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Does anyone make a 37 or 38 tooth rear sprocket?

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Title says it all, I'm looking for a 37 or 38 tooth rear sprocket for my 06 400SM.

Does anyone know a dealer that sells them in steel?

Thanks

Ron W.

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I only know of a 39 tooth for the factory SM. Without having one custom made that is.

 

Guess that's one advantage to the Warp 9 wheels, as I'm running a 38 on those.

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Title says it all, I'm looking for a 37 or 38 tooth rear sprocket for my 06 400SM.

Does anyone know a dealer that sells them in steel?

Thanks

Ron W.

A  37Tooth will probably make your chain dig into your swingarm. We have 38T by Sunstar and Vortex. Also, have 39T JT Racing in black, 39T Sunstar in silver. Other sizes we usually have in stock are : 40T,41T thru 47T.  

https://www.wheelingcyclesupply.com/shop/category/sprockets/199

 

Fg

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How many miles has the front cog and chain done..?

Bike has 9000 on it, changed front to 16 tooth @ 2k and went to X o-ring chain @ 3k.

But I never go off road and I'm scrupulous about keeping the chain clean and maintaining proper tension.

If I see some odd wear or noises I'll change them out as well.....

Ron W.

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Bike has 9000 on it, changed front to 16 tooth @ 2k and went to X o-ring chain @ 3k.

But I never go off road and I'm scrupulous about keeping the chain clean and maintaining proper tension.

If I see some odd wear or noises I'll change them out as well.....

Ron W.

 

 

I would compare the teeth on the 16t with the stock 15t to check for wear, could be worthwhile to install another front...

 

have you done any engine mods or fitted a pipe,? the 16/39 is going to create some big gaps between gears....

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I would compare the teeth on the 16t with the stock 15t to check for wear, could be worthwhile to install another front...

 

have you done any engine mods or fitted a pipe,? the 16/39 is going to create some big gaps between gears....

I know what your saying, but I never go off road strictly highway 50-65 mph, last year or so averaging 125 miles a week

Did the 3x3 and full rejet on the Mikuni I'm really happy with the throttle response from 1/4 to full throttle, pulls strong and gets 65 plus mpg. I would not even think of going FCR.

Also running full FMF power bomb header and muffler.

Thanks for the feedback, appreciate it.

Ron W.

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Did the 3x3 and full rejet on the Mikuni I'm really happy with the throttle response from 1/4 to full throttle, pulls strong and gets 65 plus mpg. I would not even think of going FCR.

 

I was pretty happy with a jetted Mikuni too, until I got a FCR. The throttle response is night and day different. I picked up the Suduco kit from Wheeling Cycle Supply, for less than any other FCR kit I cam across. The Suduco kit isn't the MX style, just the regular slant body FCR, which means it doesn't have all the hoses every where, and doesn't need any addtional vacuum nipples. It's also much easier to get in and out of the bike.

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I was pretty happy with a jetted Mikuni too, until I got a FCR. The throttle response is night and day different. I picked up the Suduco kit from Wheeling Cycle Supply, for less than any other FCR kit I cam across. The Suduco kit isn't the MX style, just the regular slant body FCR, which means it doesn't have all the hoses every where, and doesn't need any addtional vacuum nipples. It's also much easier to get in and out of the bike.

I'm sure it's a better performer but didn't you lose some mpg's?

I'm enamored with the mileage I'm getting, I know I'm strange :-)

Ron W.

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I know what your saying, but I never go off road strictly highway 50-65 mph, last year or so averaging 125 miles a week

Did the 3x3 and full rejet on the Mikuni I'm really happy with the throttle response from 1/4 to full throttle, pulls strong and gets 65 plus mpg. I would not even think of going FCR.

Also running full FMF power bomb header and muffler.

Thanks for the feedback, appreciate it.

Ron W.

 

you may want to think about going Big Bore in the future to give that engine a substantial overall power increase,...especially the torque..

you can still run the stock carb with BB

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you may want to think about going Big Bore in the future to give that engine a substantial overall power increase,...especially the torque..

you can still run the stock carb with BB

That's an interesting idea, what can I expect when it comes to power if I go that route?

I have never dug that deep into the engine but I think I have the capability to split the case, I have the shop manual and I read it a few times so I'm an expert:-)

What brand big bore kit do you recommend.

Thanks

Ron W.

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That's an interesting idea, what can I expect when it comes to power if I go that route?

I have never dug that deep into the engine but I think I have the capability to split the case, I have the shop manual and I read it a few times so I'm an expert:-)

What brand big bore kit do you recommend.

Thanks

Ron W.

 

Big bore kits do not require splitting the case, they are bolt on. Most will recommend Cylinder Works.

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That's an interesting idea, what can I expect when it comes to power if I go that route?

I have never dug that deep into the engine but I think I have the capability to split the case, I have the shop manual and I read it a few times so I'm an expert:-)

What brand big bore kit do you recommend.

Thanks

Ron W.

 

 around 3 to 4 hp

More grunt with help cover the larger gaps created with taller gearing..

fuel efficiency will be similar because you will find that your not revving the engine as hard to produce the same power ...

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