upgrade time ! ;-D

ok zeds! good news!

its only piston, cylinder and rod damage...  XD  crank is ok  D-:


ok so these are the plans.


plan 1
im thinking of ordering the bb kit from fleabay.  check it out here

and i found 2 conrods from germany's fleabay  check it out here and here which one is better?

<<newb question comming up>>  can you replace the con rod from the oem crank ? 

if not then we go to plan 2

plan 2
for an extra 200 euros i can buy this

what else is needed to get it back on the road for commuting?

plan 3
i have roughly 950 dollars worth of money to invest (not including labor) what is the best way to invest them???)

you think it would be a good idea to go for this? if you say yes then i can maybe borrow the extra 300 dollars from a buddy of mine to buy the kit.


i want your thoughts please

i will have to run the bike with stock carbs and exhaust for a short time if i go for plan 2 and 3 cause ill be short on money XD.

in about 2-3 months ill have enough money to go for a mrd ssw and a fcr carb.

i just need the bike to commute to work for the time being. (so im not concerned if the stock carb+pipe hinders my performance.)

plus i wont ride it that much cause im moving to england for uni in a month. (so theres a chance i might not even be there to ride the damn thing by the time its fixed)

Thats all for now... any suggestions / ideas are welcome!

Edited by N8NT45

Cylinder works and hot rod are proven products so they should be a good purchase . You will have to get the new con rod repressed onto the crank which unless you have the capability to do it yourself , means extra costs . Splitting the cases needs a specific puller and is involved , but doable if you know how , there are a few threads on here , where guys have made there own pully and done it themselves . But you might be better off giving the bottom end to someone like eddie . If you use a stroker there is a lot of hidden costs . You have to change your cams as you will start blowing head gaskets and I dont think I would like to run the std two piece valves in it also , so I know I would be changing the valves for a set of one piece valves from ron hamp . Then you have the fact that unless you have an FCR 41mm , MRD exhaust , cams and valves , it just wont run as good as it could , greg

Cylinder works and hot rod are proven products so they should be a good purchase . You will have to get the new con rod repressed onto the crank which unless you have the capability to do it yourself , means extra costs . Splitting the cases needs a specific puller and is involved , but doable if you know how , there are a few threads on here , where guys have made there own pully and done it themselves . But you might be better off giving the bottom end to someone like eddie . If you use a stroker there is a lot of hidden costs . You have to change your cams as you will start blowing head gaskets and I dont think I would like to run the std two piece valves in it also , so I know I would be changing the valves for a set of one piece valves from ron hamp . Then you have the fact that unless you have an FCR 41mm , MRD exhaust , cams and valves , it just wont run as good as it could , greg

thanks for the reply...

im leaning more towards the std big bore + rod and keep the bike like that.

ive had some pms already about the stroker and i think its not worth it for my needs.

40-45ish hp should be more than enough for my needs right now.

i suppose those figures are easily doable fith a  big bore, pipe ,carb....

 

Edited by N8NT45

So is a new connecting rod necessary for the 434 big bore? I was under the impression you could just buy the kit and be ok

So is a new connecting rod necessary for the 434 big bore? I was under the impression you could just buy the kit and be ok

i have a bust conrod....otherwise i would just use the stocker.........

guys whats your oppinion on the yoshi cams? my mechanic has a set new in their box for a very very sweet price XD

You will be very happy with just the big bore , it makes a very noticeable difference and the bike will seem like it has a much more powerfull motor . When you do it , make the decision to split the base gasket or not . If you do it , it will bump the compression and you will/may have to use higher octane gas . Add some hot or E cams , an FCR/MX 39mm and an MRD exhaust then you will have the 50hp package . These things you can do as you can afford it , but if you dont do it now ( split the base gasket ) you will have to pull the whole top end to do it later , greg

So is a new connecting rod necessary for the 434 big bore? I was under the impression you could just buy the kit and be ok

 Zeeno , if you have a good condition low mile bottom end , it is just a straight swap . If your bike has high , hard miles then it could be a good idea as the bottom end may fail due to the extra load , greg

You will be very happy with just the big bore , it makes a very noticeable difference and the bike will seem like it has a much more powerfull motor . When you do it , make the decision to split the base gasket or not . If you do it , it will bump the compression and you will/may have to use higher octane gas . Add some hot or E cams , an FCR/MX 39mm and an MRD exhaust then you will have the 50hp package . These things you can do as you can afford it , but if you dont do it now ( split the base gasket ) you will have to pull the whole top end to do it later , greg

in europe standard pump gas is 95 octane...

i think its lower in the states if im not mistaken...

in europe standard pump gas is 95 octane...

i think its lower in the states if im not mistaken...

 

Different standards for measuring octane, generally in Europe the octane displayed on the pumps is RON and in the US its AKI (the average of RON and MON).  95 octane (RON) is similar to 91 (AKI) in the US, which is considered premium (91-93 octane AKI).  I only run 87 (AKI or ~91-92 RON) in my DRZ400S and I believe the DRZ400E (higher compression, single layer cylinder base gasket vs. 3 layer) requires 91 (AKI or 95 RON).

Different standards for measuring octane, generally in Europe the octane displayed on the pumps is RON and in the US its AKI (the average of RON and MON).  95 octane (RON) is similar to 91 (AKI) in the US, which is considered premium (91-93 octane AKI).  I only run 87 (AKI or ~91-92 RON) in my DRZ400S and I believe the DRZ400E (higher compression, single layer cylinder base gasket vs. 3 layer) requires 91 (AKI or 95 RON).

haha. our "good" gas is 91. and i think its allowed up to 10% ethanol...

when is earth going to use a unified system to measure things???

aliens must be looking at us laughing their asses out.... "look at those monkeys. they cant even measure a distance without converting"

thanks for the info. i always thought they use lower quality across the pond...

i have a bust conrod....otherwise i would just use the stocker.........

guys whats your oppinion on the yoshi cams? my mechanic has a set new in their box for a very very sweet price XD

Yoshi cams are really expensive, but really good. Last I saw they were in the $500 range, so let your wallet be your guide.

haha. our "good" gas is 91. and i think its allowed up to 10% ethanol...

 

Yea we (CT) have 93-94 at some stations (Shell & Sunoco come to mind), but we have the same problem with ethanol... well, other than getting crappier MPG I haven't had any issues with ethanol personally.

when is earth going to use a unified system to measure things???

aliens must be looking at us laughing their asses out.... "look at those monkeys. they cant even measure a distance without converting"

thanks for the info. i always thought they use lower quality across the pond...

i like the whole meter system.100 of one makes 1 of the next bigger one. makes sense. how many ounces in a gallon? 

how many ounces in a gallon? 

 

go figure out XD

128

Cat really likes to mix up the metric and sae. Seems like I have to get out the conversion app every other day at work. I'm all for the metric system.

plan 3

i have roughly 950 dollars worth of money to invest (not including labor) what is the best way to invest them???)

you think it would be a good idea to go for this? if you say yes then i can maybe borrow the extra 300 dollars from a buddy of mine to buy the kit.

 

 

I would stay away from that kit. Kibblewhite valves are garbage for the DRZ, and running HotCams with a stroker motor is asking for trouble.

I would stay away from that kit. Kibblewhite valves are garbage for the DRZ, and running HotCams with a stroker motor is asking for trouble.

final decision is made...

going for the 50hp package

big bore

carb

exhaust

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