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Twisting carb to rejet

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Alright, I've trwisted lots of carbs to rejet.  Can't seem to find the right moves on this 250X.  What am I doing wrong?

 

Loosened the throttle cables and hotstart at the bars.  Loosened front and rear clamp screws.  I get about 15 degrees CW rotation (looking towards the front) and that's it.

 

I could probably get to the bowl screws if I really had to and was creative with tools, but it should be easier.  

 

What am I missing?

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Thats about all youre gonna get. Take the screw off the bottom of the bowl and you should be able to get to both the pilot and the main jets. No need to remove the bowl unless your changing the leak jet or swapping out the fuel screw.

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I've got a dial-a-jet to install.  For $10 more than a regular aftermarket fuel screw I decided to splurge and keep my fingers away from hot stuff for once.  I was also hoping to replace the bowl screws with allen heads cause the stock screws are made of toilet paper and spit.  Looks like I can live with the stock screws afterall.

 

I still think I can get it if I work hard enough.  Just thought I was missing something.

 

Thanks for the help guys.

Edited by dukesilver

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Not saying it can't be done but trying to remove the bowl with the carb still attached will be more of a PITA than just taking the carb off.  Also, if you don't get a good grip on those soft phillips bowl screws, they will easily strip.  I tried to install my Quickshot 3 without removing the carb and after a few choice words, ended up removing it.  Now, if you're only changing the main and/or pilot jets, then removing the carb is not necessary.

Edited by jdoc7

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I think I can get the fuelscrew as well without removing the bowl.  Looks like I need to disconnect a groundwire right in front of the starter for a lil more clearance.

 

Once it's rejetted at 152 main I'll cut the airbox.  I'm going with the minimal cut - inside the snorkel only.   I'd like to be able to easily go back to stock if I want to.  By my calculation just removing the rubber top and innards of the snorkel alone gives me 3.5 times the airflow of stock.  Plus having the lip around the snorkel top makes it easy to add a homemade pantyhose filter over the top with a rubber band.

 

Thanks all for the help.

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I think I can get the fuelscrew as well without removing the bowl.  Looks like I need to disconnect a groundwire right in front of the starter for a lil more clearance.

 

Once it's rejetted at 152 main I'll cut the airbox.  I'm going with the minimal cut - inside the snorkel only.   I'd like to be able to easily go back to stock if I want to.  By my calculation just removing the rubber top and innards of the snorkel alone gives me 3.5 times the airflow of stock.  Plus having the lip around the snorkel top makes it easy to add a homemade pantyhose filter over the top with a rubber band.

 

Thanks all for the help.

Dukesilver, I'd just bite the bullet and remove the carb. I know, I know, its a P.I.T.A. but if this is a new bike to you, you can accomplish several things by doing so. First, you will learn how everything is routed, bolted ... Second, you can tear down the carb and make sure everything is clear and clean and the seals, diaphram and other parts are in correct working order. 3rd, since you will have the shock off its a good time to check all the linkage bearings and service the shock.

Sure its alot more time and work, but you will gain a ton of knowledge about your bike and be reassured that its in good working order when you go out on those deep woods rides that you dont want to break down on.

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Yeah, it's coming off.  I was able to remove the mainjet (130 as promised) but was unable to put the 152 back in it's place and couldn't get the fuelscrew out (maybe the tin cover is still in place).

 

I have a new (used) 250R shock spring to go on anyway, so might as well make it a party.

 

I was just trying to be lazy because I've got some broken ribs and trying to minimize the movements.

 

Looking up directions for removing the subframe as we speak.

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