yamaha dealership to order is,  288-14343-6500 for the 130 main jet and 43f-14342-19 for the 38 pilot. Stock jets are 36/125. I just did this to my bike Thursday night and one word "WOW" what a difference. You don't need to cut and destroy the top of the airbox, simply remove the snorkel and remove the bolt in baffle in the back of your tail pipe and pull it out. You will be very happy you did this.

 

I did the exact same thing on my CRF230F and it really brought the bike to life. Installed the Power Up carb kit, pulled the snorkel out of the air box, and removed the spark arrestor from the BBR pipe. Runs like a completely different bike.. 

 

You will be surprised how much difference this makes on the 230. 

 

JL

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Do the 38 pilot and 130 main, then get a carb needle washer and add it under your needle c-clip, its a 200% difference. You don't necessarily have to do the needle shim because it is a B**T**D if your not real good with your mechanical skills. The part numbers to give to your local Yamaha dealership to order is,  288-14343-6500 for the 130 main jet and 43f-14342-19 for the 38 pilot. Stock jets are 36/125. I just did this to my bike Thursday night and one word "WOW" what a difference. You don't need to cut and destroy the top of the airbox, simply remove the snorkel and remove the bolt in baffle in the back of your tail pipe and pull it out. You will be very happy you did this.

Thanks a lot! I'm going to order the jets sometime this week. I'll let everyone know how it went

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Did you guys remove the back fire screen in the air box as well? I know it goes in just as easy as it comes out but I'm on the fence about trying this.

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I removed it because it will slightly help with air flow matching the new richer jetting, would be fine though with or without.

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on the fire screen.

 

do you NEED it....

 

if you ride a state park they will look for it.

 

if you ride out where it is dry you will need it.

 

I mean it is there for a reason :-)

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I did the 38 pilot, 130 main, but left the snorkel on the airbox because I ride in very wet conditions (deep puddles, lots of them), and left the baffle in the muffler because I (and the rest of the known world) hate loud bikes...The bike runs great, climbs like a monkey on meth, and does not need more motor: it does, however, need better suspension to better handle the rooty, rocky singletrack we have here at a quick trail pace.

If you compare the size of the opening in the snorkel to the venturi of the carb you will doubt the need for removing it.

If you compare the fatigue factor between baffle/no baffle over a long hard trailride you will also doubt the need for removing it...

    just sayin'

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I did put my baffle back this weekend after riding for about 3 hours last weekend without it I had pretty much tired of the noise. Did 5 hours this weekend and I noticed a difference when I was done. Yes the suspension needs to be improved but can really be done to the front forks? I contacted Works in California about replacing the rear and they of course said their high end, 19402 different adjustment shock for $799 was the way to go. I think they have a less expensive option. 

 

I do love this bike as I get better/faster I noticed especially today that when I rode it harder the suspension worked better. We have very rocky/rooty terrain out here as well and I would love a better fork!

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