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capacitor installation-do I need to keep fuse

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Bike is an 02 S model, which has been converted into a psuedo kicker.  Everything, and I mean everything, relating to electric start has been stripped off.  Wiring harness has been completely stripped of everything.  The only thing I am running is a headlight and a tail/brake light.  My battery has been pretty dead for about a year now, but no big deal since it's a kicker. 

 

I finally got around to buying a capacitor from mouser.com to shed the weight of the battery.  My fuse has been blown for over a year now, but it's no big deal since I've never done the free power mod.  My question is-when I install the capacitor can I just get ride of the fuse?  I haven't blown any bulbs in the last year and I'm not planning on ever wiring anything else into the bike.  Any good reason to keep it?   

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If the fuse is blown, then your lights won't function... so unless you bypassed the fuse you need it. Otherwise risk melted wires/harnesses and/or fire.

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The fuse only protected the bike from the battery. The capcitor has no where near the same level of amperage. So yes, you could get rid of the fuse. If I were you, I;d remove the connector at the reg/rect to the harness. Crimp or solder the wires and I'd put a fuse there. But it is not required, the stator puts out less than 17 amps. Your fuse was 20

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Yeah the lights have functioned fine for over a year now with a blown fuse, so I knew the fuse had nothing to do with the lights or the bike starting.

William, thanks for the input. I will just get rid of the fuse altogether.

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The fuse only protected the bike from the battery. The capcitor has no where near the same level of amperage. So yes, you could get rid of the fuse. If I were you, I;d remove the connector at the reg/rect to the harness. Crimp or solder the wires and I'd put a fuse there. But it is not required, the stator puts out less than 17 amps. Your fuse was 20

 

I didn't realize the stator output was that low... but looking at the schematic, if the fuse was blown the lights (at least till the engine starts) and e-starter wouldn't work, right?

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If the fuse is blown, the e-start will not work nor the lights. I do beleive the bike can be bump started and run. The fuse just protects the wiring from the high capacity of the battery.

 

Or kick started and still run, as it has for a long time now. My current wiring harness looks nothing like an S diagram-more like an E, but even less wires than an E. I have no ignition on mine, just an aftermarket bar mounted on/off switch.

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Not running a capcitor, you are lucky to of not blown any light bulbs. As good a job as the R/R does, it is still not capable of smoothing suddent changes. Get the biggest cap you can. Keep in mind at low rpm, output voltage drops but draw remains the same, so the amperage draw goes up. That can be tough on the wiring.

Volts X Amps = Watts

Less volts means you need more amps to get to the same wattage.

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Sorry to rehash this older thread but it was easier than restating how my bike is set up.  My question is-I just installed an  Edge 2 tail light.  I didn't really think about it at the time, but since it's LED am I more prone to blowing out the lights on this thing?  I still have never blown a headlight bulb or a tail light bulb on the stock tail light. 

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