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125 sx piston rings break in

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Start it let it idle and get up to operating temp, shut it off let it cool back down.

Do the above a second time.

Take it out and go easy on it for an hour or two.

Ride it like you stole it.

Yep, and I do the cycling three times.

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mineral oil,  why? because any blow by from a unseated new ring that might occur can form a more tenacious glaze or film on the bore with some (not all) synthetic base oils.  No reason to chance it.

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mineral oil,  why? because any blow by from a unseated new ring that might occur can form a more tenacious glaze or film on the bore with some (not all) synthetic base oils.  No reason to chance it.

I personally always use mineral oil, castor 927, smells good, works good, is good! :)

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three heat cycles..i always check head and cylinder bolts after the heat cycles.

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Whenever I did mine, I let it idle for 10 minutes, let it cool down. Let it idle a bit to warm up when I got to the track and cruised around on it slow for about 10 minutes than just went at it.

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let it idle for 10 minutes no hard blipping. turn off check leakes. then warm up, ride low until its fully warmed up.

 

LOAD the bike. that means high gear starting at low speed and let it roll BEFORE power band. then slow down shift to 3-4-5 at low RPM and roll. this will push the rings outwards.

 

use MINERAL oil. use 28-32:1

Edited by hardhitwarrior
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Hi all !  Can someone explain what exactly " heat cycles " are supposed to do ? Metal is heat treated to up to 1500 - 2000 deg . How is getting an engine to 200 deg heat treat it ? Get the bike up to proper temp and just ride it , you only get about 20 min to seat the rings  . Make the best out of that 20 min.

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Hi all ! Can someone explain what exactly " heat cycles " are supposed to do ? Metal is heat treated to up to 1500 - 2000 deg . How is getting an engine to 200 deg heat treat it ? Get the bike up to proper temp and just ride it , you only get about 20 min to seat the rings . Make the best out of that 20 min.

what do mean by make the best out of those 20 mins ? Ride it hard?

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The heat cycles are for helping the rings seal/seat properly. It also gives you a chance to make sure your coolant level is OK and make sure the motor runs properly before ragging it on the track.

A full heat-up, cool-down cycle will let you know if things were done right. If you start the bike and go ride it, you may not have any clue something is wrong until its too late. A lot of times, things don't fail right away, they will fail at high temps, right when you don't want them to.

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i dont think heat cycles (notice the "s") are necessary. one check is all you need. where would the coolant go if its not puking from the outside and that your exhaust is not sweet smelling and not overly smokey? not much can go wrong when you rebuild it aslong as you rebuilt it WELL and in FULL detail. no cutting corners. that means double, triple quadriple check each stages of the installation.

 

i never even have to re-torque my last rebuild because iv tried to re-torqued my previous builds over and over after very ride on break ins but was correct speced.. and i checked it multiple times. so my last rebuild i didnt re-torque. 6 hours on the bike and it hasnt a single problem.

 

what the guy on the "20 minute" break in was that it doesnt take long for the rings to break in thats why you need to break them in methodically.

 

its just what iv said above. warm up, off, warm up, go for soft ride then over load. d o the loading 20-30 times then saddle her up real good.

 

almost forgot, wiseco actually said that no need to heat cycle their pistons, it been heat-treated from manufacturing already. something like that.

Edited by hardhitwarrior
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Hi all ! The way the crosshatching on the cylinders are today( fine instead of coarse) there is not much of a window to seat the rings . Get it fully warmed up and just ride , your engine will thank you with less blowby and more power . Pussyfooting around with it is the worst thing you can do IMHO .

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You are partly right. You can ride it as is jut you still need to overload the motor to push out the rings as much as possible.

The biggest enemy of seating new rings is heat. Dont over heat the motor when seating rings and breaking i the piston or youll scuff it seize.

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Last month when I bought my new off the showroom '13 300XC I let it come up to temp idling shut it down let it cool. Did that one more time and then took it out and just rode it. I didn't wring its guts out on the first ride but I was definitely on the pipe. After that ride I changed the oil and started giving her hell after that. Right or wrong that's how I've always broke in my 2 stroke motors for the past 34 years of riding. I've never seized a piston, never lost a bottom end. So the method can't be all that bad for them.

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Last month when I bought my new off the showroom '13 300XC I let it come up to temp idling shut it down let it cool. Did that one more time and then took it out and just rode it.

 

 

what did you accomplish if you dont mind me askin ?  :lol:

 

i have to give you some credit. atleast it wasnt 9 heat cycles like alot of guys

 

a few minutes of heat cycles isnt breakin in anything but some poeple cant come to terms with that 

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what did you accomplish if you dont mind me askin ? :lol:

i have to give you some credit. atleast it wasnt 9 heat cycles like alot of guys

a few minutes of heat cycles isnt breakin in anything but some poeple cant come to terms with that

What credentials do you have that deem you an expert in engine break in if ya don't mind me askin?

Being born in 1990 and all you've obviously got years upon years of experience. Or you just going by what daddy told ya?

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the bore is round and ring is round so what are you breaking in ? why not break the bearings in aswell. clutch plates dont need broke in ?   go ahead do your heat cycles if it makes ya feel better

Edited by harryhandshake

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When I did my 125sx top end about a month ago, I let it idle for about 10 minutes, let it sat overnight, let it idle random times (Not that I wanted to I was having trouble with carb leaking fuel). After I got everything fixed I just took it to the track. Let it idle about 5 minutes at the track, Rode it slow about 5 minutes, Than just got on it and rode it normal

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